Sticking brakes - where/how to fix?
Discussion
So after a year of putting it off I've accepted that my brakes need fixing... when the car doesn't roll back on an incline is a good sign that something is wrong.
As I understand, there are two ways to fix:
1) Strip calipers, clean and re-seal with new seals and rubber bits
2) Buy new caliper units and fit the entire unit
I would do it myself but given that it took me 4 days to change brake pads/discs, I won't have time to get round to it in the next few months.
Any ideas which one is preferable (obviously (1) will be cheaper) and where to get it done from? I'm dreading a £250+ repair bill so any tips on the most cost effective way of fixing would be appreciated.
Cheers.
As I understand, there are two ways to fix:
1) Strip calipers, clean and re-seal with new seals and rubber bits
2) Buy new caliper units and fit the entire unit
I would do it myself but given that it took me 4 days to change brake pads/discs, I won't have time to get round to it in the next few months.
Any ideas which one is preferable (obviously (1) will be cheaper) and where to get it done from? I'm dreading a £250+ repair bill so any tips on the most cost effective way of fixing would be appreciated.
Cheers.
I have done both ways and the stripping and rebuilding is suprisingly labour intensive. I would also reccomend buying new pistons and slide pins. Also the results can be variable somestimes they stick again which always pisses me off as its a lot of work to waste. Normally takes me 4 hours per side, 8 if you are doing for first time.
I personally far prefer to replace the entire with a rebuilt unit, your local motor factors should have details of where to buy. Replacing the caliper is normally a doddle, 2 bolts and the brake line then swap and bleed. If you decide not to do it yourself the labour should be no more than an hour. Cheapest and best people are normally the marque specific indy garages.
I personally far prefer to replace the entire with a rebuilt unit, your local motor factors should have details of where to buy. Replacing the caliper is normally a doddle, 2 bolts and the brake line then swap and bleed. If you decide not to do it yourself the labour should be no more than an hour. Cheapest and best people are normally the marque specific indy garages.
Odd twist... I jacked up each wheel to check as MJK suggested. And each wheel turned fine...
So it's either an intermittent problem (quite likely as I've noticed that sometimes the car does roll downhill) or there is another cause of it not rolling on hills. (Yes I have checked it's not an automatic
)
If sticking brakes aren't the cause, what else might be?
So it's either an intermittent problem (quite likely as I've noticed that sometimes the car does roll downhill) or there is another cause of it not rolling on hills. (Yes I have checked it's not an automatic
)If sticking brakes aren't the cause, what else might be?
They wouldn't necessarily always stick, temperature and other things may be a factor.
A Panda i had at uni had intermittent sticky front calipers, the university fix for this was get out and boot the front wheels, not ideal but beer token maximization was of primary concern at the time.
Have you taken the brakes apart yet to have a look at them, I assume its discs if you are talking about calipers, might be slaves or flexi's that are at issue. I take it you have checked the fluid level and its not leaking. A good service might fix the problem for minimum outlay.
A Panda i had at uni had intermittent sticky front calipers, the university fix for this was get out and boot the front wheels, not ideal but beer token maximization was of primary concern at the time.
Have you taken the brakes apart yet to have a look at them, I assume its discs if you are talking about calipers, might be slaves or flexi's that are at issue. I take it you have checked the fluid level and its not leaking. A good service might fix the problem for minimum outlay.
Go for a drive and use the brakes a bit. When you stop feel the centre of the wheels for temperature - what you're looking for is the one of an axle pair (front or back) which is hotter than the other one.
If it's only sticking a bit you can sometimes free it up for a while by pushing the piston in and out a few times. Of course this could also have the effect of sawing through the o-ring seal using a lump of rusty piston
I've rebuilt all the calipers on my 1992 MX5 over the years and it took maybe an hour to do the last one. The tricky bit was getting the dust boot to fit in the caliper and over the piston - one of the rears was frustratingly difficult.
I'm currently having issues with the handbrake - the cable to the left rear caliper is jammed. Mostly off, but it could jam on too. It needs a new cable, and I'll probably do the other side at the same time.
If it's only sticking a bit you can sometimes free it up for a while by pushing the piston in and out a few times. Of course this could also have the effect of sawing through the o-ring seal using a lump of rusty piston
I've rebuilt all the calipers on my 1992 MX5 over the years and it took maybe an hour to do the last one. The tricky bit was getting the dust boot to fit in the caliper and over the piston - one of the rears was frustratingly difficult.
I'm currently having issues with the handbrake - the cable to the left rear caliper is jammed. Mostly off, but it could jam on too. It needs a new cable, and I'll probably do the other side at the same time.
I had a similar intermittent brake issue on my corsa; the back left drum would stick every time the handbrake was applied and would either need pedal stomping or handbrake yanking to get the desired 'thud' and release.
Had rear brakes stripped twice and it was the same each time after as soon as I parked up! Nearly killed me on an island too as the brake fluid boiled from the rubbing contact along a stretch of DC :s
Just parked it in gear and sat on the foot brake at lights after that point till I got shot of it; think replacing with brakes is always best with old OEM parts, cash permitting.
Had rear brakes stripped twice and it was the same each time after as soon as I parked up! Nearly killed me on an island too as the brake fluid boiled from the rubbing contact along a stretch of DC :s
Just parked it in gear and sat on the foot brake at lights after that point till I got shot of it; think replacing with brakes is always best with old OEM parts, cash permitting.
Edited by heners54 on Monday 8th April 17:32
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