NGK TR6 Spark Plugs.... Alternative?
Discussion
7's will be fine.
Just use a BCPR7ES or anything similar to that. Or if you want platinum or iridium there are plenty of options too.
TR6's and the plugs used by GM are taper seat, which arent that common here. Normal plugs here used the washer to seal, and work in the cylinder heads just fine.
Just use a BCPR7ES or anything similar to that. Or if you want platinum or iridium there are plenty of options too.
TR6's and the plugs used by GM are taper seat, which arent that common here. Normal plugs here used the washer to seal, and work in the cylinder heads just fine.
Don't see the point in the platinums or iridiums when coppers work as well. The coppers force you to look at your plugs more and make sure there burning well.
What gap would you recommend. I think I ran .27 last time. But read many running .30-.38 what's the benefit if the larger gap?
What gap would you recommend. I think I ran .27 last time. But read many running .30-.38 what's the benefit if the larger gap?
I have 7 new TR6s I can let go for about half the price you can find at the store if you're interested. The NGK US part number for them is 4177. I can throw in another 7 used ones I took off when I went a step colder to TR7ix for free (used for 6 months ~6K miles. TR6s are good and didn't cause any issues but I was running too much boost for them. Let me know if you have any questions.
minime68 said:
BR7s are good as well. Keep in mind colder is not always better. It all depends on your setup.
I'm running just about 9PSII have a feeling I'm running these plugs at the moment but they probably were too cold for 4-5 PSI and now there just old.
stevieturbo said:
That's a recessed nose plug. Cant really see any reason to use that. Although they do seem to be available and are taper seat plugs.
Yeah I read that. People Seem to think its safer. I'm assuming its less likely to crack off?? Ill give them a go. Need something there getting on a bit the ones in there.
minime68 said:
Me and a couple others ran TR6s up to 15 PSI with no issues. I would run them up to 13psi to be safe.
But as TR6's are not available new in the UK the 7s seem more available and read a fair few running only 8PSI with them no issue. I drive like a loony so there going to be running hard a lot of there life!Yes I completely understand. What I am trying to get at is that running a plug too cold for a given setup can have an adverse effect. Bad idling, less power, etc. Sure you can run a bit more timing but more timing is not always more power. In the end, run what works for your car and you're comfortable with 
minime68 said:
Yes I completely understand. What I am trying to get at is that running a plug too cold for a given setup can have an adverse effect. Bad idling, less power, etc. Sure you can run a bit more timing but more timing is not always more power. In the end, run what works for your car and you're comfortable with
I get that going too cold is not sensible. Question is is it too cold? If ther though is yes then I'll order a new set of TR6s and wait. 7's are in no way too cold.
If you want 6's, BCPR6ES, simplez.
The debate about precious metal and copper could go on all night. Both work, the LS really isnt fussy, as the coils are very powerful.
As for pulling and tugging on leads...dont do it. Pull at the shroud, but not the lead. And always use di-electric grease on the inside of the shroud when fitting. Then removal is easy.
As for the recessed nose. I prefer to have the spark deeper in the chamber, not recessed into the plug threads. And the main cause of plug tips breaking etc, is detonation. And a retracted nose plug isnt going to prevent that.
I did use a BCR8ES before which had a retracted nose, but I changed back to normal 7's
Although I'm on BKR7IEX now....for no other reason than the shop had 8 of them and didnt have 8 copper plugs.
If you want 6's, BCPR6ES, simplez.
The debate about precious metal and copper could go on all night. Both work, the LS really isnt fussy, as the coils are very powerful.
As for pulling and tugging on leads...dont do it. Pull at the shroud, but not the lead. And always use di-electric grease on the inside of the shroud when fitting. Then removal is easy.
As for the recessed nose. I prefer to have the spark deeper in the chamber, not recessed into the plug threads. And the main cause of plug tips breaking etc, is detonation. And a retracted nose plug isnt going to prevent that.
I did use a BCR8ES before which had a retracted nose, but I changed back to normal 7's
Although I'm on BKR7IEX now....for no other reason than the shop had 8 of them and didnt have 8 copper plugs.
minime68 said:
I have 7 new TR6s I can let go for about half the price you can find at the store if you're interested. The NGK US part number for them is 4177. I can throw in another 7 used ones I took off when I went a step colder to TR7ix for free (used for 6 months ~6K miles. TR6s are good and didn't cause any issues but I was running too much boost for them. Let me know if you have any questions.
How come you've got 7 new and 7 used
shouldn't it be 8.Not insistent. But as 90% of the low to mid boost community in the stated use them and race on them.
it seems to be a sensible route. There quite cheap too but they will be snail speed! And my plugs really could do with being changed before I start fine tuning my fuelling. I'm itching to drive the car after 3-4 month of not having it. .
it seems to be a sensible route. There quite cheap too but they will be snail speed! And my plugs really could do with being changed before I start fine tuning my fuelling. I'm itching to drive the car after 3-4 month of not having it. .
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