Modwise Boot Release
Discussion
Right, I'm feeling a right clown. After reading how easy this was too fit, it came as a no surprise, to discover that i cannot do it, as I am a numpty when it comes too things like this.
Couple of obvious question.
1) Am I right in assuming that I have too pull all the carpet away in the boot and over the wheel arch, and if so, it looks like I'm going to have to buy some sort of glue to get it all back together again.
2) The wing nut on the switch does not go through the elongated hole of the door lever, which according to the instructions it should.
HELP!!!!
Couple of obvious question.
1) Am I right in assuming that I have too pull all the carpet away in the boot and over the wheel arch, and if so, it looks like I'm going to have to buy some sort of glue to get it all back together again.
2) The wing nut on the switch does not go through the elongated hole of the door lever, which according to the instructions it should.
HELP!!!!
I just fitted one a couple of weeks ago, and it took me a while to work out how it all works.
I noticed that the microswitch will not fit as suggested. I have to undo the wingnut and feed the bolt through the hole in the bracket on the door mechanism, then fiddle about to get the wing nut back on.
The feed for the switch fits onto the interior light as detailed. I did try to find the 'delay' feed so that the boot release would only work for a few seconds after the doors were unlocked, but didn't manage - you may have more luck!
On the end of the other wire from the switch is the relay, encapsulated in heatshrink sleeving. This all sits in the boot. I peeled away the edge of the carpet over the nearside wheelarch next to the boot lip, and ran the wire along there. I also peeled away the carpet at the back next to the boot lid, to run the cable to the boot release, which is on the offside of the boot lock mechanism.
I removed my numberplate, drilled a small hole through from the boot and stuck the reed switch on the back of the number plate with some strong tape. I then put some black silicone in the hole I'd made. The two wires from the relay fit onto the boot release solenoid and this is also the earth for the low voltage side of the relay.
I stuck the carpet back down with Evostick Contact adhesive, available from all DIY stores - spead onto both surfaces, wait 15 minutes for it to go off, and stick back together.
I noticed that the microswitch will not fit as suggested. I have to undo the wingnut and feed the bolt through the hole in the bracket on the door mechanism, then fiddle about to get the wing nut back on.
The feed for the switch fits onto the interior light as detailed. I did try to find the 'delay' feed so that the boot release would only work for a few seconds after the doors were unlocked, but didn't manage - you may have more luck!
On the end of the other wire from the switch is the relay, encapsulated in heatshrink sleeving. This all sits in the boot. I peeled away the edge of the carpet over the nearside wheelarch next to the boot lip, and ran the wire along there. I also peeled away the carpet at the back next to the boot lid, to run the cable to the boot release, which is on the offside of the boot lock mechanism.
I removed my numberplate, drilled a small hole through from the boot and stuck the reed switch on the back of the number plate with some strong tape. I then put some black silicone in the hole I'd made. The two wires from the relay fit onto the boot release solenoid and this is also the earth for the low voltage side of the relay.
I stuck the carpet back down with Evostick Contact adhesive, available from all DIY stores - spead onto both surfaces, wait 15 minutes for it to go off, and stick back together.
I'm not very handy myself, but I managed to get it installed in about 2 hours. This included glueing (?) back the carpets. Mine ofcourse didn't have the optional velcro strips on the carpet. I must say, it was well worth the effort, a must have gadget. Quality and finish as usual from Mod-Wise perfect.
Fred
(xcuse the optional spelling mistake, I'm Dutch..)
Fred
(xcuse the optional spelling mistake, I'm Dutch..)
To be honest, I can't remember whether I secured it with one or two nuts, but I'm pretty sure it only went through one hole. There's not much pressure on it so it doesn;t have to be that secure. Just test it a few times by locking and unlocking the car to make sure it makes the circuit when unlocked without bending or pushing the switch.
Mine secured with only one of the nuts (had to turn it around from the picture shown in the diagram) and the other is effectively redundant. I put the sensor thing in the rear light (reflector) by drilling a small hole (think around 5mm)into the side of the housing and feeding it through. After many failed attempts keeping it secured with insulation tape I glued it (fooking super glue everywhere before I finally got it to stick and with it working). Put the magnet in the key fob (Meta) alarm which is small. Yours should be a Gemini (I think) so the fob is much bigger.
Any problems call David - he is very helpful.
FFG
Any problems call David - he is very helpful.
FFG
JoolzB said:
I drilled a hole almost the whole way through the key and stuck it there. 
From memory I think I just used the one nut for the reed switch on the door locking mechanism, it's been fine.
>> Edited by JoolzB on Tuesday 28th September 17:23
But youve put the boot opener on your Opel then
Ballistic Banana said:
But youve put the boot opener on your Opel then
Mines an Opel key too. I know they used GM steering columns, odd they turn out as Opels though.
If JoolzB would now send us the code for his blipper to go with the nice pic of the key we should be able to have his motor away!
JoolzB said:
If JoolzB would now send us the code for his blipper to go with the nice pic of the key we should be able to have his motor away!
Yeah right! You'd have to get the starter motor going first
Not you as well! Mine sometimes plays silly beggars when hot. Solution - bottle of water tipped past the drivers side manifolds. I kid you not.
donatien said:
donatien said:
If JoolzB would now send us the code for his blipper to go with the nice pic of the key we should be able to have his motor away!
Yeah right! You'd have to get the starter motor going first
Not you as well! Mine sometimes plays silly beggars when hot. Solution - bottle of water tipped past the drivers side manifolds. I kid you not.
No I was kidding. I(with a bit of help) managed to fix the hot start problem my car had and even kept the same starter motor + sol.
Ballistic Banana said:
I drilled a hole almost the whole way through the key and stuck it there.
From memory I think I just used the one nut for the reed switch on the door locking mechanism, it's been fine.
>> Edited by JoolzB on Tuesday 28th September 17:23
But youve put the boot opener on your Opel then
Came across someone with a max power Opel, as you might know there called Opel over here. He had a nice aluminium key, I mean the plastic black bit was made of aluminium, looked realy cool. Bonus, no Opel/Vauxhal logo, name or anything. Does anyone have an idea were to get one like that. I forgot to ask the bloke.
Fred
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