Geometry settings - track vs road
Discussion
Morning all,
Looking at recommended track/road geometry settings on a car (Ariel Atom), one of the differences is an increase in negative camber (front and back) for track use compared to road. If you use these track settings on the road, will there be any negatives (handling etc) other than increased tyre wear on the inner edges? I assume that the negative camber helps keep the full footprint of the tyre in contact with the track during high speed cornering.
However, if your driving on the road then you won't be going as fast round bends (unless you drive like a lunatic). Will this mean that you have less of a tyre footprint in contact with the road and therefore less grip? Does negative camber effect straight line grip?
I appreciate that there is a lot more to it than just camber and many other variables to be considered, but I'm just trying to work out if a car that is used mainly on road with occasional track use should be set up with road or track geometry.
Many thanks in advance
Looking at recommended track/road geometry settings on a car (Ariel Atom), one of the differences is an increase in negative camber (front and back) for track use compared to road. If you use these track settings on the road, will there be any negatives (handling etc) other than increased tyre wear on the inner edges? I assume that the negative camber helps keep the full footprint of the tyre in contact with the track during high speed cornering.
However, if your driving on the road then you won't be going as fast round bends (unless you drive like a lunatic). Will this mean that you have less of a tyre footprint in contact with the road and therefore less grip? Does negative camber effect straight line grip?
I appreciate that there is a lot more to it than just camber and many other variables to be considered, but I'm just trying to work out if a car that is used mainly on road with occasional track use should be set up with road or track geometry.
Many thanks in advance
Edited by Toilet Duck on Monday 8th April 12:46
Increasing camber will reduce longitudinal grip; so whilst it is beneficial to a point it will reduce traction under braking and when coming on throttle. Also, increasing camber often works well with a corresponding increase in toe out (or reduce in toe in).
Whether or not it's worth doing I can't say. How easily can camber be changed? Is it shimmed or are the wishbone lengths adjustable? if the latter, this will affect KPI too, so will need more in depth consideration.
Whether or not it's worth doing I can't say. How easily can camber be changed? Is it shimmed or are the wishbone lengths adjustable? if the latter, this will affect KPI too, so will need more in depth consideration.
Never noticed any downside to running plenty of camber on my BMW, used to run 3deg up front and it's great but the wear will get on your tits if you mostly drive straight. It will still rip your face off under braking so I guess straight line grip is fine. Rear always 2deg so can't comment there.
Just so you know, I was getting about 8k from a pair of front tyres, new to on the cords at the inside.
Just so you know, I was getting about 8k from a pair of front tyres, new to on the cords at the inside.
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