New engine mounts.
Discussion
I'll need to replace the engine mounts on the Griff sometime soon. Can anyone provide some help on the steps?
I'm assuming I need to support/lift the engine slightly. I was going to support it under the sump with a plank of wood to spread the load.
Do the exhaust manifolds need to come off? Can I get away with disconnecting them at the front where they connect to the cat?
I'll also be fixing an oil leak at the back of the valley gasket so most of the in nduction will be off too.
Any views on the sc power engine mounts? Worth the extra money over the standards (which have lasted 17 years)?
Thanks
I'm assuming I need to support/lift the engine slightly. I was going to support it under the sump with a plank of wood to spread the load.
Do the exhaust manifolds need to come off? Can I get away with disconnecting them at the front where they connect to the cat?
I'll also be fixing an oil leak at the back of the valley gasket so most of the in nduction will be off too.
Any views on the sc power engine mounts? Worth the extra money over the standards (which have lasted 17 years)?
Thanks
I have the SC power ones.. and they do lift the engine a tad more which is good.. and they are a cup design so if they do go, the engine stays where it is and does not fall... I like them but there is an order to fitting them.. passenger side first or it will not go in if you do the drivers (spacer) one first.
I see no reason why you can't support the engine on the sump... I'm sure folk will say it's not strong enough and you should make a frame and jack on the side of the engine etc etc.. But let's face it, when the engine is out, how many have them sat on one end of the sump with no detriment... So long as you spread the load to the outer edge I think you'll be fine
leave the exhaust alone.. you don't need to do anything with it..
I see no reason why you can't support the engine on the sump... I'm sure folk will say it's not strong enough and you should make a frame and jack on the side of the engine etc etc.. But let's face it, when the engine is out, how many have them sat on one end of the sump with no detriment... So long as you spread the load to the outer edge I think you'll be fine

leave the exhaust alone.. you don't need to do anything with it..
Edited by TVR Beaver on Friday 12th April 09:52
I just replaced mine with sc power ones. They seem a lot better than the previous ones, which were very split. Can't comment on longevity one week in.....good service and advice from sc power when I emailed them. Fitting was a pain..I cut a ring spanner in half to help. Apparently a ratchet spanner is a good thing.
I had the front of car on axle stands, lifted the engine with jack and block of wood under the pulley with wheels off for access to the mounts. also had the bonnet up when lifting the engine...all advice I found here, but can't find the post now.
I had the front of car on axle stands, lifted the engine with jack and block of wood under the pulley with wheels off for access to the mounts. also had the bonnet up when lifting the engine...all advice I found here, but can't find the post now.
The SC mounts are expensive but pretty much fit and forget.
From my experience, you can lift the engine on the sump pan, just put a big flat piece of wood under it to spread the load.
Take the brackets off with engine mounts still attached then split them on the bench.
Watch the spacers and be sure to put them back in the same place.
Take the opportunity to paint the brackets while they are off.
From my experience, you can lift the engine on the sump pan, just put a big flat piece of wood under it to spread the load.
Take the brackets off with engine mounts still attached then split them on the bench.
Watch the spacers and be sure to put them back in the same place.
Take the opportunity to paint the brackets while they are off.
A useful tip, acquired from someone on here a few years ago is to lift the engine under the sump with a trolley jack from the opposite side to the side you are changing.
By doing that the jack pulls the engine away from the mount so you can offer it up to the holes with far less of a fight.
I also tend to cut about 2mm off the threaded studs in the mount. Doing that makes it so much easier both getting the new one in and getting it out next time.
By doing that the jack pulls the engine away from the mount so you can offer it up to the holes with far less of a fight.
I also tend to cut about 2mm off the threaded studs in the mount. Doing that makes it so much easier both getting the new one in and getting it out next time.
This is a bit of a thread resurrection but I need to replace my engine mounts which look like this.

Which ones to buy? Options appear to be:
1) OEM
2) OEM with support cages
3) "Uprated" Racetech version
4) SC Power Mounts
I had been pretty much set on getting the SC Power mounts but then I found this thread over on the Dark-side suggesting they have a serious melting problem.

Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Simon

Which ones to buy? Options appear to be:
1) OEM
2) OEM with support cages
3) "Uprated" Racetech version
4) SC Power Mounts
I had been pretty much set on getting the SC Power mounts but then I found this thread over on the Dark-side suggesting they have a serious melting problem.

Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Simon
Steve_D said:
So how long do you think those have lasted? Most, if not all, of the cars life.
Fit a set from your favourite Land Rover supplier and get another 10 years.
Steve
Absolutely agree with Steve. Go with the OEM parts, get a pair of original Land Rover parts. Unless you are racing the car why bother with expensive (and it seems poor) exotic versions! Regards, PeteFit a set from your favourite Land Rover supplier and get another 10 years.
Steve
PeteGriff said:
Absolutely agree with Steve. Go with the OEM parts, get a pair of original Land Rover parts. Unless you are racing the car why bother with expensive (and it seems poor) exotic versions! Regards, Pete
They are not Land Rover parts and NOS originals are rare as rocking horse poo now
those SC ones shown are the early version and apparently that problem has been addressed with a different material now
I had the same failure on 2 cars with next to no mileage done before they tore out this was dealt with swiftly by SC Power in a professional manner
these are what I have fitted now followed by the latest SC one's now SOLD Edited by Sardonicus on Wednesday 2nd October 09:37
jeboa said:
I have the SC Power ones. They were very honest in admitting they had a problem with previous batches, but the ones I have on at the moment are spot on. So recommendation from me.
Any 'OEM' ones you go for are very hit and miss - I had one go after less than 1000 miles.
The only so called OEM ones worth fitting are the original Metzeler units (pictured previously) this is why there are still so many RV8 TVR's running around on the stock mounts they last really well considering the close proximity to the ex manifolds etc Any 'OEM' ones you go for are very hit and miss - I had one go after less than 1000 miles.
glad to hear that the SC units are now sorted Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff





