Centre console removal / electric window switch origin
Discussion
Afternoon wedge people 
I am going to be poking at a friends wedge at the weekend - drivers side window has been very slow and is apparently now stuck down, with no 'up' click at the motor when the switch is pressed.
So, two questions if I may...
How easy is it to remove the centre panel the window switches are mounted in, assuming the switches press/click/lock into the panel from the front?
And from what weird and wonderful motor did the switches originally come from?
TIA
I am going to be poking at a friends wedge at the weekend - drivers side window has been very slow and is apparently now stuck down, with no 'up' click at the motor when the switch is pressed.
So, two questions if I may...
How easy is it to remove the centre panel the window switches are mounted in, assuming the switches press/click/lock into the panel from the front?
And from what weird and wonderful motor did the switches originally come from?
TIA
I can tell you how to do the job as I have just serviced both my windows and I took the switches out and serviced them too.
1. Take door panel off. Undo motor connector and run two wires direct to battery to check the function of the motor. The window should go up and down by reversing the polarity. If window works but is just slow, you need to get the oil and grease out. Using silicon based oil lubricate both runners of the window. Grease and oil all moving parts including side runners and window bottom runners etc. Make sure everything moving is soaked in oil then grease the parts that should be greased with thick grease. Using the temporary wire to the motor make the window go up and down several times to free it all up. Once satisfied with the speed the window mechanism is serviced. Put connections and door panel back. If nothing happens when you run the temporary wires to the motor from the battery, then you need a new motor. It's the same ones used on the Reliant Scimitar and there is a right and left, usually available on ebay. Now do the same to the other door motor.
2. My car is a 400se and to get to switches you have to remove the centre section covering the clocks. To do this you remove the stereo and on either side inside the panel there are two nuts you undo and the panel lifts away far enough. Then you can get to the window switches. On the 350 its probably very similar to remove the panel. The switches push out from the front. Undo the plug and push the switch forward. Don't forget to remove the fibre optic for the light. The switched can be opened up and cleaned and the contacts can be sanded, lubricated and put back. You can also test the switches with a volt meter for the function. Each switch wire on the switch plug can also be tested with a voltmeter. Each switch should have one live wire with ignition, one earth, fed to both top and bottom part of the switch for up and down movement. The upper part of the switch should have two wires running direct to the motor and so should the bottom half. These wires can also be tested by using a voltmeter between the motor and the switch. Once you have done this to both switches then your windows are fully serviced and should be working fine. The live wire to the switch runs through a fuse on either side.
I hope this helps, any questions, just ask.
Tony. TCB.
1. Take door panel off. Undo motor connector and run two wires direct to battery to check the function of the motor. The window should go up and down by reversing the polarity. If window works but is just slow, you need to get the oil and grease out. Using silicon based oil lubricate both runners of the window. Grease and oil all moving parts including side runners and window bottom runners etc. Make sure everything moving is soaked in oil then grease the parts that should be greased with thick grease. Using the temporary wire to the motor make the window go up and down several times to free it all up. Once satisfied with the speed the window mechanism is serviced. Put connections and door panel back. If nothing happens when you run the temporary wires to the motor from the battery, then you need a new motor. It's the same ones used on the Reliant Scimitar and there is a right and left, usually available on ebay. Now do the same to the other door motor.
2. My car is a 400se and to get to switches you have to remove the centre section covering the clocks. To do this you remove the stereo and on either side inside the panel there are two nuts you undo and the panel lifts away far enough. Then you can get to the window switches. On the 350 its probably very similar to remove the panel. The switches push out from the front. Undo the plug and push the switch forward. Don't forget to remove the fibre optic for the light. The switched can be opened up and cleaned and the contacts can be sanded, lubricated and put back. You can also test the switches with a volt meter for the function. Each switch wire on the switch plug can also be tested with a voltmeter. Each switch should have one live wire with ignition, one earth, fed to both top and bottom part of the switch for up and down movement. The upper part of the switch should have two wires running direct to the motor and so should the bottom half. These wires can also be tested by using a voltmeter between the motor and the switch. Once you have done this to both switches then your windows are fully serviced and should be working fine. The live wire to the switch runs through a fuse on either side.
I hope this helps, any questions, just ask.
Tony. TCB.
Hi I replaced mine with the up/down switch from here:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...
andy43 said:
And from what weird and wonderful motor did the switches originally come from?
TIA
TR7/ Austin Princess. There are at least two styles though, possibly three: one has little ribs along the front edge of the lever; one has no ribs and one allegedly has the switch symbol on that edge. Whichever type you need will not be available TIA
Well, we have had a good play with it now - there's power right through to the motor, polarities reversing ok for up and down, so the switch is out of the equation. I have a meter and continuity tester which confirmed all ok to the motor.
Window is stuck fully down, and on pressing 'down' the motor clicks as it's already at the end of it's downwards travel.
On pressing 'up' the motor is getting the correct reversed polarity power but there is nothing, no click, no movement, nothing.
In a moment of genius I pulled the end casing off the motor while still in situ and cleaned the brushes and commutator up as they were caked in dirt and oil... then had to drill two small holes in the casing and use cocktail sticks to hold the brushes back to reassemble
Still nothing on the 'up', still clicks on the 'down' with a slight movement.
Trying to spin the motor by hand while the end casing was off was easy, free spinning with no resistance at all - which suggests the gearbox part of the regulator is buggered, or not doing what it should.
Think a new motor and gearbox ie whole regulator is the best way forward.
Window is stuck fully down, and on pressing 'down' the motor clicks as it's already at the end of it's downwards travel.
On pressing 'up' the motor is getting the correct reversed polarity power but there is nothing, no click, no movement, nothing.
In a moment of genius I pulled the end casing off the motor while still in situ and cleaned the brushes and commutator up as they were caked in dirt and oil... then had to drill two small holes in the casing and use cocktail sticks to hold the brushes back to reassemble
Still nothing on the 'up', still clicks on the 'down' with a slight movement.
Trying to spin the motor by hand while the end casing was off was easy, free spinning with no resistance at all - which suggests the gearbox part of the regulator is buggered, or not doing what it should.
Think a new motor and gearbox ie whole regulator is the best way forward.
What happens when you give the motor power direct from the battery? is there movement up or down then? If not the motor has had it. You may be able to fix the motor by dismantling but a better bet is a new motor and actuator. I think they have them on ebay now. Remember there is left and right. It's the same as the Reliant Scimitar.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
It's now in the hands of a professional
Motor was defo getting voltage correctly both up and down - voltmeter confirmed that - so I doubt powering the motor directly off a booster pack would have changed anything unfortunately. It's still possible it is the gearbox part of the regulator, rather than the actual motor, but I'm guessing.
Motor was original - rivetted on not bolted on, so it'd need to be drilled while off the car to get it off the rest of the mechanism, and we really didn't fancy trying to get the whole regulator and mechanism out of the door without breaking anything glass shaped
Scimitar seems right from googling, possibly others may fit as well as a Reliant ain't exactly a mainstream choice - and there are brand new Scimitar regulators on ebay now at £50 a pop.
Motor was defo getting voltage correctly both up and down - voltmeter confirmed that - so I doubt powering the motor directly off a booster pack would have changed anything unfortunately. It's still possible it is the gearbox part of the regulator, rather than the actual motor, but I'm guessing.
Motor was original - rivetted on not bolted on, so it'd need to be drilled while off the car to get it off the rest of the mechanism, and we really didn't fancy trying to get the whole regulator and mechanism out of the door without breaking anything glass shaped
Scimitar seems right from googling, possibly others may fit as well as a Reliant ain't exactly a mainstream choice - and there are brand new Scimitar regulators on ebay now at £50 a pop.
andy43 said:
didn't fancy trying to get the whole regulator and mechanism out of the door
It's not too difficult, I suspect if you drilled out the rivets the motor would run perfectly as you probably have a slight gear wear issue as I mentioned previously.They are originally off a Rover SD1 I believe
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