Bugger part 1V

[TMRnoV]

Torque related problem is this one, refitting the inlet manifold (2.9 engine) and I'm not sure what I should be torquing it down to, the Sierra manual I have gives 5 different stages (1 to 5) ranging from 4Nm to 25Nm.

Now the only stages that I'm aware of (stands back and waits to be educated) refer to cylinder heads and their state of tuning and not to inlet manifolds although I see how that could be.

Also should I be torquing down while cold (no choice really) or get it running and then remove the plenum again (pain in the arse)

More "Buggers" to come in this series no doubt.

Tim

[tvrgit]

Why not just follow the advice in the manual? Why buy a manual then ignore it?

It's 20 years since I looked at a manual for this, so my recollection might be a wee bit vague.

You are trying to tighten down a single component (the manifold) onto two non-parallel mating surface. It has to go down evenly, or it won't seal properly. If you horse down one corner and then work across, you'll never get it right. So... you tighten it in stages.

Again, the manual says you do it cold, then warm the engine up, and then re-tighten all the bolts. That does, IIRC, mean removing the plenum again. I think it also means taking the distributor out to get to one of the bolts at the back (although I think you can work around that).

[TMRnoV]

tvrgit said:

Why not just follow the advice in the manual? Why buy a manual then ignore it?

I wasn't ignoring the manual, just not understanding it The way it reads it gives the impression that there are 5 different torque settings which could apply to 5 different stages of tuning, what it doesn't say is that you should use the first settings and follow the tightening sequence, then use the second set of settings and follow the tightening sequence and so on and so on until the maximum settings have been achieved.

But now all is clear

Thanks

Tim

[Jed-S]

One thing I discovered was that if using a pattern inlet manifold gasket made from "card", was that I had to tighten it much more than the book said. If using a Ford part which was noticeably thicker then the book settings worked. I'd also recommend a thin smear of instant gasket around the water way holes as well with a non Ford (or OEM quality) part.

[Gerald-TVR]

I no longer have the Haynes manuals for the Cologne engine but if I remember corrected you torque the head down in stages ie tighten all the studs down to the first setting, then re-tighten them to the second etc but I think when the last torquing stage has been reached. I think then a final tighten down by a set amount, half a turn or something like that.

BUT the head studs stretch so must be replaced each time the head is re-fitted

[tvrgit]

Gerald-TVR said:

I no longer have the Haynes manuals for the Cologne engine but if I remember corrected you torque the head down in stages ie tighten all the studs down to the first setting, then re-tighten them to the second etc but I think when the last torquing stage has been reached. I think then a final tighten down by a set amount, half a turn or something like that.

BUT the head studs stretch so must be replaced each time the head is re-fitted

Absolutely correct

Except he's talking about the inlet manifold!

10/10 for memory there Norman. A bit less for reading the question!

[Gerald-TVR]

tvrgit said:

Absolutely correct

Except he's talking about the inlet manifold!

10/10 for memory there Norman. A bit less for reading the question!

Buged