Car won't start....
Discussion
Starting to get a bit annoyed with the car now, it worked perfectly in the UK but has been a nuisance since it arrived in Australia!
Car had a flat battery due to non use last week, charged it up (took it out the car and charged indoors for 48hrs on Ctek due to no power in garage).
Worked fine for past few days, although yesterday was a bit slow to crank.
Today, dead!
I used the Anderson connectors to jump start from my other car and it would crank & fire but die straight away.
I just bought a jump start battery to use that (easier than moving the car around without power to connect to other car) - and wouldn't even crank properly.
I videoed my attempt:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6j5ie2t7x8c1o8u/2013-04-...
Any thoughts? Battery was new in October.
Not sure if relevant but the cigarette lighter doesn't seem to work recently either (always used to).
Car had a flat battery due to non use last week, charged it up (took it out the car and charged indoors for 48hrs on Ctek due to no power in garage).
Worked fine for past few days, although yesterday was a bit slow to crank.
Today, dead!
I used the Anderson connectors to jump start from my other car and it would crank & fire but die straight away.
I just bought a jump start battery to use that (easier than moving the car around without power to connect to other car) - and wouldn't even crank properly.
I videoed my attempt:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6j5ie2t7x8c1o8u/2013-04-...
Any thoughts? Battery was new in October.
Not sure if relevant but the cigarette lighter doesn't seem to work recently either (always used to).
my guess would be the 125a fuse. they are only a couple of quid each and prone to failure.
http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
Mattt said:
Also just noticed the drivers window down button isn't working, and if I lock the car that the window is only raising halfway before stopping.
Potential button/door ECU problem - might explain the parasitic drain?
i am pretty basic when it comes to car maintenance, but my logic says that the engine dying after start up suggests something more fundamental with the car's elastictrickery supply.Potential button/door ECU problem - might explain the parasitic drain?
Yup, I'm mainly leaning towards earths at the moment - surely even if the 125A fuse went it would just stop the battery charging.
The car was connected to a running Land Rovers battery, therefore should have negated any problems with the TVR's battery/alternator - and seeing as it still didn't work then, leads me to assume it's not a problem with the alternator/battery setup.
I need to get the car up on axle stands to take a look underneath at the chassis earths.
The car was connected to a running Land Rovers battery, therefore should have negated any problems with the TVR's battery/alternator - and seeing as it still didn't work then, leads me to assume it's not a problem with the alternator/battery setup.
I need to get the car up on axle stands to take a look underneath at the chassis earths.
I had a similar problem with my T350. I have a battery booster (spare battery) which I connected up via Andersen leads but could not get it started. I called RAC out for another issue (cats melted) and he said let's get it out of the garage. I informed him no can do. He pushes it out and starts it up with van battery booster. Those guys have seriously powerful batteries and have never failed me on my various types of vehicles over the years.
Anyway the point being that I am not sure how powerful that land rover battery is but it might be worth getting an RAC guy out to see if he can start it.
Once started, the fault was pointed at the battery in my case, definitely not changed in the last 4 years but lasted well due to trickle charger.
I know you say you had your battery changed back in OCtober but it could be a faulty battery or poor lead connection. I had this once when a new battery went on a previous car after a few months. I hadn't used the car much but it was down to the leads not being fully connected on the battery i.e. not pushed all the way down onto the connectors. The weak connection led to over power surge on the limited contact points which then wrecked the battery so that it wouldn't charge properly afterwards. Battery had to be replaced.
Anyway the point being that I am not sure how powerful that land rover battery is but it might be worth getting an RAC guy out to see if he can start it.
Once started, the fault was pointed at the battery in my case, definitely not changed in the last 4 years but lasted well due to trickle charger.
I know you say you had your battery changed back in OCtober but it could be a faulty battery or poor lead connection. I had this once when a new battery went on a previous car after a few months. I hadn't used the car much but it was down to the leads not being fully connected on the battery i.e. not pushed all the way down onto the connectors. The weak connection led to over power surge on the limited contact points which then wrecked the battery so that it wouldn't charge properly afterwards. Battery had to be replaced.
I've ordered some new 80A & 125A (replacement for 100A) MIDI fuses anyway just to rule them out - I was also going to try and relocate the 100A fuse holder to the inner wing as there's lot of spare cable and I've heard a few people have done this - any pictures? Saves taking airbox off in case fuse blows.
I have the biggest jump starter I could get - 1900A (it actually has 2 batteries inside it).
IIRC Land Rover battery is 750CCA, so decent size.
I have the biggest jump starter I could get - 1900A (it actually has 2 batteries inside it).
IIRC Land Rover battery is 750CCA, so decent size.
Mattt said:
I've ordered some new 80A & 125A (replacement for 100A) MIDI fuses anyway just to rule them out - I was also going to try and relocate the 100A fuse holder to the inner wing as there's lot of spare cable and I've heard a few people have done this - any pictures? Saves taking airbox off in case fuse blows.
I have the biggest jump starter I could get - 1900A (it actually has 2 batteries inside it).
IIRC Land Rover battery is 750CCA, so decent size.
I stand corrected. That is one impressive jump starter. I have the biggest jump starter I could get - 1900A (it actually has 2 batteries inside it).
IIRC Land Rover battery is 750CCA, so decent size.
I should get myself one of those.Very similar to my car a while ago. I checked the earths to no avail and eventually found that the battery was dead. It just couldn't supply the cranking amps any more- these cars need a lot. Even jumping off my other car with a big battery for a 3.2 V6 with the engine running, it wouldn't turn fast enough to start.
When you say it cranks, fires fut dies straight away, does that mean as soon as it starts, or as soon as you disconnect the jump battery?
Once I fitted the new battery, the car would start, but voltage was hanging around 12, and I could only drive for a couple of miles before it stalled. Turns out that the 125A fuse was blown too. I think it suffers if you jump start a flat battery.
If you don't have a multimeter, just watch the voltage on the dash. If the engine is running it should read 13.6V. If less I'd say the Fuse under the airbox is blown.
If you can get the car to Weatheril Park, I'd strongly recommend Mick at Coarse Automotive- they will be good to you. Tell him I sent you.
When you say it cranks, fires fut dies straight away, does that mean as soon as it starts, or as soon as you disconnect the jump battery?
Once I fitted the new battery, the car would start, but voltage was hanging around 12, and I could only drive for a couple of miles before it stalled. Turns out that the 125A fuse was blown too. I think it suffers if you jump start a flat battery.
If you don't have a multimeter, just watch the voltage on the dash. If the engine is running it should read 13.6V. If less I'd say the Fuse under the airbox is blown.
If you can get the car to Weatheril Park, I'd strongly recommend Mick at Coarse Automotive- they will be good to you. Tell him I sent you.
Know you say your battery is fairly new but if it has been discharged for a while you may well have killed it, could try temporarily putting a known good battery on it to see if it works. Would be worth getting power to your garage so you can keep a battery conditioner on it at all times.
Hope its something as simple as the battery or a fuse.
Hope its something as simple as the battery or a fuse.
Mattt said:
I've ordered some new 80A & 125A (replacement for 100A) MIDI fuses anyway just to rule them out - I was also going to try and relocate the 100A fuse holder to the inner wing as there's lot of spare cable and I've heard a few people have done this - any pictures? Saves taking airbox off in case fuse blows.
I have the biggest jump starter I could get - 1900A (it actually has 2 batteries inside it).
IIRC Land Rover battery is 750CCA, so decent size.
I relocated the 100Amp fuse from underneath the airbox to the engine bay side as shown:I have the biggest jump starter I could get - 1900A (it actually has 2 batteries inside it).
IIRC Land Rover battery is 750CCA, so decent size.
I also had a live terminal lug fitted (Orange lug situated near the power steering fluid container) as a third option to the anderson connector and cigar lighter as shown below:
Hope this is of use to you.
Mattt said:
Thanks, 125A fuse replaced and she lives!
Reluctant to start at first even on jump cables, but left it for 5 minutes and she fired. Ran rough for a few seconds then settled down.
Just need to keep an eye on voltages now, and see how the battery holds up.
great stuff. my first correct PH diagnosis of a TVR problem too!Reluctant to start at first even on jump cables, but left it for 5 minutes and she fired. Ran rough for a few seconds then settled down.
Just need to keep an eye on voltages now, and see how the battery holds up.
now get out there and hunt a few holdens!
sounds like your battery might have taken a bit of a kicking with all this. wouldn't be surprised if it karks it sooon,
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