Smoke on start up
Discussion



It has a great history had top end re build at 16k miles and has 25k now. I think I read somewhere this is okay and has something to do with having a dry sump. there are no other problems that I can notice so far but only owned it for a short while.
Any thoughts?
If it is blue could possibly be the Valve stem seals leaking/worn. Keep a close eye on your oil level. Mine were worn in my old engine and ran it for 5000 miles with no issues (was burning about 1litre every 1000miles)
G
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Edited by boardinscotland on Friday 3rd May 00:15
Edited by boardinscotland on Friday 3rd May 10:14
m4tti said:
What oil are you using? Are you pressing the throttle on start up?
The oil is I believe mobil can't say for sure but thats is what is in the boot for top up (only had the car3 weeks) which explains the paranoia.Yes I do use some throttle to start as that is what the manual suggests. Too much perhaps?
The grade of oil is more important. If its too thin you'll end up with seepage into the bores.
In addition to this the mbe management system is what could be described as crude by modern standards. Depending on conditions you can get over fuelling at start up which will cause washing of oil down into the bores.
In addition to this the mbe management system is what could be described as crude by modern standards. Depending on conditions you can get over fuelling at start up which will cause washing of oil down into the bores.
Without meaning to unduly frighten you, mine was smoking, only on start up. It turned out to be worn valve guides and the engine is now being rebuilt. I believe the original valve guides were made from brass and rather prone to wear - you can upgrade to proper steel ones. Was the top end rebuilt by TVR?
robsco said:
Without meaning to unduly frighten you, mine was smoking, only on start up. It turned out to be worn valve guides and the engine is now being rebuilt. I believe the original valve guides were made from brass and rather prone to wear - you can upgrade to proper steel ones. Was the top end rebuilt by TVR?
It is most likely this or at the best worn oil stem seals. Has the engine ever had a rebuild or top end one? If you are mechanically competent then rebuilding the head yourself with steel guides will not be too much of a worry. But best to get an engineering workshop to press the guides in.Worth doing an oil change first though as it 'could' be worn and too thin oil, but this would likely smoke when driving too. Just smoking on start up is textbook failure cause for a worn valve guide or oil seals.
I guess if you ask a question like mine you are going to get some horror stories, I am trying not to panic
I do not wish to appear thick but I tried to check the oil level today. Followed the procedure in the owners handbook unscrewed the cap and the oil level was way up the dip stick wiped it put it back in and the oil had gone

I thought oh dear ill put some oil in, so i put in about 1/2 litre as I sensed I might be being stupid. Started her and stopped went through same procedure and got the same results. I now think I am definitely doing something wrong
Please help
PS Everything else seems fine pressure is good cold and hot.
PSS topend was done by green star (Blackpool)

I do not wish to appear thick but I tried to check the oil level today. Followed the procedure in the owners handbook unscrewed the cap and the oil level was way up the dip stick wiped it put it back in and the oil had gone


I thought oh dear ill put some oil in, so i put in about 1/2 litre as I sensed I might be being stupid. Started her and stopped went through same procedure and got the same results. I now think I am definitely doing something wrong
Please help
PS Everything else seems fine pressure is good cold and hot.
PSS topend was done by green star (Blackpool)
Edited by Tincan on Saturday 4th May 20:23
In relation to oil checks, they're an absolute bugger to get right. I park up after a decent journey, open bonnet, unscrew the dipstick, remove it and clean it while the engine is still running. Then turn the engine off and then sprint back to the oil tank and screw the dipstick back in as fast as possible. I find that if you don't get the thread of the dipstick right first time, it's too late and you won't get a true reading.
robsco said:
In relation to oil checks, they're an absolute bugger to get right. I park up after a decent journey, open bonnet, unscrew the dipstick, remove it and clean it while the engine is still running. Then turn the engine off and then sprint back to the oil tank and screw the dipstick back in as fast as possible. I find that if you don't get the thread of the dipstick right first time, it's too late and you won't get a true reading.


So you need to screw the cap down to get the right level? Shame TVR couldn't be arsed to make it clear in the manual.
I've got a lot to learn....
Just to settle things down again. Go drive the car. Keep driving it. If your oil consumption goes down to a litre per 500 miles then get the guides/seals replaced or get a complete engine rebuild if you want.
A small amount of wear could cause slight smoke on start up but as heat I the engine builds gaps will tighten up and your oil consumption will be as normal. You will know when it's bad as you'll be using a hell of a lot of oil.
If your struggling to measure it you could use the cold method whereby the tip of the stick is just covered in oil.
A small amount of wear could cause slight smoke on start up but as heat I the engine builds gaps will tighten up and your oil consumption will be as normal. You will know when it's bad as you'll be using a hell of a lot of oil.
If your struggling to measure it you could use the cold method whereby the tip of the stick is just covered in oil.
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