Discussion
So I get myself a lovely new Chimera 4.0 yesterday, having a great time. Then I went to unlock it today, after having parked outside a mates house for a few hours, and....................nothing, not a sound! no reassuring clunk of the doors unlocking tried again and again for 15 mins or so. Fortunatly before buying this beauty I had read the "bible", curtosy of Mr Heath, and had chatted to the dealer and learnt about the other way to get into the car! (shall say no more for security reasons, not that I can lock mine!)
So I got home, using the 'key' for the imobiliser, changed the batteries on the remote and it still won't work. It's locked up in the garage with the imobiliser on but I cant lock the doors and I'm going away tomorrow morning for a couple of weeks.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
James.
>>> Edited by Bangers on Sunday 30th June 22:06
So I got home, using the 'key' for the imobiliser, changed the batteries on the remote and it still won't work. It's locked up in the garage with the imobiliser on but I cant lock the doors and I'm going away tomorrow morning for a couple of weeks.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
James.
>>> Edited by Bangers on Sunday 30th June 22:06
Can't help with the alarm problems specifically, but been in a similar situation myself due to flat battery.
If you have a "pre facelift model", ie with door push button rather than electronic button on mirror ...
... you could get in the car, +++ Edited for security reasons +++ access panels behind the seats (carpet covered, velcro'd down at bottom). This gives access to the door mechanism. Now remove the link between the button and the lock mechanism. Get out an shut the door .. no way in. Takes minutes to do.
I'd imagine there's an equivalent bodge for the later cars, probably disconnecting wires from the solenoid (which is in the same spot).
Doesn't help if someone gets inside by other means, but at least a casual attempt at opening the doors won't be successful.
>> Edited by JSG (moderator) on Sunday 30th June 23:45
If you have a "pre facelift model", ie with door push button rather than electronic button on mirror ...
... you could get in the car, +++ Edited for security reasons +++ access panels behind the seats (carpet covered, velcro'd down at bottom). This gives access to the door mechanism. Now remove the link between the button and the lock mechanism. Get out an shut the door .. no way in. Takes minutes to do.
I'd imagine there's an equivalent bodge for the later cars, probably disconnecting wires from the solenoid (which is in the same spot).
Doesn't help if someone gets inside by other means, but at least a casual attempt at opening the doors won't be successful.
>> Edited by JSG (moderator) on Sunday 30th June 23:45
Not sure if this is relevant, but....
At Le Mans, Flasher couldn't get into his Tamora. That was diagnosed as a door opening button that had jammed in it's pressed position. System seemed to be waiting for the button to ge released before doing antything else.
Flasher, anything you can add ?
At Le Mans, Flasher couldn't get into his Tamora. That was diagnosed as a door opening button that had jammed in it's pressed position. System seemed to be waiting for the button to ge released before doing antything else.
Flasher, anything you can add ?
Thanks guys. That sounds like a good way of securing the car - at least I can do that. I'm hoping that it's just the clicker gone wrong, I won't know until my wife gets back from work in the early hours with her set of keys. It doesn't seem to work at all as even when I got in it would not mobilise the imobiliser, if you know what I mean! Got a cab coming at 0615hrs ouch! 
Just had the same thing happen to my 98 Chim 400. In the end I had to disconnect the siren and have the whole system replaced under warranty. (It's a whole day job for the workshop as well to re-wire/re-programme it I'm afraid). The Meta box behind the dashboard went loopy - you could tap it and get it to flash different frequencies. Buy a steering lock just in case!
Just had the same conversation on a different thread. My Chim won't respond to the key fobs, but I can deactivate the immobiliser. Does anyone know how to get hold of one of the older Meta M99 alarm control boxes? If I do get one can you just unplug the original and plug the new one in?
quote:
Just had the same conversation on a different thread. My Chim won't respond to the key fobs, but I can deactivate the immobiliser. Does anyone know how to get hold of one of the older Meta M99 alarm control boxes? If I do get one can you just unplug the original and plug the new one in?
Even if you can get one, it needs to be programmed to talk to the immobiliser which means sending it off to Meta along with the red alarm code card for the old unit.
Currently in discussion with Meta about this situation.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
I give up. The whole world is conspiring to make sure you can't fix anything at home anymore. It's a conspiracy!
Given that I've taken the siren off already, is there any easy way to disconnect the alram from the indicators so I can at least use the car without attracting the attention of PC Plod (and of course loosing street cred
>> Edited by nashy on Monday 1st July 14:50
Given that I've taken the siren off already, is there any easy way to disconnect the alram from the indicators so I can at least use the car without attracting the attention of PC Plod (and of course loosing street cred
>> Edited by nashy on Monday 1st July 14:50
Didn't think this was a common occurence but...
My Griffith has exactly the same problem at the moment. Luckily I've disconnected the siren (took a while for it to shutup), can break in, then use the imobiliser key and start the car. Had an interesting drive home trying not to move to much to avoid setting the hazards off every 5 minutes!
I've tried various old batteries and can't get my key fob functioning (unfortunately I've only got one). Next step is new batteries however I'm not holding my breath.
I've been told if I can't get the fob working it's a complete new system... great.
Graham
My Griffith has exactly the same problem at the moment. Luckily I've disconnected the siren (took a while for it to shutup), can break in, then use the imobiliser key and start the car. Had an interesting drive home trying not to move to much to avoid setting the hazards off every 5 minutes!
I've tried various old batteries and can't get my key fob functioning (unfortunately I've only got one). Next step is new batteries however I'm not holding my breath.
I've been told if I can't get the fob working it's a complete new system... great.
Graham
If you go to any decent car alarm place they have a little box that they can put the fob against and test if it works. Saves the expense of buying a new battery.
I've resigned to a new system now. Not looking forward to having some oily apprentice climbing all over my magnolia leather!
I've resigned to a new system now. Not looking forward to having some oily apprentice climbing all over my magnolia leather!
I'm booked in for a new Toad Ai606 Cat1 next week at Sextons, Wandsworth, London. Not used them before but I know the company name (my Dad used to be an insurance assesor for the CIS and they supplied replacement radios etc to them), and the guys in the shop all seem professional - definately not one of those places who want to sell you something with flourescent neon lights and a bass tube. Even the salesmen knew the quirks of fitting one to a TVR (battery in boot or footwell, alarms installed in dash etc etc, dodgy old Meta alarms), and he assured me they've done a few before. Fingers crossed. I'll let you know how it all goes.
quote:
Steve,
Dammm - if you can't sort it what hpe fr us mortals???
Seriously what system are you looking at now as I'm wanting to replace my Meta with a real alarm right now....
It's going to be a Cobra compact with 3 year parts and 2 year labour warrenty. Similar to that now fitted to Elises apparently. They are also going to use the second fob button to release the boot.
Steve
Steve
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