juddery clutch
Author
Discussion

tuxman

Original Poster:

9,011 posts

267 months

Sunday 3rd October 2004
quotequote all
our can-am clutch is very juddery is this normal or have i got a problem,its a factory clutch and has done 2500 miles there is no evidence of a problem on the outside oil leeks etc

steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Sunday 3rd October 2004
quotequote all
The pressure plate could be distorted or cracked. It could be oil. It could be burnt.
Bottom line is that it will not cure itself so has to come out.
Bad luck.

Steve

andygtt

8,345 posts

293 months

Sunday 3rd October 2004
quotequote all
judder was something I never suffered in my can-am, and I eventually killed one with all the timed runs I did.... I'd say you have a problem.

steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Sunday 3rd October 2004
quotequote all
Further thoughts.
Check all the drive train for loose bits etc. also engine and gearbox mounts and suspension bushes.

I doubt it will be that as our mounts are on the solid side. Production cars can give clutch judder when mounts become soft with age or contaminants. When you start to lift the clutch it loads these weak mounts which then spring back causing the judder.

Steve

tuxman

Original Poster:

9,011 posts

267 months

Monday 4th October 2004
quotequote all
i have checked all the mounts ,there all ok clutch has never done timed runs infact it had quite an easy life ,does it have warranty ? there are no sighs of oil anywhere!will have to bite the bullet and have a look.thanks for advice

hornie

368 posts

270 months

Wednesday 6th October 2004
quotequote all
ok we've got it to bits and nothing appears to be wrong, any more ideas ?????

Clutch plate is worn around the outside but untouched in the centre

>> Edited by hornie on Wednesday 6th October 21:21

k wright

1,039 posts

288 months

Wednesday 6th October 2004
quotequote all
I've got the same problem with my WRX, almost everyone does. the clutch is less grabby when heated so I heat it up before I pull out of the drive. It works fine after that.

Put the parking brake on and put the car in 1st and slip the clutch for a few seconds. Nothing severe. After that the subie clutch works great. It will need to be replaced sooner but I can live with that. I can't live with the car shaking itself to death on the first 30 minutes of every drive.

ken

Allen-GTR

197 posts

273 months

Wednesday 6th October 2004
quotequote all
Hmmm...

Assuming you started with a freshly surfaced flywheel, it could be a couple of things.
1) Bad (weak) pressure plate
2) Bad clutch disk
3) The throw on the hydraulic actuator shaft too long
4) Unlikely, but the clutch fork shaft not allowing full rotation of the release fork. (bearings, cracked housing)
5) Throw out bearing not properly assembled in the pressure plate
6) The clutch assy not seating on the guide tube, though you'd likely have noticed that the transaxle wouldn't mate up to the adapter plate.
7) Wrong size pressure plate and disk - should be 240mm

Obviously the chattering you are getting is due to the disk not making full contact with the flywheel. I listed the items I could think of, some more likely than others. Hope it gives you something you haven't thought of....

Allen

tuxman

Original Poster:

9,011 posts

267 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
hi Allen,clutch is all new from factory and is 240mm dia,it all seems to be in good order the only odd bit is the plate is worn flat on the pressure plate side but on flywheel side it is only worn around outside edge about 8 mm infact you can still read the part no as if it was new thanks Tuxman

Allen-GTR

197 posts

273 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
Hmmm... I would ask Andy at the factory what he thinks... It seems odd that a new clutch kit and flywheel would not be engaging properly. 2,500 miles would certainly be enough to get everything seated...

Maybe they have seen similar issues.

Spewed the items I could come up with...sorry I couldn't be of more help...

Allen

steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Friday 8th October 2004
quotequote all
Sounds like the flywheel surface is cupped. Do you have somewhere local you could have it inspected. A local engineering company should be able to lay it on a surface table and run a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) over it. A realy good company will have a coordinate measuring machine.
Good luck
Steve

tuxman

Original Poster:

9,011 posts

267 months

Saturday 9th October 2004
quotequote all
thanks steve clutch is on way back to factory,will take flywheel to machine shop to get it checked,hopefully somebody will find something wrong.

marky p

94 posts

280 months

Sunday 10th October 2004
quotequote all
steve_D said:
Sounds like the flywheel surface is cupped. Do you have somewhere local you could have it inspected. A local engineering company should be able to lay it on a surface table and run a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) over it. A realy good company will have a coordinate measuring machine.
Good luck
Steve


Try inspekservices they have a tally surf machine, 01256 406644. www.inspekservices.co.uk

steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Sunday 10th October 2004
quotequote all
marky p said:

steve_D said:
Sounds like the flywheel surface is cupped. Do you have somewhere local you could have it inspected. A local engineering company should be able to lay it on a surface table and run a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) over it. A realy good company will have a coordinate measuring machine.
Good luck
Steve



Try inspekservices they have a tally surf machine, 01256 406644. www.inspekservices.co.uk


A tallysurf will only tell you the surface finish i.e. how rough it is. It will not tell you if it is flat across the surface. You are looking for the clutch contact face to be parallel with the back face that mounts to the crankshaft.

Steve

marky p

94 posts

280 months

Monday 11th October 2004
quotequote all
steve_D said:

marky p said:


steve_D said:
Sounds like the flywheel surface is cupped. Do you have somewhere local you could have it inspected. A local engineering company should be able to lay it on a surface table and run a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) over it. A realy good company will have a coordinate measuring machine.
Good luck
Steve




Try inspekservices they have a tally surf machine, 01256 406644. <a href="http://www.inspekservices.co.uk">www.inspekservices.co.uk</a>



A tallysurf will only tell you the surface finish i.e. how rough it is. It will not tell you if it is flat across the surface. You are looking for the clutch contact face to be parallel with the back face that mounts to the crankshaft.

Steve


Sorry got tallysurf on the brain at the mo been using inspek to measure surface finish on our own uprights, speak to Paul very helpfull guy I got him to measure my alloy sump and also give hole positions, steps etc so we could draw a new sump and make our own drysump for the engine. Also has tallysurf,
Mark.

arthurr

60 posts

271 months

Tuesday 12th October 2004
quotequote all
Is there a pilot bushing in the crank and if so is it in good condition? I recall in the big block Chevy there is a brass bushing which if out of round will cause chatter.

gdr

589 posts

289 months

Tuesday 12th October 2004
quotequote all
arthurr said:
Is there a pilot bushing in the crank and if so is it in good condition? I recall in the big block Chevy there is a brass bushing which if out of round will cause chatter.

There should be a crank spigot needle bearing provided by factory with engine adapter plate. If this is not in place could cause the chatter and maybe uneven wear??

tuxman

Original Poster:

9,011 posts

267 months

Wednesday 13th October 2004
quotequote all
yes there is a needle roller bearing in flywheel and its like new,flywheel has 2 thou runout through a full rotaion,cannot be enough to create any judder it only leaves clutch assembly to cause problems will see what factory say when they have had chance to have a look .