juddery clutch
Discussion
Further thoughts.
Check all the drive train for loose bits etc. also engine and gearbox mounts and suspension bushes.
I doubt it will be that as our mounts are on the solid side. Production cars can give clutch judder when mounts become soft with age or contaminants. When you start to lift the clutch it loads these weak mounts which then spring back causing the judder.
Steve
Check all the drive train for loose bits etc. also engine and gearbox mounts and suspension bushes.
I doubt it will be that as our mounts are on the solid side. Production cars can give clutch judder when mounts become soft with age or contaminants. When you start to lift the clutch it loads these weak mounts which then spring back causing the judder.
Steve
I've got the same problem with my WRX, almost everyone does. the clutch is less grabby when heated so I heat it up before I pull out of the drive. It works fine after that.
Put the parking brake on and put the car in 1st and slip the clutch for a few seconds. Nothing severe. After that the subie clutch works great. It will need to be replaced sooner but I can live with that. I can't live with the car shaking itself to death on the first 30 minutes of every drive.
ken
Put the parking brake on and put the car in 1st and slip the clutch for a few seconds. Nothing severe. After that the subie clutch works great. It will need to be replaced sooner but I can live with that. I can't live with the car shaking itself to death on the first 30 minutes of every drive.
ken
Hmmm...
Assuming you started with a freshly surfaced flywheel, it could be a couple of things.
1) Bad (weak) pressure plate
2) Bad clutch disk
3) The throw on the hydraulic actuator shaft too long
4) Unlikely, but the clutch fork shaft not allowing full rotation of the release fork. (bearings, cracked housing)
5) Throw out bearing not properly assembled in the pressure plate
6) The clutch assy not seating on the guide tube, though you'd likely have noticed that the transaxle wouldn't mate up to the adapter plate.
7) Wrong size pressure plate and disk - should be 240mm
Obviously the chattering you are getting is due to the disk not making full contact with the flywheel. I listed the items I could think of, some more likely than others. Hope it gives you something you haven't thought of....
Allen
Assuming you started with a freshly surfaced flywheel, it could be a couple of things.
1) Bad (weak) pressure plate
2) Bad clutch disk
3) The throw on the hydraulic actuator shaft too long
4) Unlikely, but the clutch fork shaft not allowing full rotation of the release fork. (bearings, cracked housing)
5) Throw out bearing not properly assembled in the pressure plate
6) The clutch assy not seating on the guide tube, though you'd likely have noticed that the transaxle wouldn't mate up to the adapter plate.
7) Wrong size pressure plate and disk - should be 240mm
Obviously the chattering you are getting is due to the disk not making full contact with the flywheel. I listed the items I could think of, some more likely than others. Hope it gives you something you haven't thought of....
Allen
hi Allen,clutch is all new from factory and is 240mm dia,it all seems to be in good order the only odd bit is the plate is worn flat on the pressure plate side but on flywheel side it is only worn around outside edge about 8 mm infact you can still read the part no as if it was new thanks Tuxman
Hmmm... I would ask Andy at the factory what he thinks... It seems odd that a new clutch kit and flywheel would not be engaging properly. 2,500 miles would certainly be enough to get everything seated...
Maybe they have seen similar issues.
Spewed the items I could come up with...sorry I couldn't be of more help...
Allen
Maybe they have seen similar issues.
Spewed the items I could come up with...sorry I couldn't be of more help...
Allen
Sounds like the flywheel surface is cupped. Do you have somewhere local you could have it inspected. A local engineering company should be able to lay it on a surface table and run a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) over it. A realy good company will have a coordinate measuring machine.
Good luck
Steve
Good luck
Steve
steve_D said:
Sounds like the flywheel surface is cupped. Do you have somewhere local you could have it inspected. A local engineering company should be able to lay it on a surface table and run a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) over it. A realy good company will have a coordinate measuring machine.
Good luck
Steve
Try inspekservices they have a tally surf machine, 01256 406644. www.inspekservices.co.uk
marky p said:
steve_D said:
Sounds like the flywheel surface is cupped. Do you have somewhere local you could have it inspected. A local engineering company should be able to lay it on a surface table and run a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) over it. A realy good company will have a coordinate measuring machine.
Good luck
Steve
Try inspekservices they have a tally surf machine, 01256 406644. www.inspekservices.co.uk
A tallysurf will only tell you the surface finish i.e. how rough it is. It will not tell you if it is flat across the surface. You are looking for the clutch contact face to be parallel with the back face that mounts to the crankshaft.
Steve
steve_D said:
marky p said:
steve_D said:
Sounds like the flywheel surface is cupped. Do you have somewhere local you could have it inspected. A local engineering company should be able to lay it on a surface table and run a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) over it. A realy good company will have a coordinate measuring machine.
Good luck
Steve
Try inspekservices they have a tally surf machine, 01256 406644. <a href="http://www.inspekservices.co.uk">www.inspekservices.co.uk</a>
A tallysurf will only tell you the surface finish i.e. how rough it is. It will not tell you if it is flat across the surface. You are looking for the clutch contact face to be parallel with the back face that mounts to the crankshaft.
Steve
Sorry got tallysurf on the brain at the mo been using inspek to measure surface finish on our own uprights, speak to Paul very helpfull guy I got him to measure my alloy sump and also give hole positions, steps etc so we could draw a new sump and make our own drysump for the engine. Also has tallysurf,
Mark.
arthurr said:
Is there a pilot bushing in the crank and if so is it in good condition? I recall in the big block Chevy there is a brass bushing which if out of round will cause chatter.
There should be a crank spigot needle bearing provided by factory with engine adapter plate. If this is not in place could cause the chatter and maybe uneven wear??
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ok we've got it to bits and nothing appears to be wrong, any more ideas ?????