Replacing brake master cylinder / servo

[optimax sniffer]

I am in the process of changing the brake master cylinder after the pedal went to the floor.

I've taken the 6 bolts out that hold in the pedal box, withdrawn the vacuum hose through the bulkhead, along with the throttle cable. Loosened off the servo and disconnected the brake pedal from the servo. Also disconnected the solid brake pipes from the junction manifold in the footwell.

I have another tube to remove as it passes through the pedal box, any idea what it is? I'm guessing it is the oil pressure capillary tube.

Anything else I've forgotten, as the metal framework still doesn't want to move.

[esso]

Sorry I can`t help you with this Buddy as I have never done it but I bet it`s a pig of a job,I have done the clutch master several times and that`s bad enough.I hope it goes well and the air is not too blue,remember,when your pulling your hair out.....go and have a cup of tea...it always looks better after!!!!!

[optimax sniffer]

Having a small glass of Dalwhinnie

[esso]

optimax sniffer said:

Having a small glass of Dalwhinnie

Should have made it a large one !

[ridds]

Are you just taking the Master cylinder off or the whole pedal box out?

I took mine out in September and I can assure you it is a c*#t of job.

The pipes in your picture are:

Capillary to temp sensor
Throttle cable
Oil pressure sensor

I'm not 100% you can get the master cylinder out without removing the entire pedal box. To remove the pedal box you need to do the following:

Disconnect throttle cable
Temp sensor capillary tube
Servo vacuum hose
Hard brake lines to Ali transfer boss
Upper steering UJ
Lower steering column bearing (so you can get the column out the way)
Drivers seat (you will damage the leather otherwise)
Cut out the sealant from around the master cylinder reservoir
"Old man's hand"
Steering control box and ribbons

Good luck!

[Brummmie]

So it was master/servo problem then?
If so someone owes some charidee money!

Btw you do not have to take the pedal box out, well not to change the master cylinder anyway.
I had to bend the copper pipes to get the thing out, what a pain, and i feel your pain..

[bionicjim]

Hi guys
I just change the seals in mine while it was still fitted in the car
Not easy but much more simple than swooping the whole thing
£14 for the seals

[ukkid35]

bionicjim said:

Hi guys
I just change the seals in mine while it was still fitted in the car
Not easy but much more simple than swooping the whole thing
£14 for the seals

As you said - no need to change the master itself unless the bore is damaged, unlikely unless ultra high mileage or car left standing and corrosion has resulted.

Where did you get the seals? Think I'll get some spares...

[optimax sniffer]

bionicjim said:

Hi guys
I just change the seals in mine while it was still fitted in the car
Not easy but much more simple than swooping the whole thing
£14 for the seals

How did you do that? I can't even see the brake master cylinder yet !

[optimax sniffer]

Brummmie said:

So it was master/servo problem then?
If so someone owes some charidee money!

Btw you do not have to take the pedal box out, well not to change the master cylinder anyway.
I had to bend the copper pipes to get the thing out, what a pain, and i feel your pain..

I'm guessing that it is the BMC, as when I was changing the fluid, the pedal went from rock hard to no resistance at all. (Yes the nipples were closed) I presume that a seal was starting to go and stopping fluid flow, now it has let go completely go and has no resistance

[bionicjim]

Hi mate
I will see if I can find the invoice it must be some ware
I pulled the plunger part of the assemble out swopped the seals
Put back in it was still a ste of a job
It tuck me about 45mins and a lot of back pain

[spitfire4v8]

I think there's some confusion on this thread about which master cylinder is being discussed!