Clutch Master Cylinder

[Tuscandan]

Hi everyone,
I am after some help!
Having just fitted a new raceproved slave cylinder, and checked the condition of the clutch in the process, I am still having problems with my selection of gears. So I had a look at the master cylinder and low and behold its leaking, so a new one has just been ordered!

I was just wondering if anyone has any tips/advice on how to fit it, its not covered in the Varley manual, but looks pretty straight forward. This is what i was gonna go with:

Remove pedal box cover
Remove bolts from underside of pedal box to allow better access
Drain clutch fluid
Remove old cylinder
Replace with new one and refit everything!

Anyone do it differently? Do I need to take the pedal box off?

Any help greatly appreciated, Ill take some photos as I go and put a guide up after if people are interested.

Many thanks

Dan

[Walford]

reset pedal travel stop, if you open the clutch to wide even once, its fooked

[Tuscandan]

How do I know where to set it to? Is it a job best left to a garage or is it achievable at home?

Cheers
Dan

[Basil Brush]

You can do it in the car, it's just a bit fiddly. In terms of adjustment, start on the safe side and adjust until the clutch just releases when fully pressed.

[Tuscandan]

Do I adjust the push rod on the cylinder itself or the rubber bung behind the pedal? Also, at the risk of sounding stupid, how do I know when the clutch is open? I'm guessing this is done without the engine running?

Cheers
Dan

[Walford]

the travel is set by one of the bolts (3) that retains the ali cover

if you were sat in the car without the engine running in first gear, slowly depress the clutch, with someone trying to push the car forward, as soon as the car starts to move the clutch is open

start with the stop bolt 10mm out from were is was

[Tuscandan]

Cheers walford, I'll give it a go tomorrow.

[Walford]

I use a halfords presure bleed and connect it to old inner tube with about 8psi in
you may as well change the brake fluid at the same time