MTB Predicament

[Yazza54]

Following on from my thread

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...


I bought the S works in the end and love it but I'm finding the thing really difficult to ride at any speed. I find my stty old hardtail Marin easier and much faster to ride. However I am unfit and haven't probably given it the chance it deserves.

I really don't know what to do, I quite like the idea of building a custom hardtail from the fancy bits on the S works and flogging anything I don't need, such as the rear fox shock.

Was wondering if getting a later S works enduro carbon frame somehow, maybe 2nd hand? and swapping the bits over but I think the rear suspension is an issue too as I'm bouncing around.

Anyone had the same kind of experience? Love the bike just find it a bit of a tank. Anyone built their own have any advice?

[BOBTEE]

Spend some time playing around with the rear shock, sounds like you don't have enough rebound damping. Mojo worked wonders on mine, not cheap though.

[duff]

I think a shorter stem would help. I had one in 2006 and it's the only bike I regret selling and was probably the most enjoyable bike to ride fast I've ever had - perhaps my Canyon is a little better as things have moved on since then (tapered headtube, bolt through rear etc)

Is the shock set up properly? The 2005-6 Enduro was considered one of the best bikes of it's era by MBR. I sold my upgraded S-Works in 2007 for £1200 so they're holding their value well!

[Yazza54]

BOBTEE said:

Spend some time playing around with the rear shock, sounds like you don't have enough rebound damping. Mojo worked wonders on mine, not cheap though.

I've probably by no means found the sweet spot but I have wound it up to the max to get rid out the bounce and also wound the pro pedal up. Still seems to take a lot of effort to get the thing moving compared to what I'm used to.

[Mr Gearchange]

Apologies if this is somewhat uninformed but are you riding it where it's intended to be ridden?

You have got a go-anywhere all-mountain machine. On anything that isn't 'quite difficult to ride' a hard tail will be quicker, it's not a bike for fire roads and towpaths..

If you can find a rough rocky steep downhill, full or ruts, holes and jumps this thing will carry unbelievable speed down it. It will shrug off terrain that you wouldn't even countenance riding on a hard tail.

Horses for courses.

ETA. Shorter stem and wider bars will help enormously with confidence on faster and rougher stuff.

Edited by Mr Gearchange on Monday 13th May 16:03

[Yazza54]

Mr Gearchange said:

Apologies if this is somewhat uninformed but are you riding it where it's intended to be ridden?

You have got a go-anywhere all-mountain machine. On anything that isn't 'quite difficult to ride' a hard tail will be quicker, it's not a bike for fire roads and towpaths..

If you can find a rough rocky steep downhill, full or ruts, holes and jumps this thing will carry unbelievable speed down it. It will shrug off terrain that you wouldn't even countenance riding on a hard tail.

Horses for courses.

ETA. Shorter stem and wider bars will help enormously with confidence on faster and rougher stuff.

Edited by Mr Gearchange on Monday 13th May 16:03

Hmm this is probably the problem, I bought it to ride some trails with the GF to get fit, I'm by no means a downhill racer and on anything other than rough downhill stuff the bike makes no sense. I got drawn in by the spec I could have for the money but for the kind of riding I'm doing I'm starting to think it's the wrong bike.

Now I think the only way I can economically end up with the right bike and not lose a shedload of money is to buy a frame and break the S works. I really don't want to do that but would probably end up with a better bike out of the Sworks parts on a lighter hardtail frame?? Argh.

[Yazza54]

Something like these?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400480158446?ssPageName=...


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261210779833?ssPageName=...

[duff]

In that case sell the bike as is. You won't be able to use that fork on a hardtail (well, not many) and you're left with a load of parts that may not all fit, might need work (brake bleeds etc).

I'd sell the S-Works for roughly what you paid and buy a short travel full suss or a 29er hardtail.

[Mr Gearchange]

Yazza54 said:

Mr Gearchange said:

Apologies if this is somewhat uninformed but are you riding it where it's intended to be ridden?

You have got a go-anywhere all-mountain machine. On anything that isn't 'quite difficult to ride' a hard tail will be quicker, it's not a bike for fire roads and towpaths..

If you can find a rough rocky steep downhill, full or ruts, holes and jumps this thing will carry unbelievable speed down it. It will shrug off terrain that you wouldn't even countenance riding on a hard tail.

Horses for courses.

ETA. Shorter stem and wider bars will help enormously with confidence on faster and rougher stuff.

Edited by Mr Gearchange on Monday 13th May 16:03

Hmm this is probably the problem, I bought it to ride some trails with the GF to get fit, I'm by no means a downhill racer and on anything other than rough downhill stuff the bike makes no sense. I got drawn in by the spec I could have for the money but for the kind of riding I'm doing I'm starting to think it's the wrong bike.

Now I think the only way I can economically end up with the right bike and not lose a shedload of money is to buy a frame and break the S works. I really don't want to do that but would probably end up with a better bike out of the Sworks parts on a lighter hardtail frame?? Argh.

No no no.
Start riding it in less ghey places. Find somewhere terrifying that makes you think 'no way am I riding down that'. Then ride down it. Then keep doing it faster and faster. It will have you grinning fromear to ear and buzzing to do it again and again until A&E beckons.

You know this makes sense.

[.Adam.]

Can't see what Maxxis tyres you have fitted, but it might be worth having a look at them? When I went from Continental Gravity to Maxxis High Rollers, on a road section following some mates who I can normally keep up with no problem, I thought I was ill or something, it was such hard work compared to what I was used to, and that wasn't even with the super tacky version they do!

[Yazza54]

.Adam. said:

Can't see what Maxxis tyres you have fitted, but it might be worth having a look at them? When I went from Continental Gravity to Maxxis High Rollers, on a road section following some mates who I can normally keep up with no problem, I thought I was ill or something, it was such hard work compared to what I was used to, and that wasn't even with the super tacky version they do!

They are very soft compound the tyres

[.Adam.]

I've currently got Schwalbe Nobby Nics, which seem to roll quite well, I even found my Maxxis Medusas to roll better on the road than my High Rollers!

[Yazza54]

Maxxis maxxpro

[duff]

They are minions, try something faster like crossmarks.

[dogbucket]

As per the other opinions that is a fairly burly build.

Minons are great tyres (I run them on my AM bike) but check you have the single ply verion rather than the full on DH dual ply. Could be alot of weight there to get spinning up otherwise.

[Vladimir]

I have a Cotic Soul with all blingy parts and its superb. The bits mostly came off a Stumpy HT which I had tried to make too XC and while fast, it was a major handful on anything technical or DH.

Stuck wider tyres and bars, a shorter stem onto the Soul and its become a truly do it all bike. I'd take a similar route; if you're heavy, get a Cotic BFe instead. It really has put the fun back into riding!

[Yazza54]

dogbucket said:

As per the other opinions that is a fairly burly build.

Minons are great tyres (I run them on my AM bike) but check you have the single ply verion rather than the full on DH dual ply. Could be alot of weight there to get spinning up otherwise.

They are Maxxis maxxpro 60a minion DH F 26x2.35

[dave_s13]

I'm no expert but it seems easy to go from one extreme to the other.

My new bike (as pictured in your other thread) is a Scott Scale Elite 29er


Scott Scale Elite 29er

Now, it's fast and climbs like nobodies business, the only thing slowing it down is me really.

The trouble is, over a rough surface it transmits every lump, bump, ripple and pebble directly into your brain. I was flying down a very dry rutted section the other week and I couldn't see after a while, even got a but of arm pump the shakes were so bad. I don't know if it's a case of MTFU but it's kinda not fun sometimes. Maybe my shock is set up wrong though I don't know.

Anyway, one of the lads we ride with has one of these

Scott Spark Elite 2012

He still keeps up in the main (flags behind a bit at the end), but again the only thing slowing it down is his fitness really. It does seem perfectly suited to XC where you tend to smash it through some pretty rough stuff.

I'd be tempted by something like that when it's new bike time again in a couple of years.

Oh and for those of you not on the youtube thread I found this chaps uphill "downhill" section rather spectacular to behold. I wish I could do that!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hINNMpfIxs

Edited by dave_s13 on Monday 13th May 20:32

[BOBTEE]

I ride a Lapierre Spicy 316, it has 160mm of travel, I did the C2C on it last year, I'm riding Leeds to Liverpool on the canal this year on it and I chuck it around Gisburn all the time! Don't blame the bike!

Mojo changed the damping on mine, I can whack the pressure right up, in effect increasing the spring rate, and still have plenty of damping. I don't have any 'bob' on mine now but it still soaks up bumps with ease... send your shock off for a tune

[ism123]

By the sounds of it you bought the wrong bike. Perhaps a hardtail would be more suitable for your type of terrain.

Or, get the GF one like yours and go off-roading. If she hates it swop her for a different model.