Discussion
Yes and yes!!!
I've done mine recently and am still putting it back together, although, I have done several things at the same time!!!
You'll need a decent socket set, some heavy duty allen keys and a set of decent spanners.
As for parts, you'll need:
New valley gasket
New rocker gaskets (x2)
Two new rubber end seals.
Two new bolts with new spring washers to each end seal.
A set of injector O'ring seals
Various Jubilee clips
Tube of Sikaflex
Tube of Mylomar Blue
Small bottle of Loctite
Plastic ties
Coolant
Recommended things to replace/ check:
8mm Fuel pipes that run from the fuel rail on the drivers side down between the engine and the bulk head. There is also a two inch (length) of 8mm fuel pipe that is fitted to the fuel rail nest to the regulator that you should do at the same time!
Thermostat and thermostat gasket - you have the intake manifold off, so you may as well change it!
Check the 16mm heater hoses that run from the heater rail, down between the engine and the bulkhead into the passenger footwell. May be worth replacing.
Whilst off, I also purchased a thermal gasket to sit between the manifold and trumpet base (reduces heat transfer) and I replaced my standard TVR trumpets for some flared ones.
As you've also drained the coolant, it may be worth looking at changing a few coolant hoses at the same time.
Finally, you may also want to clean quite a few things whilst it is all off. I cleaned and painted my intake manifold, plus descaled the fuel rail and distributor etc.
My main tip is to use your phone or a cheap camera and take photographs of everything as you remove them. Photograph the bolts/ nuts as you remove them and then place them into envelopes (or something similar) and label where they came from. Makes reassembly a little less confusing.
As for parts. John Zubak sells good quality braided brake hoses. Due to budget, I purchased the standard 8mm fuel hose and have chosen to protect it with some heat shield instead. Rimmer Bros do the composite valley gasket and the various nuts at a reasonable price. For the thermostat, you'll have to use a TVR specialist for a large bore version, although the gaskets are the same for all types. Silicone hoses are straight forward and there are tons for sale on Fleabay at reasonable prices, but if you want the complete kit without thinking, you can purchase it from ACT along with the trumpet base thermal gasket! Although I don't think the ACT kit includes the two 16mm straight hoses you need for the heater rail. I purchase my stuff from Fleabay.
Good luck, its a pain in the @rse, but you'll learn a lot from it!
I've done mine recently and am still putting it back together, although, I have done several things at the same time!!!
You'll need a decent socket set, some heavy duty allen keys and a set of decent spanners.
As for parts, you'll need:
New valley gasket
New rocker gaskets (x2)
Two new rubber end seals.
Two new bolts with new spring washers to each end seal.
A set of injector O'ring seals
Various Jubilee clips
Tube of Sikaflex
Tube of Mylomar Blue
Small bottle of Loctite
Plastic ties
Coolant
Recommended things to replace/ check:
8mm Fuel pipes that run from the fuel rail on the drivers side down between the engine and the bulk head. There is also a two inch (length) of 8mm fuel pipe that is fitted to the fuel rail nest to the regulator that you should do at the same time!
Thermostat and thermostat gasket - you have the intake manifold off, so you may as well change it!
Check the 16mm heater hoses that run from the heater rail, down between the engine and the bulkhead into the passenger footwell. May be worth replacing.
Whilst off, I also purchased a thermal gasket to sit between the manifold and trumpet base (reduces heat transfer) and I replaced my standard TVR trumpets for some flared ones.
As you've also drained the coolant, it may be worth looking at changing a few coolant hoses at the same time.
Finally, you may also want to clean quite a few things whilst it is all off. I cleaned and painted my intake manifold, plus descaled the fuel rail and distributor etc.
My main tip is to use your phone or a cheap camera and take photographs of everything as you remove them. Photograph the bolts/ nuts as you remove them and then place them into envelopes (or something similar) and label where they came from. Makes reassembly a little less confusing.
As for parts. John Zubak sells good quality braided brake hoses. Due to budget, I purchased the standard 8mm fuel hose and have chosen to protect it with some heat shield instead. Rimmer Bros do the composite valley gasket and the various nuts at a reasonable price. For the thermostat, you'll have to use a TVR specialist for a large bore version, although the gaskets are the same for all types. Silicone hoses are straight forward and there are tons for sale on Fleabay at reasonable prices, but if you want the complete kit without thinking, you can purchase it from ACT along with the trumpet base thermal gasket! Although I don't think the ACT kit includes the two 16mm straight hoses you need for the heater rail. I purchase my stuff from Fleabay.
Good luck, its a pain in the @rse, but you'll learn a lot from it!
Edited by chris1972 on Tuesday 14th May 11:19
I am doing the head gaskets on my RV8, plus the valley gasket.
If you want to keep the job to a minimum you can remove the intake manifold complete with plenum.
You need to take off the injector loom clips to gain access to the bolt heads. Then you can get in with a spanner from the side.
For big jobs I use an old seedling tray with 20-30 compartments and put the bolts into the compartments in groups - stops you losing them.
For reassembly if you do it this way you won't be able to use a torque wrench with a socket - not enough room - so torqueing will be by hand and feel (the old fashioned way ;^)
When ordering the valley gasket be aware there are two styles for the end rubber seals I have the wrong more modern ones with my kit (which will be for sale) but luckily the old ones are supple enough to re-use.
If you want to keep the job to a minimum you can remove the intake manifold complete with plenum.
You need to take off the injector loom clips to gain access to the bolt heads. Then you can get in with a spanner from the side.
For big jobs I use an old seedling tray with 20-30 compartments and put the bolts into the compartments in groups - stops you losing them.
For reassembly if you do it this way you won't be able to use a torque wrench with a socket - not enough room - so torqueing will be by hand and feel (the old fashioned way ;^)
When ordering the valley gasket be aware there are two styles for the end rubber seals I have the wrong more modern ones with my kit (which will be for sale) but luckily the old ones are supple enough to re-use.
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