Cam change diy?
Discussion
You rang!
Car lifted on 4 axle stands
Rear ARB off
Whole exhaust off, (some can leave it on, mine had to come off)
Y piece off
Drain down all water
Remove dizzy, swirl tank, front chassis cross member, all front hoses, idler wheel or P/S pump, tensioner wheel, all inlet stuff, plenum, trumpet base, fuel rail, injectors, metal heater pipes, both rocker boxes, inlet manifold, both sets of rockers, both sets of pushrods, hydraulic lifters, crank pulley, front timing cover, timing chain and sprockets, plugs and anything I’ve missed!
You can then withdraw the cam and replace.
Set up dial gauge and establish TDC
Use dial gauge again to establish exact cam timing, (this takes at least an hour)
Reassemble everything which takes 3 times as long as you are cleaning up gasket faces etc
Fill up with water, new antifreeze
Time dizzy in and do correct timing with timing gun.
Also, as with mine, you will probably have to remove the sump and renew the gasket as it is difficult to achieve a good seal once this has been disturbed at the front, (timing cover) end!
Car lifted on 4 axle stands
Rear ARB off
Whole exhaust off, (some can leave it on, mine had to come off)
Y piece off
Drain down all water
Remove dizzy, swirl tank, front chassis cross member, all front hoses, idler wheel or P/S pump, tensioner wheel, all inlet stuff, plenum, trumpet base, fuel rail, injectors, metal heater pipes, both rocker boxes, inlet manifold, both sets of rockers, both sets of pushrods, hydraulic lifters, crank pulley, front timing cover, timing chain and sprockets, plugs and anything I’ve missed!
You can then withdraw the cam and replace.
Set up dial gauge and establish TDC
Use dial gauge again to establish exact cam timing, (this takes at least an hour)
Reassemble everything which takes 3 times as long as you are cleaning up gasket faces etc
Fill up with water, new antifreeze
Time dizzy in and do correct timing with timing gun.
Also, as with mine, you will probably have to remove the sump and renew the gasket as it is difficult to achieve a good seal once this has been disturbed at the front, (timing cover) end!
See, for a novice like me that's a hell of a list, I wept a little
I foolishly thought it would be like 'normal' cars. I few bolts and the cam cover is removed, exposing the cam ready to be whipped out and replaced.
Also had the realisation of what I was asking a good group of chaps to do over a weekend and for nothing but meat and cider
My car has been away for 3 and a weeks now for cam change
To be fair though, she is having a few other bits done 
I foolishly thought it would be like 'normal' cars. I few bolts and the cam cover is removed, exposing the cam ready to be whipped out and replaced.Also had the realisation of what I was asking a good group of chaps to do over a weekend and for nothing but meat and cider

My car has been away for 3 and a weeks now for cam change
To be fair though, she is having a few other bits done Edited by ybt1982 on Thursday 16th May 09:19
phazed said:
You rang!
Car lifted on 4 axle stands
Rear ARB off
Whole exhaust off, (some can leave it on, mine had to come off)
Y piece off
Drain down all water
Remove dizzy, swirl tank, front chassis cross member, all front hoses, idler wheel or P/S pump, tensioner wheel, all inlet stuff, plenum, trumpet base, fuel rail, injectors, metal heater pipes, both rocker boxes, inlet manifold, both sets of rockers, both sets of pushrods, hydraulic lifters, crank pulley, front timing cover, timing chain and sprockets, plugs and anything I’ve missed!
You can then withdraw the cam and replace.
Set up dial gauge and establish TDC
Use dial gauge again to establish exact cam timing, (this takes at least an hour)
Reassemble everything which takes 3 times as long as you are cleaning up gasket faces etc
Fill up with water, new antifreeze
Time dizzy in and do correct timing with timing gun.
Also, as with mine, you will probably have to remove the sump and renew the gasket as it is difficult to achieve a good seal once this has been disturbed at the front, (timing cover) end!
Does the pre-load not need setting up too?Car lifted on 4 axle stands
Rear ARB off
Whole exhaust off, (some can leave it on, mine had to come off)
Y piece off
Drain down all water
Remove dizzy, swirl tank, front chassis cross member, all front hoses, idler wheel or P/S pump, tensioner wheel, all inlet stuff, plenum, trumpet base, fuel rail, injectors, metal heater pipes, both rocker boxes, inlet manifold, both sets of rockers, both sets of pushrods, hydraulic lifters, crank pulley, front timing cover, timing chain and sprockets, plugs and anything I’ve missed!
You can then withdraw the cam and replace.
Set up dial gauge and establish TDC
Use dial gauge again to establish exact cam timing, (this takes at least an hour)
Reassemble everything which takes 3 times as long as you are cleaning up gasket faces etc
Fill up with water, new antifreeze
Time dizzy in and do correct timing with timing gun.
Also, as with mine, you will probably have to remove the sump and renew the gasket as it is difficult to achieve a good seal once this has been disturbed at the front, (timing cover) end!
ybt1982 said:
See, for a novice like me that's a hell of a list, I wept a little
I foolishly thought it would be like 'normal' cars. I few bolts and the cam cover is removed, exposing the cam ready to be whipped out and replaced.
Also had the realisation of what I was asking a good group of chaps to do over a weekend and for nothing but meat and cider
Wow I think this post just nailed it on the head what I was thinking while reading it...
I foolishly thought it would be like 'normal' cars. I few bolts and the cam cover is removed, exposing the cam ready to be whipped out and replaced.Also had the realisation of what I was asking a good group of chaps to do over a weekend and for nothing but meat and cider

Edited by ybt1982 on Thursday 16th May 09:19
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