3000m engine and box removal
Discussion
Hello all,
I am looking for some guidance,
I need to remove engine (v6) and gearbox from car.
Can I lift it out complete with manifolds and all ancillaries or do I need to strip bits off first ?
I figure on;
Removing prop
Speedo drive
Reverse switch
Gearbox mount bolts
Engine mount bolts
Petrol pipe to pump
Earth straps
Temp cable
Choke
Accelerator
Water hoses
I have an early " low" rad. As the chassis is the same height I figure I only need to remove the hoses and the reservoir from in front, everything else looks like it has clearance
And while I am seeking help, I will need to remove the bonnet, but it doesn't seem as straight forward as at first appears...
I am looking for some guidance,
I need to remove engine (v6) and gearbox from car.
Can I lift it out complete with manifolds and all ancillaries or do I need to strip bits off first ?
I figure on;
Removing prop
Speedo drive
Reverse switch
Gearbox mount bolts
Engine mount bolts
Petrol pipe to pump
Earth straps
Temp cable
Choke
Accelerator
Water hoses
I have an early " low" rad. As the chassis is the same height I figure I only need to remove the hoses and the reservoir from in front, everything else looks like it has clearance
And while I am seeking help, I will need to remove the bonnet, but it doesn't seem as straight forward as at first appears...
Remove all from around the engine, also the rad (as, once at it in anger you might touch/damage, and its only few bolts) same goes for the wheelarches (providing its not the very early non removable ones) giving you better access to work and again only a few bolts.
Perhaps its better to remove the gear-box prior engine removal ?
As for the bonnet, disconnect (and label....) all electrix, hosery if fitted, then rest the bonnet on its rear pins, put a jack under the front cross-beam of the bonnet(with some protection for the paint), jack up slightly, remove the bolts from the hinge bolts, open and hold the bonnet (2 persons) remove the bolts and carry the bonnet away
Perhaps its better to remove the gear-box prior engine removal ?
As for the bonnet, disconnect (and label....) all electrix, hosery if fitted, then rest the bonnet on its rear pins, put a jack under the front cross-beam of the bonnet(with some protection for the paint), jack up slightly, remove the bolts from the hinge bolts, open and hold the bonnet (2 persons) remove the bolts and carry the bonnet away
Hello , your feedback is encouraging !
I am trying to get the gearbox out for refurb, I figured lifting both engine and box as one would be easier than to just remove the gearbox.
In crawling around under the car I figured to just remove the box on its own will need me to remove the manifolds which I want to avoid, I also probably wouldn't have the clearance once the gearbox was dropped.
And I also want a quick turnaround on the work as it's a daily driver and I can't afford to keep it off the road for long.
For the bonnet; I have the large threaded bolt going into the bonnet frame and I have the hinge on the chassis, do I remove the hinge or the threaded bolt? I cannot see how the hinge comes apart.... I also have a problem with the large bolt...one of them is bent, looks like a deliberate bodge to get the bonnet to fit...
I am trying to get the gearbox out for refurb, I figured lifting both engine and box as one would be easier than to just remove the gearbox.
In crawling around under the car I figured to just remove the box on its own will need me to remove the manifolds which I want to avoid, I also probably wouldn't have the clearance once the gearbox was dropped.
And I also want a quick turnaround on the work as it's a daily driver and I can't afford to keep it off the road for long.
For the bonnet; I have the large threaded bolt going into the bonnet frame and I have the hinge on the chassis, do I remove the hinge or the threaded bolt? I cannot see how the hinge comes apart.... I also have a problem with the large bolt...one of them is bent, looks like a deliberate bodge to get the bonnet to fit...
Honestly, while trying to simplify you are complicating matters, and it will take more work (read; time) to do it.
If its the gearbox at fault, take out the gear-box, and if so possible, have a reconned one at the ready to go straight in so to prevent inmobility
re the bonnet; the bolt going in the chassis (square sectioned) at the hinge must come out (otherwise post a pic, Thousand words and al that...)
grtz
Frank
If its the gearbox at fault, take out the gear-box, and if so possible, have a reconned one at the ready to go straight in so to prevent inmobility
re the bonnet; the bolt going in the chassis (square sectioned) at the hinge must come out (otherwise post a pic, Thousand words and al that...)
grtz
Frank
I would only remove the gearbox if thats all you want to repair. removing the engine and gearbox together seems a bit drastic especially as you want to do the job quickly. Manifold removeal shouldnt cause you a problem plenty of penetrating oil the night before you start and 12 bolts.
Chris
Chris
as Chris says, gearbox only ! have the single gearbox-mount ready to change whilst you are there (pig to change as long as the gearbox is in place), and if I where you i would change the clutch plate in one go as well !
You might wanna order some exhaust mounting rubbers too (Adrian@exactly TVR is the man to speak to......for all the parts)
Kindly report progress (pref with some pics, watch and learn, you get my drift...)
You might wanna order some exhaust mounting rubbers too (Adrian@exactly TVR is the man to speak to......for all the parts)
Kindly report progress (pref with some pics, watch and learn, you get my drift...)
Sorted the bonnet last night, the bent bolt was straightened only to discover why it had been bent in the first place, a replacement bonnet frame has been glassed onto the bonnet and it is not quite where the original was so the bolt had to be bent to compensate for the difference. The bolts used on the chassis were too long and had nuts as spacers hence it looked a lot more complex than it turned out to be !
I got it all back together and adjusted the gaps, and it's better than before !
Back to the engine and box; I figured both out at the same time would be the safest.
May have a go at the weekend... Or am I going on a family jaunt somewhere ?? Sigh
I got it all back together and adjusted the gaps, and it's better than before !
Back to the engine and box; I figured both out at the same time would be the safest.
May have a go at the weekend... Or am I going on a family jaunt somewhere ?? Sigh
laikathedog said:
I hear there was a Haynes gearbox book, but cannot find one online
Try and find a Haynes manual for a mass production vehicle that would of had that gearbox (Capri 3.0/Granada mk1 at a guess).I have two Haynes Sierra manuals (type 9 five speed box), one covers dismantling gearbox quite well with plenty of photo's other just says "refer to specialists for gearbox repairs"
Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 28th May 11:06
If all else fails, I do have available for sale, a gearbox out of my 3000S, which has only done about 20K since being rebuilt by Adrian. I took it out to fit a T5, a good conversion, but not cheap.
When I was tidying the garage on Sunday I thought that I should really advertise it, and the 2000E box I had as a spare for the Vixen.
SteveD
When I was tidying the garage on Sunday I thought that I should really advertise it, and the 2000E box I had as a spare for the Vixen.
SteveD
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