How on earth...
Discussion
...am I gonna get my diff sealed.
It has always leaked a little and after replacing all seals I finally found out why - the oil seems to be escaping through the adjustment screw thread (passenger side). Now, back after I figured this out I simply cleaned it up to get through the pending MOT intending to tackle it later but oops...I forgot about it and this weekend, a month later, my garage floor is showing no signs of oil leakage and the diff has started to whine.
Okay, so I have obviously lost all the oil but I don't want to just replace teh oil each month (obviously) so what now? Can anyone let me know the best way to reseal the diff on this screw thread area. Is it literally a case of drop the drive shaft, unscrew the adjuster (counting the rotations) PTFE tape and screw back up? If so, can I do that in situ or must the diff come out? What other methods may work?
Stewart
It has always leaked a little and after replacing all seals I finally found out why - the oil seems to be escaping through the adjustment screw thread (passenger side). Now, back after I figured this out I simply cleaned it up to get through the pending MOT intending to tackle it later but oops...I forgot about it and this weekend, a month later, my garage floor is showing no signs of oil leakage and the diff has started to whine.
Okay, so I have obviously lost all the oil but I don't want to just replace teh oil each month (obviously) so what now? Can anyone let me know the best way to reseal the diff on this screw thread area. Is it literally a case of drop the drive shaft, unscrew the adjuster (counting the rotations) PTFE tape and screw back up? If so, can I do that in situ or must the diff come out? What other methods may work?
Stewart
UPDATE:
Checked and cleaned the breather, refilled with oil, checked the gearbox (oil level was okay) and the engine oil has been topped up. The thing still whines but now it has started to sound more like a supercharger. It is definitely engine speed dependent. Any ideas? Could this be the PAS pump? Alternator? Water pump?
Help
Checked and cleaned the breather, refilled with oil, checked the gearbox (oil level was okay) and the engine oil has been topped up. The thing still whines but now it has started to sound more like a supercharger. It is definitely engine speed dependent. Any ideas? Could this be the PAS pump? Alternator? Water pump?
Help

Take the drive belt off http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfIg2afMts8 and run the motor briefly followed by turning each ancillary in turn to see what's creating the noise 

estutjaweh said:
I'll try all of that later thanks. I'm just worried that the repetitive belt removal in recent months has caused the waterpump bearing to go. According to a friend many car firms always replace the waterpump with the belt now simply as a matter of course. Bugger I hope its not that.
You are being stupid.... The water pump is probably the cheapest & easiest candidate to replace in that area (even cheaper than a new belt!) so would be a good result. The pump is pretty solid and your friend is talking b
ks in connection with the RV8 ~ it does not really have that much in common with modern shoe-horned engine bays and components designed to fatten service department wallets in lieu of sales prices
(never mind the carbon foot prints that all the new components have compared to the minimal emissions differences they achieve!)A long stick of wood placed to the ear & carefully pressed against components is probably the easiest way to isolate which ancillary is at fault IMHO. Wood always seems to work better than metal IME. Just run briefly with the belt off first to see if the noise goes away then you can either start tracking down the auxiliary components or look elsewhere depending on the outcome.
The wine could be your PS pump - mine used to do this until i replaced it as it started to drive me insane - the warmer the system the worse the noise.
Normally pretty robust units, but if you run them dry or have a leak (in my case seals went) the unit runs dry & wears rapidly as a consequence
Normally pretty robust units, but if you run them dry or have a leak (in my case seals went) the unit runs dry & wears rapidly as a consequence
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here you go (of course I am presuming your is in this location the GKN diff uses 2 different rear covers
) Dave
help 
