Discussion
really 
dont remember using a long reach one. I bought mine off the shelf at halfwits and "think" it was 15lbs rating. Fellow PHer kindly sent me a bit of cut out bicycle inner tube as the second washer to use on the swirl tank. (oh no, which tank should the pressure cap be on argument ensuing)
dont remember using a long reach one. I bought mine off the shelf at halfwits and "think" it was 15lbs rating. Fellow PHer kindly sent me a bit of cut out bicycle inner tube as the second washer to use on the swirl tank. (oh no, which tank should the pressure cap be on argument ensuing)
shnozz said:
really
dont remember using a long reach one. I bought mine off the shelf at halfwits and "think" it was 15lbs rating. Fellow PHer kindly sent me a bit of cut out bicycle inner tube as the second washer to use on the swirl tank. (oh no, which tank should the pressure cap be on argument ensuing)
That's exactly what I did. It was probably the same PHer who sent me my washer. Actually I later modified the rad cap, by taking it apart. Seems to work fine now.
Could hear the water bubbling away in the expansion tank after the ignition was switched off.WildfireS3 said:
Could hear the water bubbling away in the expansion tank after the ignition was switched off.
Oh, is this bad?
dont think it makes much difference, I assume it gets sucked back into the system, just that it started doing it when the cap got tired so I swapped it for a new one.
Oops, what have I done!
For the record mine is set up to have the pressure cap on the swirl tank. The expansion tank is therefor unpressurised. If the pressure builds up sufficiently the steam will escape past the seal (held by cap spring pressure) and via a tube to the bottom of the expansion tank. The expansion tank is vented to atmosfere via a tube so that it overflows to the road. The idea is that if the steam enters the expansion tank the cool liquid in there condenses the steam. When the system cools and the pressure drops below atmosphereic the liquid is sucked back to the swirl tank via the same tube and through the one way valve in the pressure cap.
My cap is leaking excessively such that the steam is not condensing in the expansion tank and is going overboard. On cooling it runs out of liquid to suck back into the cooling tank and sucks air, hense low coolant level. I have tried cleaning the sealing faces but suspect that the spring is weak. I may try increasing the spring pressure somehow but this is a bit of a bodge. It is important to make sure that the replacement cap is of the correct rating 15psi and that it has the extra one way valve. This valve is the extra metal disk in the middle of the rubber seal. You can pull on it to see how it works. Only a cap designed for this unpressurised expansion tank system will have this valve.
This is how TVR intended the system to be and is how mine is but it can be modified to work differently ie pressurised expansion tank and hence to ongoing debates!
Hope this clears this all up and thanks to anybody who can identify the cap correctly for me.
PHEW!!
P.S. I know I cannot spell!
For the record mine is set up to have the pressure cap on the swirl tank. The expansion tank is therefor unpressurised. If the pressure builds up sufficiently the steam will escape past the seal (held by cap spring pressure) and via a tube to the bottom of the expansion tank. The expansion tank is vented to atmosfere via a tube so that it overflows to the road. The idea is that if the steam enters the expansion tank the cool liquid in there condenses the steam. When the system cools and the pressure drops below atmosphereic the liquid is sucked back to the swirl tank via the same tube and through the one way valve in the pressure cap.
My cap is leaking excessively such that the steam is not condensing in the expansion tank and is going overboard. On cooling it runs out of liquid to suck back into the cooling tank and sucks air, hense low coolant level. I have tried cleaning the sealing faces but suspect that the spring is weak. I may try increasing the spring pressure somehow but this is a bit of a bodge. It is important to make sure that the replacement cap is of the correct rating 15psi and that it has the extra one way valve. This valve is the extra metal disk in the middle of the rubber seal. You can pull on it to see how it works. Only a cap designed for this unpressurised expansion tank system will have this valve.
This is how TVR intended the system to be and is how mine is but it can be modified to work differently ie pressurised expansion tank and hence to ongoing debates!
Hope this clears this all up and thanks to anybody who can identify the cap correctly for me.
PHEW!!
P.S. I know I cannot spell!
Went to Halfrauds with the origional cap and picked one out that is 15lbs and looks the same. Their code is HRC609. Not yet put it on the car yet to try it as it won't stop pissing it down! BTW I made that bit about the one way valve up. They all need it in order not to end up with a partial vacuum inside after a boil over!
Regards
Regards
sean737 said:
Went to Halfrauds with the origional cap and picked one out that is 15lbs and looks the same. Their code is HRC609. Not yet put it on the car yet to try it as it won't stop pissing it down! BTW I made that bit about the one way valve up. They all need it in order not to end up with a partial vacuum inside after a boil over!
Regards
So, where would you fit that on the swirl or.....
kentishs2 said:
Went to Halfrauds with the origional cap and picked one out that is 15lbs and looks the same. Their code is HRC609. Not yet put it on the car yet to try it as it won't stop pissing it down! BTW I made that bit about the one way valve up. They all need it in order not to end up with a partial vacuum inside after a boil over!
Regards
So, where would you fit that on the swirl or.....
Bug
r he did it again!sean737 said:Can't say I'm the best auto-electrician, hence the crimps - I'd rather have soldered, but didn't have a gas soldering iron
Did some rewiring the other day (try not to be rude about the fitter of my stereo ) and discovered straight away that the wiring diagram is a very rough guide!
Hope all was OK? Err wiring diagram yeah the one in the manual has a vague resenblance, but otherwise is a little useless!Did you find a live feed the ignition as I hoped to wire the stereo to one to save power while in the garage, but during my tests I found both power feeds were direct from battery
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