Sump plug stuck

[Stuw84]

Hi tried to do an overdue oil change on my wife's Ka and have been unable to remove the sump plug. Basically the plug is rounded now. I have tried it when the engine was hot and cold and while spraying plus gas on it, but it won't budge. I bought some irwin bolt grips and had a go late yesterday evening but figured I probably need to take the wheel off to get better access so decided to leave it for now. My dad has said he could weld a big nut on to help get it off. The thing that worries me if its this tight could the threads be ruined and best leave it in? When I've come across cross threaded nuts before they just keep spinning after stripping the thread but this is stuck solid?
Any suggestions appreciated.

[Jazoli]

Welding a nut on will probably work fine, the heat generated by the welding will help free the sump plug, or just leave it in situ and buy a vacuum oil extractor

[oakdale]

Grip the collar of the plug (not the damaged hex) with a pair of round jaw vise grips and it will come undone.

[SuperchargedVR6]

If it comes to it, I can't imagine a new sump for a Ka costing a lot? But if you have a welder handy, that's always the best thing to try first.

I sometimes wonder if mechanics air gun sump plugs back on. There's no need for them to be tightened so hard. Either that or some swarf may have got in the threads on the last oil change.

[Nick1point9]

SuperchargedVR6 said:

I sometimes wonder if mechanics air gun sump plugs back on.

It's not something I ever saw in garages, nor did I ever hear any anecdotes to suggest others had seen it.

Re sump, there are loads on ebay around £30-40 for a brand new one, so wouldn't worry if it is cross threaded.

[HustleRussell]

Plumber's Stilsons.

[Crashy]

Hammer and chisel on the flat part below the socket head and beat it round anti clockwise. The shock will help to break the threads free. Best to use a new bung and washer afterwards.

[Stuw84]

Thanks for suggestions so far but I was thinking however I eventually get a good enough grip on the plug to apply enough force to finally move it, would it actually damage the thread removing it? Could it be damaged by being this tight or should it still be ok as if it was crossed threaded etc it would simply spin fairly freely? If its too much of risk trying to remove it I would rather pump the oil out as the although the sump maybe cheap to buy as suggusted it seems a pretty big job on a Ka to replace.

[HustleRussell]

how did it 'feel' when you got it moving? did it free up and turn smoothly once you had it cracked off?

[smartphone hater]

Stuw84 said:

Thanks for suggestions so far but I was thinking however I eventually get a good enough grip on the plug to apply enough force to finally move it, would it actually damage the thread removing it? Could it be damaged by being this tight or should it still be ok as if it was crossed threaded etc it would simply spin fairly freely? If its too much of risk trying to remove it I would rather pump the oil out as the although the sump maybe cheap to buy as suggusted it seems a pretty big job on a Ka to replace.

The thread will be fine. When you do get it out replace it with a new sump plug, they're only a few quid.

[Stuw84]

Sorry for the confusion in my last post the problem is I don't think I've managed to move the plug at all, feels like its welded solid to the sump. The concern I had was if I did manage to move it (by using one of the methods mentioned by other posters) it I'll end up ruining the thread in the sump.
The more I tried the more it rounded. I drew a tipex line on it now so next go I can see if it moves at all.
I do have a new sump plug ready which I bought from Ford for over £8!

[Krikkit]

I would give up and put a new sump on - in the time you'll spend trying to force the plug out you could easily swap it.

[HustleRussell]

May as well get some stilsons on it and to hell with the consequences- replacing the sump is no big deal. It'll probably be cheaper to replace the sump than to buy an oil sucky sucky bottle to get the oil out.
I bet stilsons would shift it, with or without part of the sump pan coming off with it...

[Condi]

A big old pair of stilstons will shift anything. If not, put a bar over the end and grind out the teeth a bit, then it will.

Seriously, we used methods like that on all sorts of plant machinery (no sump plugs, but they came out that often it wasnt needed) and it is by far the best method of getting a lot of torque into a nut. If it is fked then so be it, a new sump plug is only £4 from Halfords.

[Graham]

When you do get the plug out consider replacing it with an oil drain valve like one of these
http://www.stahlbusuk.com/oil-drain-valve.php

Ive started using them to protect the sump threads as you leave the valve in.

Makes it dead easy to change the oil, got one on my chimaera, the tasmin and tuscan racers

G

[Manicminer]

New sump is £100 from Euro car parts, I'd be looking to get your Dad to weld a nut on and use that.

The heat and the extra leverage will do the trick.

[Stuw84]

Hi thanks for advice so far. I tried again with the bolt grips and it just chewed it even more. I haven't got any stillsons so I spoke to my Dad and he's going to weld a nut on in the next week or so and seems sure he'll get it off so I'll report back with the outcome.

[mr.man]

I'll have a 50p bet with someone that you're turning it the wrong way!!!

[Stuw84]

mr.man said:

I'll have a 50p bet with someone that you're turning it the wrong way!!!

I have had double check that myself many times as thought I was doing something wrong when it wouldn't undo!

[Condi]

Quite rare for a sump plug to go solid though, they are usually fairly easy. Something doesnt sound quite right!