CV Joints ( Rear Driver Shafts)
Discussion
Well 750 miles this weekend in UK and Europe, went to Spa Classic with my son and what a great weekend.
Car ran great through all weathers , rain and 4 degrees and sun and 20 degrees all in one weekend !!
I have noticed I now have a fair bit of slack in the rear drive train, very similar on my previous Chimaera, where I replaced all four CV's and got great improvement.
Does anyone know the origin of the CV's . They are £100 each !! on the TVR specialist sites , whereas I know they are normally about half that if you know the origin.
Any help please?
David
Car ran great through all weathers , rain and 4 degrees and sun and 20 degrees all in one weekend !!
I have noticed I now have a fair bit of slack in the rear drive train, very similar on my previous Chimaera, where I replaced all four CV's and got great improvement.
Does anyone know the origin of the CV's . They are £100 each !! on the TVR specialist sites , whereas I know they are normally about half that if you know the origin.
Any help please?
David
Brummmie said:
Dave mac props Coventry, circa £35.
Do you run one of there diffshttp://www.davemacprops.com/gripper.html
Walford said:
They do not do them for us yet!Brummmie said:
Walford said:
They do not do them for us yet!.
Brummmie said:
I still have my original CV's in, never swapped them, but i know roughly how much they are as i asked when i collected their unbreakable drive shafts.
BTW the D Mac shafts are snug, you have to copper hammer them into the CV.
If i grab my prop underneath and move it there is a bit of slack, but you are going to get some.
To each wheel you go through the prop, then the whole diff assembly, and then two CV joints, so add up all the very slight clearances you have.
I have the gearbox out at the mo, as 3rd is goosed, and the prop bolts were loose! So new lock nuts and bolts and locktite this time..
Have you looked at your diff mounts too?
Mine are all polly, and all mounting plates upgraded with thicker ones.
My original ones when i built it were twisted before i started, and the rear fell to pieces shortly after, i remade that with 5mm steel, not the Quality Street tin grade TVR used.
BTW the D Mac shafts are snug, you have to copper hammer them into the CV.
If i grab my prop underneath and move it there is a bit of slack, but you are going to get some.
To each wheel you go through the prop, then the whole diff assembly, and then two CV joints, so add up all the very slight clearances you have.
I have the gearbox out at the mo, as 3rd is goosed, and the prop bolts were loose! So new lock nuts and bolts and locktite this time..
Have you looked at your diff mounts too?
Mine are all polly, and all mounting plates upgraded with thicker ones.
My original ones when i built it were twisted before i started, and the rear fell to pieces shortly after, i remade that with 5mm steel, not the Quality Street tin grade TVR used.
Just to update , I have left all cv's as they are. I did take an easy option of new diff oil , correct spec and level and that and an adaptives re set has made the car smooth as ever. Drove 120 miles yesterday in the sun , pulls smoothly in 5th gear at 1200 rpm. So leaving the cv's for now all seems well.
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