Discussion
Question from an engine numpty!
I know this has been covered in other threads, but wanted some individual advice in numpty speak!
Having had a trouble free first month with my Chim, I have just (this week) started experiencing problems with overheating.
Struggling for a mere 15 minutes in sluggish traffic to/from work will send my temperature up to the 100 mark, and has caused a few spurts of steam to come from under my bonnet. Temperature seems to stabilise at about 105.
Have consulted the bible, but am puzzled about where to start looking for the problem.
I am guessing that it could be the coolent levels or otter switch? If that likely and is there anything I could be missing?
Would appreciate any tips/advice because I'm still not familiar with the Rover V8 engine/Chim workings.
Also, I'm due a long journey next week (Leicester-Swindon-Lincoln). Would this be silly to attempt in the car and possibly cause damage? I'd rather pay for a hire car, than risk a big repair bill.
I know this has been covered in other threads, but wanted some individual advice in numpty speak!
Having had a trouble free first month with my Chim, I have just (this week) started experiencing problems with overheating.
Struggling for a mere 15 minutes in sluggish traffic to/from work will send my temperature up to the 100 mark, and has caused a few spurts of steam to come from under my bonnet. Temperature seems to stabilise at about 105.
Have consulted the bible, but am puzzled about where to start looking for the problem.
I am guessing that it could be the coolent levels or otter switch? If that likely and is there anything I could be missing?
Would appreciate any tips/advice because I'm still not familiar with the Rover V8 engine/Chim workings.
Also, I'm due a long journey next week (Leicester-Swindon-Lincoln). Would this be silly to attempt in the car and possibly cause damage? I'd rather pay for a hire car, than risk a big repair bill.
from one new chim owner to another. I had a similar problem and took the car back to the garage I got it from. They found the problem easily some airlocks in the coolant system (water) theybdrained and repressurised the sytem and now runs at steady 80 degrees.
Dont know if that helps at all
Dont know if that helps at all
Living here in a warm climate makes overheating a very real problem. Sluggish traffic increases temperature in mine very quickly.
The dealer I bought it off installed a new radiator and thermo fans prior to sale, and made some sort of adjustment to ensure the fans kick in at a lower temperature. Regardless of the outside temperature, it now never exceeds 90 degrees.
Might be an option if you do a lot of driving in conjested traffic?
J
The dealer I bought it off installed a new radiator and thermo fans prior to sale, and made some sort of adjustment to ensure the fans kick in at a lower temperature. Regardless of the outside temperature, it now never exceeds 90 degrees.
Might be an option if you do a lot of driving in conjested traffic?
J
as pete says, check the fans are coming on at all. can you hear them switch on? if not, then sounds as though otter switch is playing up. I carry a small piece of wire to stuff between the connectors to keep the fan running continuosly if the switch fails as a "get you home" measure.
If the fans are coming on, it may be a coolant airlock as suggested.....
first thing really is to see if the fans are coming on I think
If the fans are coming on, it may be a coolant airlock as suggested.....
first thing really is to see if the fans are coming on I think
Are you loosing any coolant? Do you regularly have to top up the cooling system even just a little? I suspect that the answer is yes and that you have a small coolant leak which is the root cause of all your problems.
A properly operating cooling system should have no leaks at all and not require regular topping up.
Coolant leaking even under normal operating pressure & temp will allow air back into the system. The air is then heated and expands causing further problems. Once airlocks are introduced the symptoms you describe will follow.
You need to start by ideally having someone (any garage) conduct a pressure test of the cooling system. This will hopefully identify any faults which can then be rectified.
Assuming that no leaks are found or any faults that are found are rectified (mine was a faulty jubilee clip not clamping the bottom hose properly) you need to refill the cooling system correctly - use advice in bible or search previous threads on PH for recommendations on how to do this.
A natural response to coolant leak problems is to put plenty in just in case! Do not be tempted to overfill the expansion tank (the one with the pressure cap on top) as this will simply result in the cap venting the excess which will appear as steam/water vapour coming from the o/s of the bonnet.
Once all the air has been removed from the system by filling with coolant and venting any air from the radiator and swirl tank as recommended in the bible, the expansion tank should be finally filled to a maximum of half full only. This is to give room for expansion without the pressure cap being forced into venting any excess liquid.
Lastly as you are resident in the E.Midlands, do you attend the TVRCC meetings? The next meeting is this Sunday (10/10/04) at The Old Ship at Lowdham, Notts arriving about midday. A good place to come and have a chat about these and any other problems.
A properly operating cooling system should have no leaks at all and not require regular topping up.
Coolant leaking even under normal operating pressure & temp will allow air back into the system. The air is then heated and expands causing further problems. Once airlocks are introduced the symptoms you describe will follow.
You need to start by ideally having someone (any garage) conduct a pressure test of the cooling system. This will hopefully identify any faults which can then be rectified.
Assuming that no leaks are found or any faults that are found are rectified (mine was a faulty jubilee clip not clamping the bottom hose properly) you need to refill the cooling system correctly - use advice in bible or search previous threads on PH for recommendations on how to do this.
A natural response to coolant leak problems is to put plenty in just in case! Do not be tempted to overfill the expansion tank (the one with the pressure cap on top) as this will simply result in the cap venting the excess which will appear as steam/water vapour coming from the o/s of the bonnet.
Once all the air has been removed from the system by filling with coolant and venting any air from the radiator and swirl tank as recommended in the bible, the expansion tank should be finally filled to a maximum of half full only. This is to give room for expansion without the pressure cap being forced into venting any excess liquid.
Lastly as you are resident in the E.Midlands, do you attend the TVRCC meetings? The next meeting is this Sunday (10/10/04) at The Old Ship at Lowdham, Notts arriving about midday. A good place to come and have a chat about these and any other problems.
Had the same problem with mine just after I bought her. I had a small radiator leak which over a period of time slowly drained the coolant and I ended up running at that temperature in the end. Check the expansion tank when the engine is cold (blue plastic top, to the drivers side of the radiator) to see if there's a coolant loss - it should be half full or so, depending on the car.
Not sure if this is the recommended way but, if the coolant is low and you're sure the thermostat is working, you can check the radiator for air pockets and bleed it by parking the car on a well cambered road, ie so that any air bubbles in the radiator float to the correct part of the radiator (where the bleed screw is). Top up the expansion tank to about half way, start her up and wait for the coolant to flow and expand. Very, very carefully loosen the bleed screw a bit at a time and the air, if any, will start to escape (along with a bit of very hot water - use a spanner with a long handle). Keep an eye on how much air comes out as it may exceed the volume of your expansion tank which will introduce more air into the system.
This is how I did mine and it was okay for a while, until I found the hole in the rad
Another indicator of low coolant will be a lack of warm air once you turn the heater on.
I wouldn't drive mine at all running that hot, let alone long distance, just begging for a big/terminal repair bill...
Not sure if this is the recommended way but, if the coolant is low and you're sure the thermostat is working, you can check the radiator for air pockets and bleed it by parking the car on a well cambered road, ie so that any air bubbles in the radiator float to the correct part of the radiator (where the bleed screw is). Top up the expansion tank to about half way, start her up and wait for the coolant to flow and expand. Very, very carefully loosen the bleed screw a bit at a time and the air, if any, will start to escape (along with a bit of very hot water - use a spanner with a long handle). Keep an eye on how much air comes out as it may exceed the volume of your expansion tank which will introduce more air into the system.
This is how I did mine and it was okay for a while, until I found the hole in the rad
Another indicator of low coolant will be a lack of warm air once you turn the heater on.
I wouldn't drive mine at all running that hot, let alone long distance, just begging for a big/terminal repair bill...
Think I've got to the root of the problem - suspicious wet patch at the base of the left side of the radiator. My car is just cooling outside and I will check the header tank later this evening (have a bottle of coolant waiting!). I suspect that I will find out that I'm low on coolant and that a good top-up will keep me running until I take my Chim into TM for it's 6000 mile service in 3 weeks. Will get the radiator sorted at that time.
The fans seem fine, although this experience has prompted me to contact Mod-Wise and order a two-speed fan control.
Now, I've been stupid and left my Bible in the office. Any hints and tips on adding coolant/removing air blocks would be gratefully recieved. (Can non-TVR garages manage this sort of maintenance?)
Andy
The fans seem fine, although this experience has prompted me to contact Mod-Wise and order a two-speed fan control.
Now, I've been stupid and left my Bible in the office. Any hints and tips on adding coolant/removing air blocks would be gratefully recieved. (Can non-TVR garages manage this sort of maintenance?)
Andy
Further to my last post......
There was a distinct lack of coolant (to the tune of 6 litres added). Hopefully, topped it off without adding any air bubbles to the system.
Had a quick run of the engine to check, and it seemed to level off at 90 (run to work in the morning will confirm this).
However, whilst ticking the engine over I noticed that the fans were switching on and off whilst at 90.
It actually felt like they were kicking in whilst I had the accelerator down, but cutting out when I laid off the gas!?!! 
Was this a coincidence, a Chim peculiarity caused by the location of the otter, or have a got an electrical problem????
There was a distinct lack of coolant (to the tune of 6 litres added). Hopefully, topped it off without adding any air bubbles to the system.
Had a quick run of the engine to check, and it seemed to level off at 90 (run to work in the morning will confirm this).
However, whilst ticking the engine over I noticed that the fans were switching on and off whilst at 90.
It actually felt like they were kicking in whilst I had the accelerator down, but cutting out when I laid off the gas!?!! Was this a coincidence, a Chim peculiarity caused by the location of the otter, or have a got an electrical problem????
That was not good... 
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