XJR-6 for 20 mile commute?
Discussion
At the moment We're down to 1 working car (an LPG'd e36 328i)
The good lady works shifts, so I've had to be running her about (11pm finishes, 6am starts etc)
I'm working to get my old e30 back on the road, and will probably steal the LPG off the 3268 for that, so the boss will need a new car.
She's always liked the X300, so I'm toying with the idea of getting an XJR (probably a 6 cyl model) as may as well get the one you want..
so,
do you folks reckon that an XJR would be suitable for the following per week:
20 mile round trip commute (80% Motorway)x5
60 miles running about a week.
car would need to be very reliable- dont want her having issues with getting it to start at 11pm etc.
If I was to be looking for one, what are the major issues? and what are the costs associated with runnign one- e.g. tyres/brakes/servicing etc?
thanks
The good lady works shifts, so I've had to be running her about (11pm finishes, 6am starts etc)
I'm working to get my old e30 back on the road, and will probably steal the LPG off the 3268 for that, so the boss will need a new car.
She's always liked the X300, so I'm toying with the idea of getting an XJR (probably a 6 cyl model) as may as well get the one you want..
so,
do you folks reckon that an XJR would be suitable for the following per week:
20 mile round trip commute (80% Motorway)x5
60 miles running about a week.
car would need to be very reliable- dont want her having issues with getting it to start at 11pm etc.
If I was to be looking for one, what are the major issues? and what are the costs associated with runnign one- e.g. tyres/brakes/servicing etc?
thanks
NormanD said:
I've been running a '99 XJ8R as an everyday car for the last year without any problems
Personally I feel they need using everyday, just taking out on the few fine days is the worst thing you can do
Thanks for that,Personally I feel they need using everyday, just taking out on the few fine days is the worst thing you can do
Can I ask how you're finding it for consumables?
It'll probably see less than 10kpa, but imagine its fairly heavy on tyres and brakes?
320touring said:
Thanks for that,
Can I ask how you're finding it for consumables?
It'll probably see less than 10kpa, but imagine its fairly heavy on tyres and brakes?
I've done 8k paCan I ask how you're finding it for consumables?
It'll probably see less than 10kpa, but imagine its fairly heavy on tyres and brakes?
Car had a full service in that time, needed to change the front pads and the pair of rear subframe mounts
They weren't to bad but I like to keep the car 100%
Tyres I changed the full set soon after I purchased the car as the previouse owner had put on some unknown make that just had no grip. Since the change the goes just where I point it. The tyres are about half warn now with spireted use
I do have the advantage of a Good Independant Jaguar specialist near me
I did a similar thing to you and bought one (X300 3.2 though)as a second car that would be used for about 50-80 miles weekly. I broke quite a few of the rules when buying these cars, but the 6 cylinder engines are bulletproof and it turned out to be utterly reliable and better to live with than the 2000 5 series it replaced. The only thing i did to it in my ownership was the top mount bushes at the front (less than £20 and 1 hrs work). I let it go for slightly more than i paid for it and still regret it now. All i can say is be prepared to hunt out a good example if you want the XJR, they are becoming rare now and prices are up there with the X308 version. I have owned various old/new, high performance and standard cars, but that old Jag was by far the best car i had owned and i will be looking to buy another one shortly. I'm not sure what it will be, but if i come across a well sorted X300 or X308 XJR, i would probably go for it. Find a good one and you won't need to worry about reliability issues.
Apart from some diff whine on high mileage cars the engines and drivetrain on the X300 are virtually indistructable. 3.2 X300 can struggle a bit when heavily laden or driving in hilly areas and the 4.0 has a better gearbox.
Expect 28MPG at best, 22/4 round town and mid teens if you thrash it - less from the supercharged cars.
Suspension components and brakes get tired with hard use or high miles, but they are reasonably cheap to overhaul - especially if you DIY. Budget for a full fluid change and once you're sure the suspension is sound a 4 wheel geometry realignment will transform the car. Thermostats seem to fail frequently - stick a new one in when you change the coolant.
Look and feel for uneven wear pattens or excessive feathering on tyres, listen for any clonks or knocks from the suspension and make sure the car comes to a straight judder free stop under both heavy and light braking.
Some electricial problems such as immobiliser or locking faults. The clock display often fails.
Check all over for rust. Rear wheelarches, round the screens especially underneath the rubber in the corners, bottom of front wings, jacking points, inner and outer sills and closing panels and under the bonnet along the wing tops and as much as you can see of the bulkhead. Bumper brackets can corrode allowing the bumper to drop.
Don't be frightened of a 100k + miles car providing it's got history and has been well cared for. I'd halve the service intervals on a short trip car and saturate it in Waxoil to preserve it.
Expect 28MPG at best, 22/4 round town and mid teens if you thrash it - less from the supercharged cars.
Suspension components and brakes get tired with hard use or high miles, but they are reasonably cheap to overhaul - especially if you DIY. Budget for a full fluid change and once you're sure the suspension is sound a 4 wheel geometry realignment will transform the car. Thermostats seem to fail frequently - stick a new one in when you change the coolant.
Look and feel for uneven wear pattens or excessive feathering on tyres, listen for any clonks or knocks from the suspension and make sure the car comes to a straight judder free stop under both heavy and light braking.
Some electricial problems such as immobiliser or locking faults. The clock display often fails.
Check all over for rust. Rear wheelarches, round the screens especially underneath the rubber in the corners, bottom of front wings, jacking points, inner and outer sills and closing panels and under the bonnet along the wing tops and as much as you can see of the bulkhead. Bumper brackets can corrode allowing the bumper to drop.
Don't be frightened of a 100k + miles car providing it's got history and has been well cared for. I'd halve the service intervals on a short trip car and saturate it in Waxoil to preserve it.
Apart from some diff whine on high mileage cars the engines and drivetrain on the X300 are virtually indistructable. 3.2 X300 can struggle a bit when heavily laden or driving in hilly areas and the 4.0 has a better gearbox.
I'd be after a 4.0 or an XJR- might as well get the biggest and best I can afford- thanks for the tip re the gearbox
Expect 28MPG at best, 22/4 round town and mid teens if you thrash it - less from the supercharged cars
That should be absorbable for the 8k miles it'd be doing. it'll be mainly doing Motorway miles for the commute- certainly better than the xj40 I had as a lad..
[i]Suspension components and brakes get tired with hard use or high miles, but they are reasonably cheap to overhaul - especially if you DIY. Budget for a full fluid change and once you're sure the suspension is sound a 4 wheel geometry realignment will transform the car. Thermostats seem to fail frequently - stick a new one in when you change the coolant.
Look and feel for uneven wear pattens or excessive feathering on tyres, listen for any clonks or knocks from the suspension and make sure the car comes to a straight judder free stop under both heavy and light braking [/i]
What sort of costs are involved in the brakes and suspension componenets? I'm happy to DIY. I take it they still have large coolant systems?seem to remember of the order of 8L for my xj40..
[i]Some electricial problems such as immobiliser or locking faults. The clock display often fails.
Check all over for rust. Rear wheelarches, round the screens especially underneath the rubber in the corners, bottom of front wings, jacking points, inner and outer sills and closing panels and under the bonnet along the wing tops and as much as you can see of the bulkhead. Bumper brackets can corrode allowing the bumper to drop[/i]
Ideal- a great checklist to look at- Will write it out and take it with me
Don't be frightened of a 100k + miles car providing it's got history and has been well cared for. I'd halve the service intervals on a short trip car and saturate it in Waxoil to preserve it
With the budget available, it'll be over 100k probably- but preferably one with plenty of reciepts and a decent service history. Would you consider the 10 mile each way commute a "short trip"?
thanks for the informative post!
I'd be after a 4.0 or an XJR- might as well get the biggest and best I can afford- thanks for the tip re the gearbox
Expect 28MPG at best, 22/4 round town and mid teens if you thrash it - less from the supercharged cars
That should be absorbable for the 8k miles it'd be doing. it'll be mainly doing Motorway miles for the commute- certainly better than the xj40 I had as a lad..
[i]Suspension components and brakes get tired with hard use or high miles, but they are reasonably cheap to overhaul - especially if you DIY. Budget for a full fluid change and once you're sure the suspension is sound a 4 wheel geometry realignment will transform the car. Thermostats seem to fail frequently - stick a new one in when you change the coolant.
Look and feel for uneven wear pattens or excessive feathering on tyres, listen for any clonks or knocks from the suspension and make sure the car comes to a straight judder free stop under both heavy and light braking [/i]
What sort of costs are involved in the brakes and suspension componenets? I'm happy to DIY. I take it they still have large coolant systems?seem to remember of the order of 8L for my xj40..
[i]Some electricial problems such as immobiliser or locking faults. The clock display often fails.
Check all over for rust. Rear wheelarches, round the screens especially underneath the rubber in the corners, bottom of front wings, jacking points, inner and outer sills and closing panels and under the bonnet along the wing tops and as much as you can see of the bulkhead. Bumper brackets can corrode allowing the bumper to drop[/i]
Ideal- a great checklist to look at- Will write it out and take it with me
Don't be frightened of a 100k + miles car providing it's got history and has been well cared for. I'd halve the service intervals on a short trip car and saturate it in Waxoil to preserve it
With the budget available, it'll be over 100k probably- but preferably one with plenty of reciepts and a decent service history. Would you consider the 10 mile each way commute a "short trip"?
thanks for the informative post!
Edited by 320touring on Wednesday 29th May 10:07
320touring said:
Apart from some diff whine on high mileage cars the engines and drivetrain on the X300 are virtually indistructable. 3.2 X300 can struggle a bit when heavily laden or driving in hilly areas and the 4.0 has a better gearbox.
I'd be after a 4.0 or an XJR- might as well get the biggest and best I can afford- thanks for the tip re the gearbox
Expect 28MPG at best, 22/4 round town and mid teens if you thrash it - less from the supercharged cars
That should be absorbable for the 8k miles it'd be doing. it'll be mainly doing Motorway miles for the commute- certainly better than the xj40 I had as a lad..
[i]Suspension components and brakes get tired with hard use or high miles, but they are reasonably cheap to overhaul - especially if you DIY. Budget for a full fluid change and once you're sure the suspension is sound a 4 wheel geometry realignment will transform the car. Thermostats seem to fail frequently - stick a new one in when you change the coolant.
Look and feel for uneven wear pattens or excessive feathering on tyres, listen for any clonks or knocks from the suspension and make sure the car comes to a straight judder free stop under both heavy and light braking [/i]
What sort of costs are involved in the brakes and suspension componenets? I'm happy to DIY. I take it they still have large coolant systems?seem to remember of the order of 8L for my xj40..
[i]Some electricial problems such as immobiliser or locking faults. The clock display often fails.
Check all over for rust. Rear wheelarches, round the screens especially underneath the rubber in the corners, bottom of front wings, jacking points, inner and outer sills and closing panels and under the bonnet along the wing tops and as much as you can see of the bulkhead. Bumper brackets can corrode allowing the bumper to drop[/i]
Ideal- a great checklist to look at- Will write it out and take it with me
Don't be frightened of a 100k + miles car providing it's got history and has been well cared for. I'd halve the service intervals on a short trip car and saturate it in Waxoil to preserve it
With the budget available, it'll be over 100k probably- but preferably one with plenty of reciepts and a decent service history. Would you consider the 10 mile each way commute a "short trip"?
thanks for the informative post!
3.2 and 4.0 both have ZF 4 speed boxes. The 4.0 is electronicaly managed and has swichable sports mode, the 3.2 is a convetional hydraulic. There is a rare 5 speed mamual version too.I'd be after a 4.0 or an XJR- might as well get the biggest and best I can afford- thanks for the tip re the gearbox
Expect 28MPG at best, 22/4 round town and mid teens if you thrash it - less from the supercharged cars
That should be absorbable for the 8k miles it'd be doing. it'll be mainly doing Motorway miles for the commute- certainly better than the xj40 I had as a lad..
[i]Suspension components and brakes get tired with hard use or high miles, but they are reasonably cheap to overhaul - especially if you DIY. Budget for a full fluid change and once you're sure the suspension is sound a 4 wheel geometry realignment will transform the car. Thermostats seem to fail frequently - stick a new one in when you change the coolant.
Look and feel for uneven wear pattens or excessive feathering on tyres, listen for any clonks or knocks from the suspension and make sure the car comes to a straight judder free stop under both heavy and light braking [/i]
What sort of costs are involved in the brakes and suspension componenets? I'm happy to DIY. I take it they still have large coolant systems?seem to remember of the order of 8L for my xj40..
[i]Some electricial problems such as immobiliser or locking faults. The clock display often fails.
Check all over for rust. Rear wheelarches, round the screens especially underneath the rubber in the corners, bottom of front wings, jacking points, inner and outer sills and closing panels and under the bonnet along the wing tops and as much as you can see of the bulkhead. Bumper brackets can corrode allowing the bumper to drop[/i]
Ideal- a great checklist to look at- Will write it out and take it with me
Don't be frightened of a 100k + miles car providing it's got history and has been well cared for. I'd halve the service intervals on a short trip car and saturate it in Waxoil to preserve it
With the budget available, it'll be over 100k probably- but preferably one with plenty of reciepts and a decent service history. Would you consider the 10 mile each way commute a "short trip"?
thanks for the informative post!
Edited by 320touring on Wednesday 29th May 10:07
Have a look on British Car Parts for suspension parts prices. Avoid very cheap brake discs - they tend to warp like bananas after hard use. If rebuilding suspension you'll need a specialist spring compressor, larger sockets and spanners than most people may have and probrably use of a press too.
Can't remember how much coolant is X300 system - long time since I sold mine - but guess 8-10 litres sounds about right.
10 mile commute is not far enough for oil to come up to working temperature. I'd change it a lot more often than Jaguar suggest.
Afternoon!
I've been using a 3.2 on LPG for my 60 mile/day commute over the last year ish. Intended as a good stablemate to the E30, but that's been off the road for years now!
Mine's so far standing up to their reputation of reliability (in terms of not letting me down) but there is always something that needs doing! Nothing's particularly expensive (brakes, bushes, sensors etc), just don't expect to get to the bottom of the to-do list, unless mine's just a bit of a lemon. Jolly nice place to be though, what what?
Dare I suggest that the 4.0 would be adequate as a commutemobile? I wanted a 4.0, but also wanted one that was already converted and the 3.2 does me fine tbh - not that I'd choose it again! An R will have been driven harder, and there are lots of bushes/joints etc to replace... but then maybe they'd need doing due to age by now anyway. Plus some things (coolant hoses etc) are a lot more difficult to get to with a supercharger in the way.
I've been using a 3.2 on LPG for my 60 mile/day commute over the last year ish. Intended as a good stablemate to the E30, but that's been off the road for years now!
Mine's so far standing up to their reputation of reliability (in terms of not letting me down) but there is always something that needs doing! Nothing's particularly expensive (brakes, bushes, sensors etc), just don't expect to get to the bottom of the to-do list, unless mine's just a bit of a lemon. Jolly nice place to be though, what what?
Dare I suggest that the 4.0 would be adequate as a commutemobile? I wanted a 4.0, but also wanted one that was already converted and the 3.2 does me fine tbh - not that I'd choose it again! An R will have been driven harder, and there are lots of bushes/joints etc to replace... but then maybe they'd need doing due to age by now anyway. Plus some things (coolant hoses etc) are a lot more difficult to get to with a supercharger in the way.
ziggy1024 said:
Afternoon!
I've been using a 3.2 on LPG for my 60 mile/day commute over the last year ish. Intended as a good stablemate to the E30, but that's been off the road for years now!
Mine's so far standing up to their reputation of reliability (in terms of not letting me down) but there is always something that needs doing! Nothing's particularly expensive (brakes, bushes, sensors etc), just don't expect to get to the bottom of the to-do list, unless mine's just a bit of a lemon. Jolly nice place to be though, what what?
Dare I suggest that the 4.0 would be adequate as a commutemobile? I wanted a 4.0, but also wanted one that was already converted and the 3.2 does me fine tbh - not that I'd choose it again! An R will have been driven harder, and there are lots of bushes/joints etc to replace... but then maybe they'd need doing due to age by now anyway. Plus some things (coolant hoses etc) are a lot more difficult to get to with a supercharger in the way.
Ahh, a fellow e30er.. and one who sold me an LPG kit, no lessI've been using a 3.2 on LPG for my 60 mile/day commute over the last year ish. Intended as a good stablemate to the E30, but that's been off the road for years now!
Mine's so far standing up to their reputation of reliability (in terms of not letting me down) but there is always something that needs doing! Nothing's particularly expensive (brakes, bushes, sensors etc), just don't expect to get to the bottom of the to-do list, unless mine's just a bit of a lemon. Jolly nice place to be though, what what?
Dare I suggest that the 4.0 would be adequate as a commutemobile? I wanted a 4.0, but also wanted one that was already converted and the 3.2 does me fine tbh - not that I'd choose it again! An R will have been driven harder, and there are lots of bushes/joints etc to replace... but then maybe they'd need doing due to age by now anyway. Plus some things (coolant hoses etc) are a lot more difficult to get to with a supercharger in the way.
Sounds like you and the 3.2 are getting along just fine.. I know that a 3.2 or a 4.0 would be more than adequate for the commute
however, in for a penny, in for a pound..
at only 8k miles per year, An R would be just about justifiable..
and I'm fed up buying "sensible" rather than the car I want..
been running an xj40 for 3 years everyday till just recently and its never let me down.
a 50mile round trip every day for a year of that too!
just bought another car so as to stop adding the miles to her. (an alfa that wouldn't start this week so my xj brought me to work)
it's a 4.0 and the x300 will have the later engine which i believe is even better.
2nd hand parts are many and cheap when you need them.
shop well and enjoy it.
a 50mile round trip every day for a year of that too!
just bought another car so as to stop adding the miles to her. (an alfa that wouldn't start this week so my xj brought me to work)
it's a 4.0 and the x300 will have the later engine which i believe is even better.
2nd hand parts are many and cheap when you need them.
shop well and enjoy it.
I bought a 3.2 last year. They are awesome. So far, it's only needed a couple of coils, a crank sensor and a fuel filter. It's actually had a full front suspension rebuild, a new wing, new bumper, I replaced the stupid steering reach adjustment driveshaft, manifolds, downpipe, radiator, yada yada yada, but I'm fussy like that.
Once you get it rolling, even a lowly 3.2 with the long-wheelbase body goes like two tons of leather and walnut has no right to. Off the line, the four speed auto shows its age somewhat. Either that or I have too much mechanical sympathy.
Once you get it rolling, even a lowly 3.2 with the long-wheelbase body goes like two tons of leather and walnut has no right to. Off the line, the four speed auto shows its age somewhat. Either that or I have too much mechanical sympathy.
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