Wedge Switch illumination
Discussion
Actually, I tried one of the standard small leds (2mm? 2.5?) and it seems to fit snugly in the original hole at the switch end. I reckon a tiny tab of some glue that stays sticky is then all you need (and the wiring !)
The original worries me with a bulb hidden in all that wiring, and mine blew several times, not sure why, dodgy connection ? I haven't got any illumination on my switches at the moment.
The original worries me with a bulb hidden in all that wiring, and mine blew several times, not sure why, dodgy connection ? I haven't got any illumination on my switches at the moment.
I did away with my old switches and replaced them with new type rocker switches that have their own illuminaton..(Not everyones cup o tea)..The fibre optic unit was a good idea initially but getting to it when you need to change the bulb is a right pain,replacing with an LED is a good idea as LED's have a considerable longer life than ordinary bulbs..Unless you short them out!...Ziga
mrzigazaga said:
I did away with my old switches and replaced them with new type rocker switches that have their own illuminaton..(Not everyones cup o tea)..The fibre optic unit was a good idea initially but getting to it when you need to change the bulb is a right pain,replacing with an LED is a good idea as LED's have a considerable longer life than ordinary bulbs..Unless you short them out!...Ziga
Wjich type did you use as I was looking to replace mine but could not find any to take all the connections mainly for the lights and windows.I did it a while back to the Silver FHC, something I forgot to add to the list!!
I used 3v LEDS in series, so 4 of them added up to 12v, but the ones below are straight 12v ones, so dont need to be messed around with.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-25-PCS-3mm-Cool-Whit...
They should also fit straight into the holes that the current fibres go into, perhaps a dab of superglue to retain them too.
Stu
I used 3v LEDS in series, so 4 of them added up to 12v, but the ones below are straight 12v ones, so dont need to be messed around with.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-25-PCS-3mm-Cool-Whit...
They should also fit straight into the holes that the current fibres go into, perhaps a dab of superglue to retain them too.
Stu
GV said:
Wjich type did you use as I was looking to replace mine but could not find any to take all the connections mainly for the lights and windows.
Hi Mate..I went for a later type rocker switch but they did need wiring in as i couldnt find any that were just plug n play so to speak, The holes also needed to be a different size so i had a plate cut to suit..I got them from CBS...ZigaFYI
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Adam
Sorry the diagram is a tad pathetic,if need be ill do one that is not such a mud map!!
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Adam
Sorry the diagram is a tad pathetic,if need be ill do one that is not such a mud map!!
Edited by Oz2 on Thursday 30th May 08:04
hallsie said:
I did it a while back...
I used 3v LEDS in series, so 4 of them added up to 12v, but the ones below are straight 12v ones, so dont need to be messed around with.
Stu
Doing series LEDs might have the advantage that the instrument dimmer switch might still work. If there is not much load any more through the switch (LEDSs take much less current than the bulb) then you might have to change the resistors (discussed recently) for higher values to get the required dimming. However you won't need big power resistors so you could mount them in the cabin near the dimmer switch as opposed to in the engine bay.I used 3v LEDS in series, so 4 of them added up to 12v, but the ones below are straight 12v ones, so dont need to be messed around with.
Stu
hallsie said:
I did it a while back to the Silver FHC, something I forgot to add to the list!!
I used 3v LEDS in series, so 4 of them added up to 12v, but the ones below are straight 12v ones, so dont need to be messed around with.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-25-PCS-3mm-Cool-Whit...
They should also fit straight into the holes that the current fibres go into, perhaps a dab of superglue to retain them too.
Stu
Picked up some of these off Ebay and have been playing around with the dash this afternoon. The LED's donot fit exactly as there is a small rim on the base of the LED, so it will not go into the plastic holder that sits behind the switch. had to persuade the hole a little using a bradol and the LED's fit perfectly. The dimmer doesnt work, so may have to play around with the resistances, but so far so good. Fantastic amount of light from each LED, kinda puts the incandescent bulbs in the clocks to shame.I used 3v LEDS in series, so 4 of them added up to 12v, but the ones below are straight 12v ones, so dont need to be messed around with.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-25-PCS-3mm-Cool-Whit...
They should also fit straight into the holes that the current fibres go into, perhaps a dab of superglue to retain them too.
Stu
Wedg1e said:
You should be able to file the rim off the LEDs, they're only plastic.
You do realise that the additional wiring to all of those LEDs is going to be a horrific bird's nest, don't you
Knocked up a loom on Saturday night. 5x LEDs some heat shrink and were done !!You do realise that the additional wiring to all of those LEDs is going to be a horrific bird's nest, don't you

Will dig out the needle files later today, but will probably leave installation until I get the heater controls sorted.
Only issue I can see is the plastic holder for the original fibre optics and now LED's is polythene, so Superglue will not stick to it. Looks like its going to need a little but more thought
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