Dismantled pod motor pictures

[wooly350i]

Ive dismantled motor showing inside of components, maybe wedg1e van help with what part is likely to have shorted to cause fuse to blow .

[wooly350i]

[wooly350i]

Showing the crap that has formed inside the unit.

Edited by wooly350i on Thursday 30th May 21:39

[wooly350i]

Fingers are pointing to the two sprung knobs that the raised bit of gear wheel pushes on to raise contact plate the other side.

Edited by wooly350i on Thursday 30th May 21:40

[wooly350i]

Contact strip showing raised on left whilst pushing knob up the other side.

Edited by wooly350i on Thursday 30th May 21:41

[wooly350i]

Possibly the cleaned bit of blue wire was shorting through thinned out insulation where it had been rubbing against screw mounting.

Edited by wooly350i on Thursday 30th May 21:43

[B@man]

wooly350i said:

Contact strip showing raised on left whilst pushing knob up the other side.

Edited by wooly350i on Thursday 30th May 21:41

Arghhhh....... I hate this bit, If you have a pair of good switch strip things I've got a pair of working motors....

[wooly350i]

B@man said:

Arghhhh....... I hate this bit, If you have a pair of good switch strip things I've got a pair of working motors....

Ånd together we could rule the world !

[Wedg1e]

Did the nylon gear push out easily or was it stiff? Was the armature free to spin in its bearings?
There's not much meat left on the brushes, what state is the commutator in? Could be it just needs a good polish and the gaps between the segments cleaning out.
If the insulation on the blue wire is intact it probably hasn't been shorting through it, 12v won't get through even very thin plastic. If it had been, I'd expect to see burning of the insulation.
Use a multimeter (set to resistance) between each of the copper segments on the commutator and the steel shaft: if it measures anything less than infinity (or OL depending on meter), the armature winding insulation is shot.

[wild rover]

You will probably find that one of the bearings on the motor was a bit stiff if it had not been used for a while. Bets are on that it should be ok after the rebuild. I take it

[B@man]

wooly350i said:

Ånd together we could rule the world !

Not quite what I had in mind

[tr7v8]

Looks a bit TR7? If it is I may have one sculling around in the garage

[Danny Hoffman]

It is TR7 and I agree with Ian the brushes look too short (one in particular).

[marcus1875]

is it just the picture or does the brush on the blue wire lack a spring?

[wooly350i]

marcus1875 said:

is it just the picture or does the brush on the blue wire lack a spring?

Both springs are present.
I put power to the motor tonight via the 3 pin plug and it turns ok, any one know how the two separate wires on bullet connectors affect operation.
I did put a multi meter between the copper windings on the motor and the steel bits and they've not shorted and the arm mechanism on the pod seems free enough coz the replacement motor is working fine, cheers for now, John.

[Wedg1e]

wooly350i said:

Both springs are present.
I put power to the motor tonight via the 3 pin plug and it turns ok, any one know how the two separate wires on bullet connectors affect operation.
I did put a multi meter between the copper windings on the motor and the steel bits and they've not shorted and the arm mechanism on the pod seems free enough coz the replacement motor is working fine, cheers for now, John.

Sounds like an early motor: as I recall they used a 3-pin and two bullet connectors: later ones had 5-pin connector in the same style as the 3-pin. I've no idea why they did it the early way, probably a carry-over from the TR7 but why, I dunno.

What you need is all the commutator segments to be clean and shiny (you can polish with wet'n'dry but get all the dust out afterwards as it'll get into the bearings and/or chew up the brushes), all the slots between them to be free of carbon dust, a good length on the brushes with plenty of spring force behind them to press them against the commutator. As the brushes wear, the commutator gets blackened which increases its resistance, reducing the motor's ability to take current thus slowing it down. Meanwhile the carbon dust gets between the segments causing leakage from one armature winding to the next, fighting the electromagnetic field and again, reducing motor power.

Simples (as said by the youth of today)

[tr7v8]

[quote=Wedg1e
Sounds like an early motor: as I recall they used a 3-pin and two bullet connectors: later ones had 5-pin connector in the same style as the 3-pin. I've no idea why they did it the early way, probably a carry-over from the TR7 but why, I dunno.


[/quote]
Yes there are early & late TR7 identified as you say by the connector. For the TR7 the early connector is NLA so most convert to the later style. Did Lucas change & force BL to change the 7, no idea!

[wooly350i]

Cheers Ian, i did put å brush over it when i took it apart initially coz of all the hardened black deposits, perhaps i will bring it along to bbwf, no point throwing it away just yet If it will do å turn again . Im sorted with the replacement motor now which is more in time with the other one,john.