Discussion
So my chim went for an mot today. Passed without a problem. She has been dropped off on my drive. Now for the problem.
Came home to pop her back into her bed and now she won't start.
AA have been out and the battery is knackered and the solenoid on the starter won't fire the starter although it's getting power.
Wanted to get it off the drive but it need towing and it's on forwards. Any suggestions please
Forgot how much fun they are
Came home to pop her back into her bed and now she won't start.
AA have been out and the battery is knackered and the solenoid on the starter won't fire the starter although it's getting power.
Wanted to get it off the drive but it need towing and it's on forwards. Any suggestions please
Forgot how much fun they are
CHEF_GOLF said:
So my chim went for an mot today. Passed without a problem. She has been dropped off on my drive. Now for the problem.
Came home to pop her back into her bed and now she won't start.
AA have been out and the battery is knackered and the solenoid on the starter won't fire the starter although it's getting power.
Wanted to get it off the drive but it need towing and it's on forwards. Any suggestions please
Forgot how much fun they are
Have gone through a similar thing recently, what does it do when your turn the ignition? Does it click or turnover? Is it dead or just it just grown, like it can't even turn?Came home to pop her back into her bed and now she won't start.
AA have been out and the battery is knackered and the solenoid on the starter won't fire the starter although it's getting power.
Wanted to get it off the drive but it need towing and it's on forwards. Any suggestions please
Forgot how much fun they are
The AA guys are okay, but inexperienced with TVR. I was recovered last week and told my starter was knackered, but it turned out to be a bad earth.
My recommendations (based on recent experience and a lot of advice from others).
1. Test the battery and the alternator.
2. Does the battery light remain on when running? If so, check the 100A fuse. If not, fuse is fine.
If the above are good:
4. Take a jump lead and attach it to the earth terminal of the battery and then clip the other end to the engine block. If the car starts, then you know you have an earthing issue.
5. If the above doesn't start, remove the negative jump lead and instead attach a lead to the positive terminal of the battery and then to the positive of the starter motor and turn it over (ensure the car is in neutral and remove the king lead from the coil to prevent any accidents). If it turns over, then you know the starter is good. This means the issue resides between the battery and the starter.
It could be the weedy live feed cable used by TVR or it may be an immobiliser issue. Chimp on Gas, Phazed etc are all pretty good at this stuff.
HTH
This sounds very similar to the problem I was having. Do you have an Anderson connector under the bonnet?
Do try the tests I mentioned or use the battery from your daily driver. This, together with the tests from the previous post will help rule out the starter motor/ solenoid and give you more of an idea where the problem lies. I don't think it is a 100AMP fuse issue, otherwise the battery light would remain on when the engine was running. The 100AMP fuse blowing would simply prevent the alternator from charging the battery, so if your battery is good, you can pretty much rule this out.
Do try the tests I mentioned or use the battery from your daily driver. This, together with the tests from the previous post will help rule out the starter motor/ solenoid and give you more of an idea where the problem lies. I don't think it is a 100AMP fuse issue, otherwise the battery light would remain on when the engine was running. The 100AMP fuse blowing would simply prevent the alternator from charging the battery, so if your battery is good, you can pretty much rule this out.
CHEF_GOLF said:
The fuel pump primed. The immobiliser is working fine.
Its easy to make the assumption just because you hear the fuel pump the immobiliser is working fine.The truth is the immobiliser controls two circuits, the fuel pump & the starter solenoid.
Each pass through the immobiliser as separate circuits, so it's eminently possible for one to be working correctly while the other has failed.
Just because you hear the buzz from your fuel pump when you press the remote fob most definitely does NOT mean your immobiliser is working correctly.
Cc
chris1972 said:
This sounds very similar to the problem I was having. Do you have an Anderson connector under the bonnet?
Do try the tests I mentioned or use the battery from your daily driver. This, together with the tests from the previous post will help rule out the starter motor/ solenoid and give you more of an idea where the problem lies. I don't think it is a 100AMP fuse issue, otherwise the battery light would remain on when the engine was running. The 100AMP fuse blowing would simply prevent the alternator from charging the battery, so if your battery is good, you can pretty much rule this out.
You may be correct Chris, but the twice I have had the 100 amp fuse go, the ignition light has not been on constantly, or even at all. Do try the tests I mentioned or use the battery from your daily driver. This, together with the tests from the previous post will help rule out the starter motor/ solenoid and give you more of an idea where the problem lies. I don't think it is a 100AMP fuse issue, otherwise the battery light would remain on when the engine was running. The 100AMP fuse blowing would simply prevent the alternator from charging the battery, so if your battery is good, you can pretty much rule this out.
ChimpOnGas said:
The truth is the immobiliser controls two circuits, the fuel pump & the starter solenoid.
Are we familiar with the 430 immobilizer arrangement then? [assuming OP is talking about the car in his profile]Immob can be anything from starter, ecu, fuel pump, coil... depending on age AFIK. 430 has immob incorporated with the CDL unit as standard, nothing like immob on Meta systems...
The 430 DOES NOT have a 100A fuse either....
OP charge battery & make sure the battery cable terminals are clean & making good contact at both ends ~ you should see close to 12v at the brown wires on the alternator.
The garage came down to tow her in their defender and now I have 2 rover engined cars broken down on the drive much to my wife's annoyance.
While they were here they had a look under an there is a wire broken on the starter motor, I have bought a new battery anyway just for good measure.
She is being treated to some custom made copper HT leads buy my auto electrician and a new up rated dizzy arm and cap oh and a Ho coil.
Will let you know the outcome
While they were here they had a look under an there is a wire broken on the starter motor, I have bought a new battery anyway just for good measure.
She is being treated to some custom made copper HT leads buy my auto electrician and a new up rated dizzy arm and cap oh and a Ho coil.
Will let you know the outcome
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