On car disc skimming - Essex or East London
Discussion
RobP said:
Why are you having your discs skimmed? If it's because of vibration on braking, I would first get run- out on the hubs checked. Any place that can skim will be able to check this.
+1 Rob (and Rob), I went round in circles did everything at the front and cause was actually rear hubs out of trueBlu3R said:
Any recommendations and idea of price please. I assume it makes sense to have a new set of pads with you....?
I had mine skimmed at a place in Essex, from memory not that far from track n road. I cant remember the price but i remember leaving the place not feeling raped if that helps!
They will fit new pads as part of the service.
Grant might know where they are as im sure he pointed me in their direction.
sorry i cant be a bit more specific lol.
Steve
Sorry guys, skimming is crap, buy new, safer.
Lots of reasons why, heat dissipation being one of them.
Chances are the discs are not warped.
http://www.examiner.com/article/there-s-no-such-th...
I do the same, never had an issue since, used to do this on the Noble, also used to brake very hard serveral times to keep the discs clean.
Lots of reasons why, heat dissipation being one of them.
Chances are the discs are not warped.
http://www.examiner.com/article/there-s-no-such-th...
I do the same, never had an issue since, used to do this on the Noble, also used to brake very hard serveral times to keep the discs clean.
Ash if that article is correct, and i do disagree with it, how do you explain disc run out, I have clocked discs and found up to 6 thou run out, you can feel it on the pedal, after grinding the disc was true and any knock back has disappeared.
Edited by Adrian W on Wednesday 5th June 14:07
i have seen warped disk that actually wobble as you spin them - one hard stop and they are buggered
however fair to say they were not performance disks
if the reason is really pad material sticking to the disc then you should be able to compare the inner edge of the disc against the pad area and check with a dti gauge for runout
(how does this explain fitting new discs and the problem still being there)
however fair to say they were not performance disks
if the reason is really pad material sticking to the disc then you should be able to compare the inner edge of the disc against the pad area and check with a dti gauge for runout
(how does this explain fitting new discs and the problem still being there)
Skimming a disk indeed works and is a non-permanent way to cheaply improve judder. The route cause of the issue could re-occur and a disk upgrade may be needed to cure it once and for all. A £50 skim is a better short-term option, before next service etc, to cure it in the meantime.
I never leave my foot on the brake after hard braking, and have suffered judder many times. Significantly more likely on track than on road.
If the place in Essex is any good then I'm sure I'll be out there at some point. Rears now looking to be the weak-spot after the Alcon floating upgrade to the fronts.
I never leave my foot on the brake after hard braking, and have suffered judder many times. Significantly more likely on track than on road.
If the place in Essex is any good then I'm sure I'll be out there at some point. Rears now looking to be the weak-spot after the Alcon floating upgrade to the fronts.
As I said - get the hub run-out checked front and rear before doing anything else. If they are out of tolerance (which is quite likely if they are the old Noble hubs) then the juddering will only return in a short while and you will have wasted your money. Only guaranteed way of permanently eliminating judder is to replace ALL items at the same time ie it's no good putting old discs and/or pads back on new hubs or indeed new discs/pads on crappy old wobbly hubs.
RobP said:
As I said - get the hub run-out checked front and rear before doing anything else. If they are out of tolerance (which is quite likely if they are the old Noble hubs) then the juddering will only return in a short while and you will have wasted your money. Only guaranteed way of permanently eliminating judder is to replace ALL items at the same time ie it's no good putting old discs and/or pads back on new hubs or indeed new discs/pads on crappy old wobbly hubs.
That doesn't quiet make sense, if the upright was machined out of line( which is effectively what you are saying) it would mean the hub would be eccentric, if this were the case no amount of disc trueing would fix it and the car would have had the problem from new.This was the case on my car and noble replaced all of the uprights under warranty.
Makes perfect sense to me. My off side front hub showed 14thou run-out (with attendent judder on braking). original Noble Hub was replaced with Ford unit along with discs and pads and problem has been resolved completely. Uprightgs were untouched. However, you're right that if the uprights are not machined true then you'll have the same problem. Guess you also need to check the rear wheels follow the front wheels as well...
Ever since I had mine skimmed on the car I don't suffer from juddering, because unless the untrueness shifts then the fact they are skimmed on the car means they are correct.
Absolutely critical to mark up the respective location of disk & hub if you dismantle otherwise you can put them back on wrong and get a horrible effect (been there, got the t-shirt).
J
Absolutely critical to mark up the respective location of disk & hub if you dismantle otherwise you can put them back on wrong and get a horrible effect (been there, got the t-shirt).
J
I was going to reply earlier but the thought the discussion was beneficial to all.
Anyway, my original question wasn't in an attempt to cure vibration, nor was it even for my Noble
you're just much more helpful on this forum than the others 
I have another car that I suspect has suffered at the hands of 2nd hand car dealers. There's corrosion built up on the inside face of the discs probably by sitting on a forecourt and being repeatedly jet washed without a run to dry things off. Subsequently the braking efficiency is poor and the discs look like your best '70s LP. I just want them flat again and a nice new set of pads all round, should transform it I hope.
Anyway, my original question wasn't in an attempt to cure vibration, nor was it even for my Noble
you're just much more helpful on this forum than the others 
I have another car that I suspect has suffered at the hands of 2nd hand car dealers. There's corrosion built up on the inside face of the discs probably by sitting on a forecourt and being repeatedly jet washed without a run to dry things off. Subsequently the braking efficiency is poor and the discs look like your best '70s LP. I just want them flat again and a nice new set of pads all round, should transform it I hope.
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