running rich and cool??

[srdtvr]

My 1993 pre-serp Chimaera is running cool - unusual for a start and also running too rich
I would think a sensor is down or maybe thermostat ?
Anyone got ideas please.
I did change the fuel temp sensor but made no difference
Thanks
Steve

[chris1972]

srdtvr said:

My 1993 pre-serp Chimaera is running cool - unusual for a start and also running too rich
I would think a sensor is down or maybe thermostat ?
Anyone got ideas please.
I did change the fuel temp sensor but made no difference
Thanks
Steve

How are you measuring the running temperature? If you're using the coolant gauge, I wouldn't take anything that says as even remotely serious. Rovergauge is the best way.

[srdtvr]

ROVERGAUGE ?
I was just using temp gauge - it was showing a high temp now showing a lower temp which slowly rises
it used to warm up a lot quicker

[meths]

Might be the thermostat stuck open. Wouldn't rule out a dodgy gauge or sensor though.


Do the heaters work as well as they used to?

[chris1972]

srdtvr said:

ROVERGAUGE ?
I was just using temp gauge - it was showing a high temp now showing a lower temp which slowly rises
it used to warm up a lot quicker

The original TVR temp gauge always under reads. It is the fault of the temp sender, not the gauge. It really is useless. Mine reads about 20 degrees less than actual temperature. Part of this problem is where the temperature sender sits (beneath the thermostat housing in the intake manifold). Basically, it isn't really submerged in the coolant, so gives a much cooler reading. Your fans should kick in at 95 degrees, which will give you and indication of how far out the gauge is.

One way to measure this accurately is via the ECU is using Rovergauge. The Rovergauge software is free and will run on a PC. The lead to connect from the ECU in the pax footwell is about £35 and can be found in the classifieds. It is a useful thing to have and allows you to see much more than the coolant temp! If you can't see the lead in the classifieds, PM Blitzracing via PH (see thread below) as he makes them:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=113...

As for the best temperature sender to use; the original Land rover sender is already fitted to the car and is close to the TVR sender (on the intake manifold - pax side). It is fitted in a much better location and likely to be submerged in the coolant. The problem is that the Land Rover sender isn't calibrated to the TVR gauge. Some people advocate using a variable resistor to try and correct this, but this only gives an accurate reading at the right temperature and apparently under reads as the car gets hotter.To combat the problem, I've purchased one of these (haven't received it yet):

http://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/vehicle-el....

This should allow me to use the original Land Rover sender and correctly calibrate the output to the gauge. I'll use the Rovergauge software to give me an accurate reading from the ECU.

If your heaters in the car are blowing out cool or luke warm air, you may have an airlock or a coolant leak, so I wouldn't rule out checking for this first and checking the coolant levels. If your temperature begins to drop when the fans kick in, then it is a good indication that the water is circulating and the thermostat is opening and closing. It is of course possible to have a stuck thermostat, but I would rule out a few things before changing it. If it is stuck open, the car will never really get up to temperature and if it is closed, it is likely to overheat as it will not be able to adequately circulate the water.

HTH.

Edited by chris1972 on Friday 7th June 11:40

Freekin Mac predictive text!

Edited by chris1972 on Friday 7th June 13:40