Hot, Hotter, Melting

[poorpeet]

Has anyone ever managed to get cold air out of the air vents?
I've had a look under the dash & the hot/cold wheel is moving the wire that attaches to what i assume to be the valve that lets more or less hot water into the matrix. Even when fully closed I still get (very)hot air. Am I missing something like a bypass. Is there a cure at all?

[matttav]

In F1 they fill the side pods with dry ice... could be effective!

[shnozz]

never heard of a TVR producing anything cooler than "mild" air.

[gf350]

Mines got aircon which cools it down a bit.
GF

[Jem]

good question...

J

[alex200mph]

Its either the flap that is not letting in enough fresh air or its blocked or the valve is not working correctly at shutting off the warm water in the heating matrix.

If you take the matt and carpetted panel out of the passengers side footwell then poke your head in the footwell and look up you will see a black box. As you turn the fresh air wheel you should be able to hear the flap in the black heater box open and close. If the cable is connected properly!

The valve will be in the pipework into the box (its a small plastic valve) and you can check the the wire is correctly connected to this and the valve opening and closing properly

Try those two for starters.

>> Edited by alex200mph on Friday 8th October 16:18

[poorpeet]

Alex
The wire from the wheel goes to a valve in the front lh corner in the top of the passenger foot well. That seems to be working ok & moves across an arc of about 30 degrees. I cant hear any flap closing but then neither can I see a cable other than the one to the valve.

[shnozz]

poorpeet said:

Alex The wire from the wheel goes to a valve in the front lh corner in the top of the passenger foot well. That seems to be working ok & moves across an arc of about 30 degrees. I cant hear any flap closing but then neither can I see a cable other than the one to the valve.

when the heater cable snapped on mine I moved that arc manually and the difference between the temperatures was so little I couldnt work out which way was "hot" and which way was "cold"

[spend]

The heater bypass maybe missing. You should have a kind of H shaped lump of metal which the heater pipes connect to, I dont think the valve is strong enough to stop flow to the heater matrix unless the bypass is present and working.

On my 5,500 mile jaunt thru Italy I can confirm that ceranic coated manifolds cured any fibreglass odours, and made car far cooler & more comfortable. Well worth the £300 and hassle.

Dave

[philr]

was that £300 for just the coating or did that include removal and refit ?

I was considering wrapping the manifold in heat insulation tape (expected cost about £100 + skinned knuckles), but if this was £300 all fitted then I'd consider that option.

[spend]

Philr, that was just the cost of ceramic coating at cam-u-coat. They needed the manifolds and y-pieces for 2 weeks, I took them off & delivered/collected myself from Warrington. This did include coating 2 y pieces (1 with cat & 1 without) as well as a set of manifolds.

Dave

[Flintstone]

philr said:

I was considering wrapping the manifold in heat insulation tape.......

I did this on a kit-car and was saved from an embarrassing mistake by someone who warned me to replace any rubber exhaust hangers with steel springs.

Apparently the heat bandage causes heat that would otherwise radiate from the manifolds to be transferred downstream where it melts the rubber blocks.

Just so you know.