Where can I get a High flow aluminium Radiator?
Discussion
Hi everyone, just bought my first seven and having tinkered around with it today, I've decided it probably needs a new radiator!
Its a 1600 vx Classic SE. I've googled around for a high flow Aluminium radiator and have found these ones (http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/category.php?id_category=990) but they are out of stock.
Does anyone know anywhere else that may sell them? I've found a few but they all say 'generally for K-series'...
Cheers
Dan
Its a 1600 vx Classic SE. I've googled around for a high flow Aluminium radiator and have found these ones (http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/category.php?id_category=990) but they are out of stock.
Does anyone know anywhere else that may sell them? I've found a few but they all say 'generally for K-series'...
Cheers
Dan
Edited by danuneek on Monday 10th June 00:16
Cheers mate, is this the one you mean?
http://radtec.co.uk/products/227/Caterham-7.htm
http://radtec.co.uk/products/227/Caterham-7.htm
Edited by danuneek on Monday 10th June 09:53
It is, make sure you order by phone though as discounts can often be negotiated with radtec (L7C has one set up).
Radiators for our cars are interchangable with k-series as both have the same size spigots in roughly the same positions, the only thing which might be placed a bit differently is the fan switch but the original wiring is long enough for this not to be a problem in my experience.
Radiators for our cars are interchangable with k-series as both have the same size spigots in roughly the same positions, the only thing which might be placed a bit differently is the fan switch but the original wiring is long enough for this not to be a problem in my experience.
First of all, who cares! If your enjoying your car, it doesn't matter what other people think...
Anyway, of the 8v Vauxhall / live axle car- It is and always was an 'entry level' model, so it is comparatively low powered and has a live axle instead of a De-Dion rear suspension arrangement. More expensive models got k-series or 16v Vauxhall engines.
The engine gets criticised for being heavy, low powered and 'difficult to tune'. This is all true to an extent but the car still weighs less than 520kg, so even with that 'meagre' 100bhp it's still a potent little car and that simple engine is incredibly tough.
The live axle means that overall weight for the rolling chassis is lower for the live axle car than the De-Dion, however the all-important unsprung mass is greater. This compromises ride comfort and stability over bumps and irregularities in the road. The De-Dion is better in this respect but either chassis can handle incredibly well and if you drive on track the live axle doesn't feel like a disadvantage at all. The only problem is that differentials and half shafts can fail with rough treatment. Differential can be protected by overfilling the axle with oil (mine has 3L in it!). Half shafts shouldn't start to become a problem unless you are driving the car very hard on track.
Personally I bought mine to race in the Caterham Graduates Racing Club which has a category for this exact model and attracts grids of ~20 cars. My car is the same as yours except for upgraded half shafts. I have kept the car since 2009 and have felt no need for a quicker car because the emphasis is on driver skill and all the cars are the same.
If trackdays have taught me anything it's that plenty of people have 'faster' cars but go slower on track. I think that's because having comparatively small power output encourages you to find speed in the corners which is essentially what these cars are all about.
P.S. resist the temptation to put grippy tyres on, I found the power / grip ratio of the car is at it's best with road tyres. Grippy tyres will also place more strain on the diff and half shafts.
Anyway, of the 8v Vauxhall / live axle car- It is and always was an 'entry level' model, so it is comparatively low powered and has a live axle instead of a De-Dion rear suspension arrangement. More expensive models got k-series or 16v Vauxhall engines.
The engine gets criticised for being heavy, low powered and 'difficult to tune'. This is all true to an extent but the car still weighs less than 520kg, so even with that 'meagre' 100bhp it's still a potent little car and that simple engine is incredibly tough.
The live axle means that overall weight for the rolling chassis is lower for the live axle car than the De-Dion, however the all-important unsprung mass is greater. This compromises ride comfort and stability over bumps and irregularities in the road. The De-Dion is better in this respect but either chassis can handle incredibly well and if you drive on track the live axle doesn't feel like a disadvantage at all. The only problem is that differentials and half shafts can fail with rough treatment. Differential can be protected by overfilling the axle with oil (mine has 3L in it!). Half shafts shouldn't start to become a problem unless you are driving the car very hard on track.
Personally I bought mine to race in the Caterham Graduates Racing Club which has a category for this exact model and attracts grids of ~20 cars. My car is the same as yours except for upgraded half shafts. I have kept the car since 2009 and have felt no need for a quicker car because the emphasis is on driver skill and all the cars are the same.
If trackdays have taught me anything it's that plenty of people have 'faster' cars but go slower on track. I think that's because having comparatively small power output encourages you to find speed in the corners which is essentially what these cars are all about.
P.S. resist the temptation to put grippy tyres on, I found the power / grip ratio of the car is at it's best with road tyres. Grippy tyres will also place more strain on the diff and half shafts.
Edited by HustleRussell on Monday 10th June 17:30
You have a cooling issue which is not your radiator. I ran a 300bhp VX with no need for anything other than the standard (non-triple bypass)radiator. The standard alloy rad is ample for a very powerful engine. The steel rad is fine for 150bhp.
Have you checked you have the electric fan sucking not blowing the air forwards?
Have you raised the front of the car a foot off the ground and run it until the stat opens with the header tank lid off?
Have you checked the stat actually works (in a saucepan of boiling water)? They are prone to failure, and the car will run hot rather than fully overheat - especially if someone has drilled small holes in the stat body (a common way to shop heat shock when the stat opens)
Have you checked you have the electric fan sucking not blowing the air forwards?
Have you raised the front of the car a foot off the ground and run it until the stat opens with the header tank lid off?
Have you checked the stat actually works (in a saucepan of boiling water)? They are prone to failure, and the car will run hot rather than fully overheat - especially if someone has drilled small holes in the stat body (a common way to shop heat shock when the stat opens)
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