996 3.6 engine rebuild required. No.6 trouble - DIY?
996 3.6 engine rebuild required. No.6 trouble - DIY?
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justinbaker

Original Poster:

1,339 posts

278 months

Wednesday 12th June 2013
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The initial message was deleted from this topic on 03 July 2013 at 17:28

justinbaker

Original Poster:

1,339 posts

278 months

Wednesday 12th June 2013
quotequote all
The initial message was deleted from this topic on 26 November 2013 at 16:49

dom9

8,673 posts

239 months

Wednesday 12th June 2013
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justinbaker said:
An option also would be to purchase just that bank rather than machine my own.
What are the chances of an engine being broken for parts?
I think they have to be matched/ bought in pairs...

I'm not sure I'd attempt a re-sleeve myself but sleeves used to be available on US eBay, of all places and were very reasonable!

I guess you chop most of the old sleeve out, bore what's left somewhat, heat the block and slip a new sleeve in, making sure it's well located...

that makes it sound easy and I am sure it isn't but I will be following this with interest as a home-build solution could really improve the 'market' for these cars!

Rockster

1,515 posts

190 months

Wednesday 12th June 2013
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How do you know the bore's scored? Ticking is not generally a symptom of a scored bore. And this scored bore problem does not generally show up (if if shows up at all) in the older 996 engines.

The ticking could be a number of things from a loose plug, to a collapsed lifter, a flat cam lobe, a noisy injector, an exhaust leak, to name the possible causes that come to mind. And my list is not complete.

Before you rebuild the engine get a mechanic's stethoscope and pinpoint as near as you can the exact location of the ticking. Once you know where its coming from then you have a better idea of what it is from and what to do to fix it.

Pope

2,653 posts

277 months

Friday 14th June 2013
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Justin, the engine is not a massively complicated build but there are some very specific tools and processes that must be used when putting it back together; using hartech to do the bottom end has many advantages. Download the workshop manual from the source below and have a browse through the engine volumes - tool listings are all there too and a complete guide to removing and installing the engine/transmission assembly is in 'engine part 1' so worth looking at before commencing work.

http://www.2010.cannell.co.uk/manuals/manuals_pors...



Edited by Pope on Friday 14th June 10:39

Gary11

4,162 posts

231 months

Friday 14th June 2013
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Rockster said:
How do you know the bore's scored? Ticking is not generally a symptom of a scored bore. And this scored bore problem does not generally show up (if if shows up at all) in the older 996 engines.

The ticking could be a number of things from a loose plug, to a collapsed lifter, a flat cam lobe, a noisy injector, an exhaust leak, to name the possible causes that come to mind. And my list is not complete.

Before you rebuild the engine get a mechanic's stethoscope and pinpoint as near as you can the exact location of the ticking. Once you know where its coming from then you have a better idea of what it is from and what to do to fix it.
Belive it or not if you count the ticks over 30 secs or so Baz will tell you what it is,could be cam or tensioner(s),speak to Baz ref other jobs around a rebuild to prevent re occurrence a slight change here and there helps a lot as its obviously cause and effect to a degree.

Rockster

1,515 posts

190 months

Saturday 15th June 2013
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justinbaker said:
Bob, its previous owner had a borescope inspection confirming my troubles, and I have noticed when driving home some smoke as expected only very brief on a change down, when I heard a little more "rattle". Unfortunate, but a rebuild is required (to be honest its quite interesting in a oily engineer way too).
All the borescope inspection confirmed is there is something that looks like bore scoring sign in the cylinder. There's no way to measure the depth of the scoring.

I take it the engine is not misfiring? Then the scoring is not severe enough to effect the output of the cylinder.

A bit of smoke can be from valve stem seals. Or even perhaps a lousy AOS.

The ticking as I covered before can come from a variety of sources.

Seems premature me to rebuild an engine on such flimsy evidence but if you want to rebuild one have at it.

Wonder where'll you get the critical dimensions/tolerances? AFAIK these are not available from Porsche.

Gary11

4,162 posts

231 months

Saturday 15th June 2013
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Rockster said:
All the borescope inspection confirmed is there is something that looks like bore scoring sign in the cylinder. There's no way to measure the depth of the scoring.

I take it the engine is not misfiring? Then the scoring is not severe enough to effect the output of the cylinder.

A bit of smoke can be from valve stem seals. Or even perhaps a lousy AOS.

The ticking as I covered before can come from a variety of sources.

Seems premature me to rebuild an engine on such flimsy evidence but if you want to rebuild one have at it.

Wonder where'll you get the critical dimensions/tolerances? AFAIK these are not available from Porsche.
Lots of dealers I visit repair in house now just the affected cylinders with no mods or revisions,a reasonable level of expertise will get the job done,its not an ideal repair IMO.

Trev450

6,753 posts

202 months

Saturday 15th June 2013
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Gary11 said:
Lots of dealers I visit repair in house now just the affected cylinders with no mods or revisions,a reasonable level of expertise will get the job done,its not an ideal repair IMO.
Ageed its not an ideal repair. If you're going to do the job, do it once and do it right and that imo would include incorporating the Hartech mods.