Clonk

[Vee8ight]

Further to my other post, I changed my rear diff bushes as they were worn and I had a clonk. 3 diff bushes later, I still have a clonk, when going on/off accelerator. Is it more worn bushes somewhere or more serious?

[spongy]

have a look at your gear box mounts sir...or even the engine mounts

[Vee8ight]

spongy said:

have a look at your gear box mounts sir...or even the engine mounts

Thank you I will. Does anyone know what they are off, or are they tvr?

Darren

[ridds]

Does it start clocking as soon as you've changed the bushes or a little while after?

Are your front diff plates coming loose?

[Vee8ight]

ridds said:

Does it start clocking as soon as you've changed the bushes or a little while after?

Are your front diff plates coming loose?

It clonked before I changed them, that's what I thought it was the original fault, as they were shot! All the nuts and bolts are all tight, checked them last weekend

[C3BER]

Exhaust?

[Supateg]

Propshaft Joints?
C.V Joints?

[Luckyone]

I had that few years ago, change my diff bushes & the plates, but it still clonked. The diff itself needed rebuilding, the bushes being loose had really hammered it.

Try turning the prop shaft by hand, there should be very little play, if the prop shaft moves at all without the drive shafts turning the diff needs rebuilding.

Even after that, mine still clonked a bit, so the gearbox got a rebuild, then it finally stopped. (Of course then it started making other odd noises, that ended up with a full body off rebuild...)


It can't be said these are cheap cars to run

[Vee8ight]

Luckyone said:

I had that few years ago, change my diff bushes & the plates, but it still clonked. The diff itself needed rebuilding, the bushes being loose had really hammered it.

Try turning the prop shaft by hand, there should be very little play, if the prop shaft moves at all without the drive shafts turning the diff needs rebuilding.

Even after that, mine still clonked a bit, so the gearbox got a rebuild, then it finally stopped. (Of course then it started making other odd noises, that ended up with a full body off rebuild...)


It can't be said these are cheap cars to run

Thank you, that helps. My diff has got a small amount of play in it but no wear on the teeth. I've seen a lot worse on old sierras etc. I'll have a look at the prop too I think

[Luckyone]

Vee8ight said:

Thank you, that helps. My diff has got a small amount of play in it but no wear on the teeth. I've seen a lot worse on old sierras etc. I'll have a look at the prop too I think

I think my teeth were ok too, it was a long time ago now but I’m fairly sure it just needed the backlash resetting. But one of the side plates was a massive pain for the diff guy to shift, so it still ended up costing a fair bit.

It’s possible that on the old sierras you’ve seen the diff is held in a separate sub frame that also has its own rubbers to insulate you from any noise the diff was making.

[Luckyone]

ridds asked that question above because he had trouble with his plates coming loose after changing his bushes.

Also the upper mount can crack, but I’m sure you’d have noticed if it was when you were changing the bushes.

[Vee8ight]

Upper mount was fine and the 2 plates are double nutted. The rear plate had come loose, but made no difference when tightened.

[ridds]

My front right plate was loose before I changed the bushes. I tightened it a couple of times but it would keep working loose.

The upper mounting hole was actually elongated and no amount of tightening appear to sure it. I replaced the plate, threadlocked the bolt, torqued to 100Nm odd and put a Nyloc on the back!

It's now OK.

Might be worth trying to lever the diff up and down just to check. You put a LOT of torsional force through the diff.

[Vee8ight]

Yeah I think I'll get the crowbar out aswell too

[Vee8ight]

ridds said:

My front right plate was loose before I changed the bushes. I tightened it a couple of times but it would keep working loose.

The upper mounting hole was actually elongated and no amount of tightening appear to sure it. I replaced the plate, threadlocked the bolt, torqued to 100Nm odd and put a Nyloc on the back!

It's now OK.

Might be worth trying to lever the diff up and down just to check. You put a LOT of torsional force through the diff.

You win!

My right plate had come loose, but the lock nut was still tight! Retightened and all is good again.

Left lock nut has gone walkies, but bolt is still tight?

Can anyone advise me of what nut I need (Ridds, where did you get the nylocs from?)

[ridds]

Any Nyloc will do, I think they are M10.

Good if you can find one with a shallow nut section then you'll have a bit more access space.

[ridds]

Thread lock on the bolt as well and make sure there is no oil or grease in the threads. Don't thread lock the nut though.

[Vee8ight]

Thanks mate, I'll get 4 while at b&q today......