Replacing dash in next few weeks - what do I need?

[A900ss]

Other than a dash what else am I liable to break/need replacing when replacing my original dash?

I've been told I need some M12 starlock washers that secure some of the warning lights, some wingnuts to replace the nuts that hold the dash top in place (any idea) what size but what about LED's? Am I liable to break the old ones and need to repalce them?

I've never soldered so am hoping they will be OK.

Anything I need before I get started is appreciated.

PS - How long is it likely to take to fit a new leven dash?

Thanks all.

[swanny71]

Did mine a month or two ago.

I managed to re-use the old starlock washers - just be carful when removing them, though they can be straightened if they do get bent.

M6 wingnuts and penny washers. 10mm spanner to get the old ones off.

Araldite or similar to re-glue the warning lamp cluster mounting post to the back of the dash

Masking tape to protect your leather/vinyl when replacing the roll top dash

Digital camera - takes pics of everything before and during the removal process. Also label everything as you go.

I've got plenty of pics if you are unsure of anything in particular.

Edited by swanny71 on Tuesday 18th June 18:38

[jojackson4]

Plasters and tcp

[MADMAX2]

A900ss said:

Other than a dash what else am I liable to break/need replacing when replacing my original dash?

I've been told I need some M12 starlock washers that secure some of the warning lights, some wingnuts to replace the nuts that hold the dash top in place (any idea) what size but what about LED's? Am I liable to break the old ones and need to repalce them?

I've never soldered so am hoping they will be OK.

Anything I need before I get started is appreciated.

PS - How long is it likely to take to fit a new leven dash?

Thanks all.

you need M6 wingnuts LEDs should not be glued in it should take you 7 hours ish ive done the process (but not the Leven dash) 3 cars including mine and ive got it down to 3 hours ish ive got spare LEDs and some alloy LED holders instead of the plastic ones my record for getting my dash top off is around 33 seconds! easier with wingnuts ive removed the far right bolt entirely and put velcro just below the line of sight also remove one dial at a time remove leads take dial out put leads back on rest on dash in order...

should let me do it for beer tokens

[Cerberus90]

jojackson4 said:

Plasters and tcp

You forgot tweezers and magnifying glass to pull the fibreglass splinters out of your hand,

[jojackson4]

Cerberus90 said:

jojackson4 said:

Plasters and tcp

You forgot tweezers and magnifying glass to pull the fibreglass splinters out of your hand,

Chiropractors appointment 2 days later
Or take the seats out

[Derek Smith]

You could get a set of those bendy spanners. There is little room around the offside bolt and the one on the nearside under the screen takes about half a turn at first. I ground a 10mm spanner in half, or rather cut the 11mm end off.

Further, it can be handy to have insulating tape when refitting the rolltop. Put the spring and flat washer on the nuts first using the tape to secure and then put the nuts on. See http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/bent-spanner

A set can be handy when checking the manifold bolts.

On my Chim there were a number of loose wires. Whilst they had not done anything particularly flammable in the previous 10 years, removing the dash meant moving them around a bit. It takes a few seconds.

Take lots and lots of pictures. And then take some more.

Mr Garlick, can I give a little plug for my RV8 Resource? Dash removal and replacing is covered in that. See rv8r.co.uk

[A900ss]

jojackson4 said:

Cerberus90 said:

jojackson4 said:

Plasters and tcp

You forgot tweezers and magnifying glass to pull the fibreglass splinters out of your hand,

Chiropractors appointment 2 days later
Or take the seats out

Seats are out (well one is, the other is coming out soon) at moment...

[jojackson4]

Before you spend an hour looking for the bolt on the drivers side see if it moves that one seams to be forgotten when putting them back together
Spent 45/60mins looking groping around for it and there was nowt to find the bolt had gone aswell

[Andav469]

Get yourself some new LEDs for the heater controls, two of mine were very brittle and broke when trying to remove them from the original dash.
New LEDs in a new dash looks the business, there is a guy on eBay selling the correct ones for £15

One other tip - pull out the drivers side air vent and link pipe, the bolt is very easy to access with them removed

[Bassfiend229hp]

Andav469 said:

Get yourself some new LEDs for the heater controls, two of mine were very brittle and broke when trying to remove them from the original dash.
New LEDs in a new dash looks the business, there is a guy on eBay selling the correct ones for £15

One other tip - pull out the drivers side air vent and link pipe, the bolt is very easy to access with them removed

The LEDs should be glued into the metal frame that holds the heater controls - mine came out of the dash no problem and stayed in place in the heater controls block ... I have however just bought some 3mm flat top red and blue LEDs to replace the red and green originals. (Since when was green cold?)

[Mr Supercharged]

MADMAX2 said:

you need M6 wingnuts LEDs should not be glued in it should take you 7 hours ish ive done the process (but not the Leven dash) 3 cars including mine and ive got it down to 3 hours ish ive got spare LEDs and some alloy LED holders instead of the plastic ones my record for getting my dash top off is around 33 seconds! easier with wingnuts ive removed the far right bolt entirely and put velcro just below the line of sight also remove one dial at a time remove leads take dial out put leads back on rest on dash in order...

should let me do it for beer tokens

That is a good idea, I too have been thinking of using velcro instead of the offside bolt. That bolt is a pain in the ar$e to get to.