Will i have a problem after lay-up
Discussion
My Griff 500 has been sulking under the car port since October whilst we had some building work done. It was blocked in by a temporary mobile home (don't ask).
I removed the battery as it seemed easier than keeping it plugged in, and now as I draw close to getting the Griff out, will I have an issue.
is there an internal immobiliser battery or anything that will have discharged and refuse to wake up ?
thanks
I removed the battery as it seemed easier than keeping it plugged in, and now as I draw close to getting the Griff out, will I have an issue.
is there an internal immobiliser battery or anything that will have discharged and refuse to wake up ?
thanks
FFMan said:
My Griff 500 has been sulking under the car port since October whilst we had some building work done. It was blocked in by a temporary mobile home (don't ask).
I removed the battery as it seemed easier than keeping it plugged in, and now as I draw close to getting the Griff out, will I have an issue.
is there an internal immobiliser battery or anything that will have discharged and refuse to wake up ?
thanks
I lay my Griff up every year for approximately 3 months over the worst Winter period. As I am normally getting on with projects etc it is up on axle stands. It has never failed to start after this period (first time every time) and run fine. I do though use a battery trickle/conditioning charger left on all the time, I am lucky to have a double garage to keep her in. I would advise the following before running your Griff:I removed the battery as it seemed easier than keeping it plugged in, and now as I draw close to getting the Griff out, will I have an issue.
is there an internal immobiliser battery or anything that will have discharged and refuse to wake up ?
thanks
1. Ensure brakes are OK, not stuck on, fluid up to max. I would personally pump the brake pedal a few times to at least operate master cylinder etc. Be prepared for the brake pads to be stuck onto the discs. Disks will be rusty so they will either need the wheels taking off and discs cleaned down with wire wool etc, or gently using them once on the move
2. Hopefully you have not left the handbrake on! It is not advisable to leave the handbrake on over long periods; can stretch the cable etc.
3. Of course check all fluids are up to level
4. Pump the clutch pedal a few times to get the fluid and release mechanism moving. Its only a possibility, but your clutch plate could be stuck to the flywheel! Being outside moisture and condensation can cause plates to stick. There are methods to easily release it if it is the case. Be prepared for this.
5. Do not gun the engine when it starts, let it settle down and warm up before moving it.
6. I would be very prudent to check under the car for any leaks from gearbox, differential etc.
8. Lastly - enjoy getting back to driving the Griff
The above are just a few thoughts to take as you wish. All the best, Pete
PeteGriff said:
I lay my Griff up every year for approximately 3 months over the worst Winter period. As I am normally getting on with projects etc it is up on axle stands. It has never failed to start after this period (first time every time) and run fine. I do though use a battery trickle/conditioning charger left on all the time, I am lucky to have a double garage to keep her in. I would advise the following before running your Griff:
1. Ensure brakes are OK, not stuck on, fluid up to max. I would personally pump the brake pedal a few times to at least operate master cylinder etc. Be prepared for the brake pads to be stuck onto the discs. Disks will be rusty so they will either need the wheels taking off and discs cleaned down with wire wool etc, or gently using them once on the move
2. Hopefully you have not left the handbrake on! It is not advisable to leave the handbrake on over long periods; can stretch the cable etc.
3. Of course check all fluids are up to level
4. Pump the clutch pedal a few times to get the fluid and release mechanism moving. Its only a possibility, but your clutch plate could be stuck to the flywheel! Being outside moisture and condensation can cause plates to stick. There are methods to easily release it if it is the case. Be prepared for this.
5. Do not gun the engine when it starts, let it settle down and warm up before moving it.
6. I would be very prudent to check under the car for any leaks from gearbox, differential etc.
8. Lastly - enjoy getting back to driving the Griff
The above are just a few thoughts to take as you wish. All the best, Pete
+1 spot on advice.1. Ensure brakes are OK, not stuck on, fluid up to max. I would personally pump the brake pedal a few times to at least operate master cylinder etc. Be prepared for the brake pads to be stuck onto the discs. Disks will be rusty so they will either need the wheels taking off and discs cleaned down with wire wool etc, or gently using them once on the move
2. Hopefully you have not left the handbrake on! It is not advisable to leave the handbrake on over long periods; can stretch the cable etc.
3. Of course check all fluids are up to level
4. Pump the clutch pedal a few times to get the fluid and release mechanism moving. Its only a possibility, but your clutch plate could be stuck to the flywheel! Being outside moisture and condensation can cause plates to stick. There are methods to easily release it if it is the case. Be prepared for this.
5. Do not gun the engine when it starts, let it settle down and warm up before moving it.
6. I would be very prudent to check under the car for any leaks from gearbox, differential etc.
8. Lastly - enjoy getting back to driving the Griff
The above are just a few thoughts to take as you wish. All the best, Pete
Dougal said:
OK, how about after 7 years, engine turns freely by hand, brakes work, handbrake not ceased and clutch plates seem fine. What about priming the oil pump, luring the bores etc prior to startup, all fluids were fresh when laid up and all levels are correct?
Hi Dougal, even though fluids were fresh before lay up, it is highly recommended ALL fluids are changed, in particular the hydraulic fluids as they deteriorate and absorb moisture over time. Just taking the plugs out and squirting a little oil in and turning over to prime up oil and get some around should be OK. Drain fuel tank and pump through new clean fuel. Change fuel filter. Check all coolant hoses. After above, with clean new fuel, oil, filters and battery, and new plugs, as long as you are getting a spark and fuel is bing injected she should fire. Be very careful not to rev the engine too much just let it warm up and check for leaks etc.
Good luck mate, Pete
Dougal said:
Thanks Pete, fingers crossed.
I can confirm that 7 year old Optimax works nicely in the chainsaw and lawn mower, can also confirm that it doesn't make good mouthwash.
Doug
Nice one Doug, depends whether you have false teeth or not............I can confirm that 7 year old Optimax works nicely in the chainsaw and lawn mower, can also confirm that it doesn't make good mouthwash.
Doug
On a more serious note, oils can and do deteriorate after long dormant spells in and engine. What with moisture etc and the gradual breaking down there can be acidic deposits, always best to clear out all old oils and start fresh., Regards, Pete
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! however, me and the littlun might make it up in the er other car (BMW-I'll park it out of the way), and have our usual wander round.