starter motor

[shell]

My starter motor is playing up, each time I press the stat button it just makes a mechanical sound. It is like the starte isnt meshing with the fly wheel. Any advice and approximate replacment cost welcome.

Cheers all

[gazzab]

there are plenty of old threads on here - place that can exchange, place for new ones and even people whoo know how you can repair them yourself.

[gbbird]

I got a recon starter motor fitted a while back - cost about £380 all in

[buba]

i had a similar problem recently and found that the bolts holding the starter had come lose. if you take the battery cover off you can get your arm in to see, if it is my advise is loctite and spring washer, that should hold it.

good luck

[shell]

Crazy, but true, it started no problem last night!! I'm suspecting it will happen again!

[Tatlow]

I'm on my 4th starter motor in 3 years, so I know the problem - it usually gives up the ghost on a petrol station forecourt or similarly embarrassing place!

Have spent a lot on a couple of brand new starter motors and they didn't last any longer than the recons. Takes about 30-45 mins to change them if you know what you're doing.

[easto]

Mines on its 3rd this year....
January (previous owner)
June - Replacement put on by dealer
August - recon one fitted.

Many fingers crossed - last one did fail me for 30mins in a car park..but then mysteriously worked fine since then - think it was due to temp. guage was over 110

think recon have 6 months guarantee

[SXS]

Wait till you see my new starter motor design....

[GreenV8S]

According to Mod-Wise many of these problems are caused by an inadequate supply to the solenoid rather than a faulty starter. Have any Cerbera owners tried the Mod-Wise wiring upgrade?

[SXS]

GreenV8S said:

According to Mod-Wise many of these problems are caused by an inadequate supply to the solenoid rather than a faulty starter. Have any Cerbera owners tried the Mod-Wise wiring upgrade?

Problem is, the starter motor is right there with all the heat, and the vibrations from the gearbox... ideal location for any mechanical thing as tiny as a tilton racing superstarter to bugger up....
plus - the tilton superstarter wasnt designed for so many starts like a regular starter... the BMW starter in the tuscans is in a lot better place and lot more reliable - any tuscan starters fail on anyone?

[froggie]

my starter failed the first time i tried to start mine,after putting a jump lead from the soloarnoid case to the-ve batery terminol she started,the fault was in the -ve conections under the ns wheel arch,once cleaned she started ok for ages .
until it let me down on a session at croft then when she did start up again,it was short lived and left me stranded sideways across the circuit,(after spinning due to over heated +total brake failure)had to be towed off,nice car pitty they dont stop or start.
needles to say thats why its on one of our 2post lifts in our central heated workshop.with new starter,s/s decat exorst &awating disks tomorrow &im sat here writing this enjoying driving another reno.

[joospeed]

GreenV8S said:

According to Mod-Wise many of these problems are caused by an inadequate supply to the solenoid rather than a faulty starter. Have any Cerbera owners tried the Mod-Wise wiring upgrade?

Didn't know there was one .. the cerbie gets it's starter solonoid feed through a 30 amp relay anyway .. what does the mod wise kit do? .. I'd have thought 30amps was enough to make any starter solonoid work? .. especially as the cable only looks 5amps worth ...

Most cerbie starter faults are caused by bad earths as froggie says and poor battery power .. the engine kicks back against the starter one way clutch if it's doesn't spin over fast enough on the starter , quickly destroying it (high pitched grinding noise anyone? .. change your battery and clean all connections) .. other than that the solonoid being heat affected just like rover V8 starters is the other known fault.

[david beer]

So far all Griffs and Chims that have added a relay in the footwell, have cured the "hot start". From the footwell onwards is nice heavy cable, unlike the cable up to this point! If you were to put the relay at the ignition switch, it would make no difference, it has to be at the last point.
Just to add, this is only for a solenoid throw problem.

>> Edited by david beer on Thursday 14th October 19:29

[simond001]

Good news on starters. Curds have been working with a manufacturer to supply a new stronger starter motor. Being a thicket I don't know why its better, or how its better but they have assured me that it's a big improvement on the original.

I believe that Joolz has been testing it in cars already.

Cue call Curds 01892 542680 (ask for Tim) or Joolz 01246 456660.

[SXS]

The best starter out there is a hand cranking pulley system!

So you have a little window winder type thing and you spin it around, and using a number of cogs and gearing - it turns the engine over...

What more do you want? never have worries about starter failure again - unless your arm drops off...

[froggie]

mine has the relay THROWN in the foot well,along with the engine ecu.is it not std?,mine is not wired corectly ,as it has the(generosley discribed) 5a soanoyed feed wire still in place,to be chequed out &changed tomorrow.
dose the alternator fuse have a home to bolt to ?or is it also HELD TOGETHER WITH A" modern" SHOE STRING
ie tie wrap?
(another bracket needed to hold it & the penile looking clutch bleed,along with the starter heat sheeld to be fabricated)
also a group of 4 wires 1ft long from the engine management harness (sleived together)wich were just BARE ends, any one any idears what theyre for?

[david beer]

The solenoid wiring from the footwell in a Griff & Chim is of "Range Rover" quality, so putting a relay in at that point, ensures a strong pull ! If the Cerb has 5a wiring from the relay, maybe thats the same, "hot start" results. I know nothing about Cerbs, over to Joolz.