Discussion
Thinking of investing in a a Maguiars polisher buffer to enhance the shine on my 2004 XJR. Been on Ebay and feel totally brainwashed by the amount of products and what they do. ie the different compounds, swirl removers and polish types.
All I want is to be able to make the beast look very nice. I use "Showroom Shine" after washing it, and though it looks ok it soon gathers dust overnight and looks pants if the rain is allowed to dry. Unfortunately it's not garaged so I always have to keep on top of it.
The Meguiars looks like the tool, and I'm used to handling power tools. I've watched some videos on Utube and want advice on which waxes/compounds others use. 3M, mirror glaze(too many types on offer), Autoglym, Sonus SFX,Poorboys world it's a total minefield, Gotta jump in somewhere I guess, just don't want to make a total arse of myself
All I want is to be able to make the beast look very nice. I use "Showroom Shine" after washing it, and though it looks ok it soon gathers dust overnight and looks pants if the rain is allowed to dry. Unfortunately it's not garaged so I always have to keep on top of it.
The Meguiars looks like the tool, and I'm used to handling power tools. I've watched some videos on Utube and want advice on which waxes/compounds others use. 3M, mirror glaze(too many types on offer), Autoglym, Sonus SFX,Poorboys world it's a total minefield, Gotta jump in somewhere I guess, just don't want to make a total arse of myself
When I used to read detailing world a few years ago the advice was to use a Porter Cable machine (or similar) which is a DA (Dual Action).
All the different compounds and abrasive levels are for paint correction, which isn't what you really want to do. Some of these compounds will take the paint/lacquer off the car very easily if you aren't sure what you're doing!
Assuming the car is lacquered I'd get a DA, wash the car (consider a snowfoam/pressure washer), clay it, wash it again and then use the DA with a polishing/finishing pad and something like 3M Ultrafina. This will just pretty much polish what you have without removing any/much of the paint/lacquer on the car - certainly you shouldn't damage the paint with it.
I'd give the car a good going over, maybe do it twice and then use a wax, 2 coats to start with. You don't need to pay loads for wax, £20-30 stuff will work wonders. From there on just wash the car and add another coat of wax. 2 or 3 times a year use a strong shampoo (often known as APC) to strip all the wax etc and start from scratch (wash->clay->polish->wax).
Refer to detailing world anyway, just don't get carried away by the geeks on there that tell you buying loads of stuff is essential, it isn't really. To be honest the route I suggest above is pretty extravagant, you could just use autogylm super resin polish (the red label stuff) by hand and wax afterwards and it'd look fine.
All the different compounds and abrasive levels are for paint correction, which isn't what you really want to do. Some of these compounds will take the paint/lacquer off the car very easily if you aren't sure what you're doing!
Assuming the car is lacquered I'd get a DA, wash the car (consider a snowfoam/pressure washer), clay it, wash it again and then use the DA with a polishing/finishing pad and something like 3M Ultrafina. This will just pretty much polish what you have without removing any/much of the paint/lacquer on the car - certainly you shouldn't damage the paint with it.
I'd give the car a good going over, maybe do it twice and then use a wax, 2 coats to start with. You don't need to pay loads for wax, £20-30 stuff will work wonders. From there on just wash the car and add another coat of wax. 2 or 3 times a year use a strong shampoo (often known as APC) to strip all the wax etc and start from scratch (wash->clay->polish->wax).
Refer to detailing world anyway, just don't get carried away by the geeks on there that tell you buying loads of stuff is essential, it isn't really. To be honest the route I suggest above is pretty extravagant, you could just use autogylm super resin polish (the red label stuff) by hand and wax afterwards and it'd look fine.
I have recently got slightly more seriously into my car cleaning and can share what I use, though I am by no means a pro by any stretch of the imagination.
Start cleaning, if you can a decent snow foam you can connect to your hose and leave to sit on the car and work in before rinsing off (if you are using a bucket and snow foam mixed in then use a micro fibre or lambs wool washing mitt, ensuring as little rubbing of the car as possible). Grit guards in buckets are a must and two bucket, one for upper and one for lower body are a good idea. Also two washing mitts respectively.
Hose down car, at this point it’s worth mentioning an inline water purifier, purchasable for not too huge money but removes lime scale etc from the water. not essential but another helping step.
Next dry the car. Something like an autoglym synthetic chamois is good. Lay it flat, pat it down and then squeeze water out. Repeat until car is dry. Again as little rubbing and possibly moving small particles about over the car as you can creating tiny little scratches as they go.
Once dry a decent clay kit. A must, this is one step that can't be missed as it provide a clean surface for all your hard work and the best look. Make sure when claying you use a lot of lubricant, keep kneading the clay so the dirty side doesn’t stay on the paint work at all. best to tear off small bits and bin as you use. I find just under a normal bar does a decent size coupe.
once clayed, a high resin polish (comes in some clay kits), on and off with micro fibre cloths. A notable point here is whether to mask your car or not? You can mask gaps where polish may accumulate but im lazy and use cotton wool buds in these places to remove unwanted dirt and polish.
Once polished a decent hard shell wax (HD wax kit I use which I like, there are much better out there but this won't break the bank, will give you a lot of applications, comes with the bits you need for it).
These are the steps I use for the exterior body work and I have noticed an immeasurable difference in how my car looks. At the end of the day if you have a 2004 car there will be mark and swirls that will be difficult to remove but I think the steps above will give you a finish that would amaze you.
Hope this helps, happy cleaning!
Oh also thats without a buffer, that would give an even better finish to the wax stage!
Start cleaning, if you can a decent snow foam you can connect to your hose and leave to sit on the car and work in before rinsing off (if you are using a bucket and snow foam mixed in then use a micro fibre or lambs wool washing mitt, ensuring as little rubbing of the car as possible). Grit guards in buckets are a must and two bucket, one for upper and one for lower body are a good idea. Also two washing mitts respectively.
Hose down car, at this point it’s worth mentioning an inline water purifier, purchasable for not too huge money but removes lime scale etc from the water. not essential but another helping step.
Next dry the car. Something like an autoglym synthetic chamois is good. Lay it flat, pat it down and then squeeze water out. Repeat until car is dry. Again as little rubbing and possibly moving small particles about over the car as you can creating tiny little scratches as they go.
Once dry a decent clay kit. A must, this is one step that can't be missed as it provide a clean surface for all your hard work and the best look. Make sure when claying you use a lot of lubricant, keep kneading the clay so the dirty side doesn’t stay on the paint work at all. best to tear off small bits and bin as you use. I find just under a normal bar does a decent size coupe.
once clayed, a high resin polish (comes in some clay kits), on and off with micro fibre cloths. A notable point here is whether to mask your car or not? You can mask gaps where polish may accumulate but im lazy and use cotton wool buds in these places to remove unwanted dirt and polish.
Once polished a decent hard shell wax (HD wax kit I use which I like, there are much better out there but this won't break the bank, will give you a lot of applications, comes with the bits you need for it).
These are the steps I use for the exterior body work and I have noticed an immeasurable difference in how my car looks. At the end of the day if you have a 2004 car there will be mark and swirls that will be difficult to remove but I think the steps above will give you a finish that would amaze you.
Hope this helps, happy cleaning!
Oh also thats without a buffer, that would give an even better finish to the wax stage!
I haven't cleaned my car in over a month to be honest. When you're driving it you can't see what it looks like so why clean it to make it look good to others?
It is nicer for walking into it but it's the driving that counts
However, I do have phases of polishing my car and I use Autoglym, it does the job very well.
It is nicer for walking into it but it's the driving that counts
However, I do have phases of polishing my car and I use Autoglym, it does the job very well.
I have a black car,black is the s
t when it's polished,looks bloody good.
I use three products on my car for that shine everyone wants.
Turtle wax liquid wax ice (only on side panels,not the roof or bonnet as its a bh to work with)
Black colour magic on the bonnet to mask stone chips.
Autoglym ultra deep shine for dark coloured cars.
When it's done it's a right head turner,not because of the car(BMW e91), but because f the finish on it.
Two bucket wash method.
Chamois off.
Colour magic over the bonnet first,with a damp cloth to ease removal,colour magic is thick stuff,leave it on to dry.
Whilst drying I will work the Autoglym into the front bumper area and wings,allow to dry.
Move back to the bonnet and buff the colour magic (microfibre cloths)
Back to the wings,bumper and buff.
Then use Autoglym in one swoop around the car and roof and buff when finished.
Inspect the bonnet to see if more colour magic is needed,apply and buff If so.
Now the hard part,liquid wax. Liquid wax on dark cars is a bh to buff up,last time I dd it ,it took 2 hours in buffing alone,all by hand too. I was sweating buckets,drank easy 4 pints of water on a warm muggy day doing this. It hazes up for buffing and on dark cars it seems to haze up again which requires double buffing,it takes a lot of effort to buff it up so doing it twice is a killer.
Hence why I don't put it on the roof.
The finish when you have it is really good,the car will have a really deep,glass type mirror shine to it. People really do stop and look as they can see themselves in it. Had quite a few good comments as to how it looks when I,ve parked somewhere.
It's a lot of hardworking though.
For when I can't be bothered and when BMW had their own polish on offer for £5 i use that,very easy to wrk with ,and has decent results . Did my other halfs Clio with it and tht looked good.
t when it's polished,looks bloody good. I use three products on my car for that shine everyone wants.
Turtle wax liquid wax ice (only on side panels,not the roof or bonnet as its a b
h to work with)Black colour magic on the bonnet to mask stone chips.
Autoglym ultra deep shine for dark coloured cars.
When it's done it's a right head turner,not because of the car(BMW e91), but because f the finish on it.
Two bucket wash method.
Chamois off.
Colour magic over the bonnet first,with a damp cloth to ease removal,colour magic is thick stuff,leave it on to dry.
Whilst drying I will work the Autoglym into the front bumper area and wings,allow to dry.
Move back to the bonnet and buff the colour magic (microfibre cloths)
Back to the wings,bumper and buff.
Then use Autoglym in one swoop around the car and roof and buff when finished.
Inspect the bonnet to see if more colour magic is needed,apply and buff If so.
Now the hard part,liquid wax. Liquid wax on dark cars is a b
h to buff up,last time I dd it ,it took 2 hours in buffing alone,all by hand too. I was sweating buckets,drank easy 4 pints of water on a warm muggy day doing this. It hazes up for buffing and on dark cars it seems to haze up again which requires double buffing,it takes a lot of effort to buff it up so doing it twice is a killer.Hence why I don't put it on the roof.
The finish when you have it is really good,the car will have a really deep,glass type mirror shine to it. People really do stop and look as they can see themselves in it. Had quite a few good comments as to how it looks when I,ve parked somewhere.
It's a lot of hardworking though.
For when I can't be bothered and when BMW had their own polish on offer for £5 i use that,very easy to wrk with ,and has decent results . Did my other halfs Clio with it and tht looked good.
If its a dark car use Poorboys Black Hole, incredible stuff, hides swirls, gives a massive amount of shine!
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/glazes/poorboys-blac...
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/glazes/poorboys-blac...
Crafty_ said:
Refer to detailing world anyway, just don't get carried away by the geeks on there that tell you buying loads of stuff is essential, it isn't really. To be honest the route I suggest above is pretty extravagant, you could just use autogylm super resin polish (the red label stuff) by hand and wax afterwards and it'd look fine.
Exactly this IMHO! I decided to "detail" one of my cars and after being bombarded with info from detailingworld I felt less sure about what I needed than before I'd researched it! In the end I bought the Autoglym Super Resin Polish with the red label, gave it a good going by hand and it looked awesome at the end. I'm sure a proper detailer would have made it look better but unless you've got an expensive car I don't think the extra cost is justified. Just my opinion of course.
Detailing World these days has far too many 'geeks' eager to use/promote the latest must have products
they changes waxes/sprays more often than I change my underwear (and that's daily before you ask)
some are using products that cost more than their car is worth
my main gripe against the site and why I got banned was that I objected to the fact that any idiot could buy the gear and set up a business calling himself a detailer
I suggested a registration system - got banned says it all
they changes waxes/sprays more often than I change my underwear (and that's daily before you ask)
some are using products that cost more than their car is worth
my main gripe against the site and why I got banned was that I objected to the fact that any idiot could buy the gear and set up a business calling himself a detailer
I suggested a registration system - got banned says it all
Edited by grand cherokee on Monday 1st July 12:56
Bignige57 said:
Scary really that so many out there arewilling to scam just to make a buck
its just a concern of mine that anyone can buy some gear and set up a business calling themselves a detailera portfolio is easy to arrange by either stealing photo's from other detailers or just searching the net
these people might not have insurance for accidents/damage - how many of you would ask to see insurance documents?
and damage is easily done - I've first hand experience of a 'detailer' causing paint 'burn' by using a rotary - Ok in the end the guy paid for a partial respray but it should not have happened if he was experienced - partially my fault for not checking out his skill levels?
I know a guy who works for a local car dealership dealing in 'high end cars' - Ferrari/Lambo/Aston/Range Rover etc - he refuses to call himself a detailer and insists he's a valeter
I've seen his work and its stunning - sadly he does not do 'private work'
he's been at it years -I watched him machine polish a red Ferrari - it was 'poetry in motion' - totally effortless and very fast in achieving a superb finish removing all swirls/holograms etc - and only needed two compounds and two 'mops'
Edited by grand cherokee on Tuesday 2nd July 11:11
grand cherokee said:
he's been at it years -I watched him machine polish a red Ferrari - it was 'poetry in motion' - totally effortless and very fast in achieving a superb finish removing all swirls/holograms etc - and only needed two compounds and two 'mops'
And that would maybe he is ONLY polishing very similar paint day to day.Edited by grand cherokee on Tuesday 2nd July 11:11
There is no way that ONLY 2 cutting compounds and 2 mops as you call it would be enough for the perfect job , but yet again i can absolutely garrantee his is not removing all the filling effect from the cutting compound to leave a "true" finish.
We use more than compound on most of our customer cars in for just standard work , then add that if we were to use 3 compounds this would mean we would be using at least 3 polishing pads of different grades.
On our higher end correction packages we use 3 different types of machines to achieve the finish needed , and i dont mean "different" as in different machine brand name . I do mean DA , force DA combined with rotary and then rotary, the same compound and pad on each of these machine will give differing results.
kelly
kds keltec said:
And that would maybe he is ONLY polishing very similar paint day to day.
There is no way that ONLY 2 cutting compounds and 2 mops as you call it would be enough for the perfect job , but yet again i can absolutely garrantee his is not removing all the filling effect from the cutting compound to leave a "true" finish.
We use more than compound on most of our customer cars in for just standard work , then add that if we were to use 3 compounds this would mean we would be using at least 3 polishing pads of different grades.
On our higher end correction packages we use 3 different types of machines to achieve the finish needed , and i dont mean "different" as in different machine brand name . I do mean DA , force DA combined with rotary and then rotary, the same compound and pad on each of these machine will give differing results.
kelly
you might be correctThere is no way that ONLY 2 cutting compounds and 2 mops as you call it would be enough for the perfect job , but yet again i can absolutely garrantee his is not removing all the filling effect from the cutting compound to leave a "true" finish.
We use more than compound on most of our customer cars in for just standard work , then add that if we were to use 3 compounds this would mean we would be using at least 3 polishing pads of different grades.
On our higher end correction packages we use 3 different types of machines to achieve the finish needed , and i dont mean "different" as in different machine brand name . I do mean DA , force DA combined with rotary and then rotary, the same compound and pad on each of these machine will give differing results.
kelly
but perhaps the most important FACT is that the cars look superb - and customers attest to that
truth be told 99% of 'normal' people could not/would not tell the difference between your finish and his- and at the end of the day that's what matters
joking aside your life must be pretty sad when you walk past the cars of 'us'?
grand cherokee said:
you might be correct
but perhaps the most important FACT is that the cars look superb - and customers attest to that
truth be told 99% of 'normal' people could not/would not tell the difference between your finish and his- and at the end of the day that's what matters
joking aside your life must be pretty sad when you walk past the cars of 'us'?
Bit strong really , but perhaps the most important FACT is that the cars look superb - and customers attest to that
truth be told 99% of 'normal' people could not/would not tell the difference between your finish and his- and at the end of the day that's what matters
joking aside your life must be pretty sad when you walk past the cars of 'us'?
i could say the same about you that your sad for complaining a Lot on forums ,
and even more so when i dont have OCD and i DONT look at cars outside of work and think "oh my god that dirty" "oh my god the paint is full of swirls" .
The fact i CAN completely switch off from my job when away from work (when i type i am at work doing my job)in my eyes make me better at what i do well. So thank you for judging me when you dont know me
And did you not complain about the quality or lack of it about a detailers in the past and even painters too ???
so even you can tell the difference with quality and in fact you sent me emails about a person poor workmanship in the past.
Your complaints were about the fact detailed cars dont last and your emails to me about how to proceed as the last detailer said it was your wash tech or poor wash tech that introduced the swirls.
where as i know they were masked heavily (unknowingly) from compounds , pre wax cleansers and waxes, and not fully corrected paint.
So i think its actually a very good FACT and even you have been victim too in the past,
so again i ask ,this guy with his 2 compounds and 2 mops would you be happy with his detailing in 6 months time when the fillers have burnt away in strong summer UV light ???
what this space for many you tube videos of many myth busting chapters
And i best remember to NOT help you in the future as i must of been VERY SAD to spend time FOC writing back to you with advice.
kelly
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