Ignition warning light
Discussion
When you say ignition warning light, presumably you mean the MiL light.
Causes are varied and many, hook it up to a laptop if you can and it will reveal all.
Most common is lambda sensors or throttle pots, but could also be things like coolant temp. Air pressure etc.
Software is available here
http://www.tvr-cerbera.co.uk/software.html
Causes are varied and many, hook it up to a laptop if you can and it will reveal all.
Most common is lambda sensors or throttle pots, but could also be things like coolant temp. Air pressure etc.
Software is available here
http://www.tvr-cerbera.co.uk/software.html
Edited by P S K on Saturday 29th June 19:52
2 sMoKiN bArReLs said:
P S K said:
When you say ignition warning light, presumably you mean the MiL light.
Why?
Don't Cerbs have both? Biggest cause in Chimaera is failure of big fuse (100a). Do Cerbs have these?
Good point. Could mean the battery warning lamp? Why?
Don't Cerbs have both? Biggest cause in Chimaera is failure of big fuse (100a). Do Cerbs have these?
Yes the Cerbera does have a 100 amp fuse, located down behind the coil packs.
It's either the fuse or the alternator.
Test procedure:
"Borrow" your multimeter back from your teenage son
Find your alternator.
Look for the thick lead coming out of the back of the alternator.
Position wife/son in drivers seat
With the engine off, check the voltage at the thick lead, using the 0-20 volts scale. Red lead on the thick lead metal terminal, black lead on the metal of the alternator,or any other handy earth
If it reads 12.3 volts, your 100 amp (big) fuse is fine.
If it reads 0, keep trying, but if it stays at 0 then the 100 amp fuse may be duff. In either case
Ask your assistant to start the engine.
if you now get around 14 volts at the same place, your alternator is fine. If it stays around 12 volts, your fuse is ok, but your alternator is suspect. If it stays at 0 volts, you are on the wrong bit of metal!
Test procedure:
"Borrow" your multimeter back from your teenage son
Find your alternator.
Look for the thick lead coming out of the back of the alternator.
Position wife/son in drivers seat
With the engine off, check the voltage at the thick lead, using the 0-20 volts scale. Red lead on the thick lead metal terminal, black lead on the metal of the alternator,or any other handy earth
If it reads 12.3 volts, your 100 amp (big) fuse is fine.
If it reads 0, keep trying, but if it stays at 0 then the 100 amp fuse may be duff. In either case
Ask your assistant to start the engine.
if you now get around 14 volts at the same place, your alternator is fine. If it stays around 12 volts, your fuse is ok, but your alternator is suspect. If it stays at 0 volts, you are on the wrong bit of metal!
QBee said:
That's a different fuse. Take that out and mst things stop. Take the 100 amp fuse out, all that happens is that the alternator doesn't supply power to the battery.
..aha. My big fuse in the footwell became loose, connectors got hot & set fire to the plastic cover. You are right..everything stopped!QBee said:
DAVEY DEE said:
Mine was indeed the big fuse.Changed and all is good.....apart from the mil light is back on again! lol
Disconnect and reconnect the ECU (with the keys out of the ignition) to reset the MIL light and see if it comes back on. If it does, go get the code read.
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