Starter - Click, Click,..... Start
Discussion
Help - I seem to have symptoms of the hot start problem, but the car is cold, I get a click on turning the key, It may take 10 times to get it to turn over and start. I fear its getting worse. Just come back from Le Mans, so could the heat be making it deteriorate? Any advice, and a solution would be good. Thanks in Advance
Thanks for that, but I have not been setting the imobiliser as the alarm goes off after 2 mins, its an early 94 car, if that helps. Or does it set automatically??
So if starter would it be a recondition job and replace? And if an imobilise how would I remove it, or bypass it?? The alarm/imobilser has been playing up for a few years now, so has not been used.
So if starter would it be a recondition job and replace? And if an imobilise how would I remove it, or bypass it?? The alarm/imobilser has been playing up for a few years now, so has not been used.
As mentioned, both the immobiliser and/or starter/solenoid could give those symptoms.
In my case it was the starter.. It has a bit of a hard life, being so close tot he manifolds. When i bought mine there was a receipt for a new starter 6 months earlier so I assumed immobilser but was wrong.. A new starter and solenoid (just as simple to replace them both as a unit) sorted it (£80)
In my case it was the starter.. It has a bit of a hard life, being so close tot he manifolds. When i bought mine there was a receipt for a new starter 6 months earlier so I assumed immobilser but was wrong.. A new starter and solenoid (just as simple to replace them both as a unit) sorted it (£80)
Oh BTW if the Click is quite loud and coming from the engine bay (as opposed to under the dash) then it's more likely to be the starter/solenoid..
A proper "CLANG" would indicate the solenoid is engaging but the starter isn't spinning...
Check your battery terminals too, loose ones sometimes give similar symptoms as they can't "push" the amps needed for the starter...
A proper "CLANG" would indicate the solenoid is engaging but the starter isn't spinning...
Check your battery terminals too, loose ones sometimes give similar symptoms as they can't "push" the amps needed for the starter...
The alarm is set by locking the car, well push key halfway down in the barral, twist and release. also activated the central locking. So no, there is nothing to touch. I can, could, just jump in. Turn the key and off i would go.
The click noise is similar to clicking a biro pen, for sound and volume.
I am thinking starter now from what has been said. I will this evening pop a 12 live to the starter, and see if I get a whizzzzzz out of it.
The click noise is similar to clicking a biro pen, for sound and volume.
I am thinking starter now from what has been said. I will this evening pop a 12 live to the starter, and see if I get a whizzzzzz out of it.
Jack the car and put it on axle stands. Remove the king lead from the coil. Take a jump lead and connect it to the live terminal of the battery and then to the live feed on the starter motor. You may have to hold it on, in which case get somebody to fire the car up. If it turns over, then you can rule out the starter. The problem will then likely lie with the immobiliser or between the live feed of the battery and the starter. If its the immobiliser, see my other post about Carl Baker visiting Taylor TVR.
OK, paint by numbers may help me here.
Can anyone post an image of where to put the jumper cable onto the starter?
I would assume that if this does spin the starter the imobiliser is at fault, if so I would need a sparky near Royston / Cambridge to get his clippers out and remove the offending offender, and put a reliable imobiliser back in.
Can anyone post an image of where to put the jumper cable onto the starter?
I would assume that if this does spin the starter the imobiliser is at fault, if so I would need a sparky near Royston / Cambridge to get his clippers out and remove the offending offender, and put a reliable imobiliser back in.
Jhonno said:
There is a slim red wire going to the solenoid.. This is the 12v supply you need to test.
Yep - that'll rule out the immobiliser..The jump lead (if you really want to do that) goes to the very heavy duty red cable bolted to the rear of the starter itself...
You probably know this but just in case, the starter solenoid is just a heavy duty relay, it is triggered by 12V that is sent fthrough the immobiliser relay to the thin red wire connected to the solenoid. The solenoid has 2 terminals on the rear that have heavy duty red wires connected to them, one goes to the battery positive terminal, the other to the starter motor itself.
You CAN just bridge them (use a VERY heavy duty wire to do that) and if it whirrs then you've tested the connection from the battery to the solenoid too..
Be perpared - it may well spark when you do that so don't bang your head on the car (DAMHIK)...
Mine was doing the same, solenoid!
Try http://www.londonessexautoelectrics.co.uk/Alternat...
Got a new high torque starter from them last year £90 approx, excellent.
Try http://www.londonessexautoelectrics.co.uk/Alternat...
Got a new high torque starter from them last year £90 approx, excellent.
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