This could have been a bit dangerous.....

[Rockettvr]

Hi all
On my way back from a very good sausage meet today I started to experience a bit of a handling issue on my way home. felt as if I was getting a bit of rear steer?? No problem I thought just a bush on its way out. Got home and the car up on stands found some play in the rear nearside wheel , a-ha thinks me rear wheel bearing but no it was potentially much worse. On further inspection I found this....
http://thumbsnap.com/tYbXcAn7
The drive shaft has been drilled twice to accept a split pin severely weakening the shaft and now its snapped . Fortunately the nut was still on the shaft by a few turns so it didn't come off completely !!! You can see the nut and rest of the shaft at the bottom left

So fellas I now need your help please,

1 I need either a complete drive shaft or the splined hub end piece to replace the snapped one including the correct nut
2 I need a source and part number for the rear bearing
3 any advice on replacing the bearing as its not something i'm familiar with.
Unfortunately it looks as if ill be going to the BBWF in the work van

Edited by Rockettvr on Saturday 6th July 14:59

Edited by Rockettvr on Saturday 6th July 15:00

Edited by Rockettvr on Saturday 6th July 15:02

[barrington]

you have mail

[Mr Tank]

Hi

I may have some drive shafts and new nuts. Can you send me the correct size of the shaft i.e. length and width you need replacing. Plus I have new bearings as well!

If you want them I can bring them to the fest!

Andy

[Rockettvr]

Thanks Andy
Didn't realise they came in different sizes. It's a standard 1987 350i if that helps. I'll take the old shaft off the car tomorrow and measure it up.
Thanks Ron

[hallsie]

Ron

Ive got 2 sets of drive shafts, one set off of a 390se which need new joints, and a set from a 350i.

If it gets you out of a hole you can borrow the 350i ones to get you to the BBWF, give me a call tomorrow.

Stu

[Mr Tank]

Ron

I will bring what shafts I have to the fest, also new rear wheel bearing, and new drive shaft nuts!

If you don't want or need them no problem as I will sell them or use them myself.

Andy

[Danny Hoffman]

Rockettvr said:

3 any advice on replacing the bearing as its not something i'm familiar with.

You can change the bearing without removing the trailing arm (not sure about A frame) using a tool like this

http://arnnworx.com/BearingTool1.htm

I did mine with one, applied a little heat to the trailing arm housing to expand it a touch to make removal easier.

I also left the new bearing in the freezer over night, applied a bit of heat to the housing again and it slipped in easily................

[mrzigazaga]

Jeeze Ron..You are not having much luck mate what with that and the bumper yesterday...I have uploaded the vids to youtube but the one of yours makes me cringe when i hear that loud pop of the bumper, I will post them up once they have finished uploading ..Hope you get it all sorted for the fest..Ziga

[grahamw48]

Yep, been there, done that...except the wheel parted company at 90mph. (400SE).

I had the whole back end suspenders and driveshafts re-built/replaced both sides on the insurance though, and they didn't increase my premium the following year. (Cost me my £400 excess).

[Rockettvr]

Hi Andy Tank
Ill try and get you some measurements for the driveshafts in the next day or so . As mentioned they are - as far as i'm aware std 350i shafts. Can you let me know what sort of condition the ones you've got are in please.Its not too much of an issue if they're shot as i only really need the end of the shaft - the splined bit-to replace my broken bit as my shafts seem to be in pretty goood nick. Also how much you want for them and the bearings and nuts so i can bring the required cash with me to BBWF next week.
Cheers Ron

[Mr Tank]

Hi Ron

Just got back from a good day with the cars!

I will check the drive shafts as soon as I can, but it proberly be Wed before I can.

Ref how much money to bring, best to rob a bank!

To be honest not a lot as the shafts came from Dave (Barrington) for not to many beer tokens so I will pass that on!

Andy

[adam quantrill]

I've just had a thought about this issue.

The technical problem is that the hub nut's nyloc cannot be relied on 100%, even when brand new nuts are used, and over time if the nut moves then vibration etc will eventually allow the nut to undo. Usually there isn't much warning but you could paint a line and check them every week I suppose....

Instead of drilling the driveshaft at all my idea is to drill one hole through the side of the nut (like you're about to split pin it but only go though one side) then tap the hole - M4 should be adequate.

Then fit the nut as usual and put an M4 screw into the tapped hole - you might want to sharpen the screw end to a point, too. Do it up tight (maybe with a little loktite) and it'll clamp onto the driveshaft giving extra piece of mind.

[TA14]

adam quantrill said:

Instead of drilling the driveshaft at all my idea is to drill one hole through the side of the nut (like you're about to split pin it but only go though one side) then tap the hole - M4 should be adequate.

Instead of drilling anything why don't people just assemble the parts as per original? Safe and strong.

[Wedg1e]

I see your thinking but you risk getting into a vicious circle where the M4 screw damages the driveshaft thread, which in turn damages the thread of any nut you screw on there... IMHO it's likely that the reason for most incidents of nuts unscrewing is (a) reusing an old Nyloc and (b) incorrect torque application on fitting. You could probably also throw in oily threads, dirt under the large washer and poor manufacturing tolerances of the nuts themselves as well.

[PHJayV8]

Scarey stuff.... guys is this a common wedge issue, or quite a rare "one off"?

[TA14]

Wedg1e said:

I see your thinking but you risk getting into a vicious circle where the M4 screw damages the driveshaft thread, which in turn damages the thread of any nut you screw on there... IMHO it's likely that the reason for most incidents of nuts unscrewing is (a) reusing an old Nyloc and (b) incorrect torque application on fitting. You could probably also throw in oily threads, dirt under the large washer and poor manufacturing tolerances of the nuts themselves as well.

but mainly (c) as I stated above.

[TA14]

PHJayV8 said:

Scarey stuff.... guys is this a common wedge issue, or quite a rare "one off"?

Crops up on the forum every couple of years. I wonder how some people would get on with a car which has over a hundred split pins; would they be drilling all day?

[V8 Fettler]

PHJayV8 said:

Scarey stuff.... guys is this a common wedge issue, or quite a rare "one off"?

Known issue over the years. Engineered solution is to use a thread handed to ensure that the nut tightens in normal use. Flying pigs. Drilling creates stress points, correct torque and correct threadlock is probably the answer.

[mrzigazaga]

V8 Fettler said:

Drilling creates stress points, correct torque and correct threadlock is probably the answer.

Agree...I think also depending on the amount of time you use your wedge a periodical check of the nut with a correct torque setting is advisable..Its a dam sight easier taking a wheel off and checking a nut then it coming off at its own convenience..Even something simple like a marker line or a scribe across the nut and on the hub once its been torqued will indicate any movement..Cheers...Ziga

[PHJayV8]

Blimey.... it'll be the first thing I check when looking at a wedge to buy thanks guys