Dry Sumps and oil coolers
Discussion
Hi Ian,
on my old car my oil rad was sited engine side of teh water rad, i was also worried about oil temp being too low, i looked into plumbing in a thermostat which would bypass the rad until it was needed. in the event i was able due to the position to just use a temp blanking plate ( which i know you cant do )...maybe instead of stripping it out a bit of a replumb would work, would atleast give you the option if you do find the temps creep up.....
on my old car my oil rad was sited engine side of teh water rad, i was also worried about oil temp being too low, i looked into plumbing in a thermostat which would bypass the rad until it was needed. in the event i was able due to the position to just use a temp blanking plate ( which i know you cant do )...maybe instead of stripping it out a bit of a replumb would work, would atleast give you the option if you do find the temps creep up.....
Ian - when we discussed this, did we talk about where in the circuit your Temp readings are being taken? Although 68 is too low, what needs to be taken into account is where in the system the oil is this cool. I would guess the ideal place for a true reading of oil operating Temp would be just before the cooler?
Thanks for the replies peeps. To answer some of the questions. ...
Temp is taken from an adapter in a sandwich plate by the filter. Have tried a stat but it didnt seem to make a difference and made the plumbing a bit of a mess!
Oil tank is over size. Busa oil capacity is just over 3 litres as standard, I'm running about 6 to 6.5.
My thinking is that because the oil is not boiling away like a deep fat fryer at the bottom of the engine, is a cooler required at all?
Temp is taken from an adapter in a sandwich plate by the filter. Have tried a stat but it didnt seem to make a difference and made the plumbing a bit of a mess!
Oil tank is over size. Busa oil capacity is just over 3 litres as standard, I'm running about 6 to 6.5.
My thinking is that because the oil is not boiling away like a deep fat fryer at the bottom of the engine, is a cooler required at all?
Disconnect the hoses from the Cooler and stick a joiner in. See what happens. You may find enough 'cooling' just from the volume and routing to/from the Tank is enough. It maybe worth checking with the 'Oil Man' (sorry, I forget his name) but I thought 120-130 deg C is where you should be.
I run a dry sump without an oil cooler. The kit did come with one (knackered though), but I didnt intend to use it anyway.
I reckoned that with a larger oil reserve, length of pipes & the tank sitting in the cold it wasnt needed. Also I never had overheating issues with the car beforehand. Now there is an oil temp gauge & this reads low, getting worried that the oil may still be to cold.
To qualify my usage, it is mainly Sprints/Hillclimbs & short track days. My use on the road is minimal with lowish revs (up to 4/5K).
I reckoned that with a larger oil reserve, length of pipes & the tank sitting in the cold it wasnt needed. Also I never had overheating issues with the car beforehand. Now there is an oil temp gauge & this reads low, getting worried that the oil may still be to cold.
To qualify my usage, it is mainly Sprints/Hillclimbs & short track days. My use on the road is minimal with lowish revs (up to 4/5K).
Thanks for the replies peeps. To answer some of the questions. ...
Temp is taken from an adapter in a sandwich plate by the filter. Have tried a stat but it didnt seem to make a difference and made the plumbing a bit of a mess!
Oil tank is over size. Busa oil capacity is just over 3 litres as standard, I'm running about 6 to 6.5.
My thinking is that because the oil is not boiling away like a deep fat fryer at the bottom of the engine, is a cooler required at all?
Temp is taken from an adapter in a sandwich plate by the filter. Have tried a stat but it didnt seem to make a difference and made the plumbing a bit of a mess!
Oil tank is over size. Busa oil capacity is just over 3 litres as standard, I'm running about 6 to 6.5.
My thinking is that because the oil is not boiling away like a deep fat fryer at the bottom of the engine, is a cooler required at all?
Cheers Paul
Just add, (because I forgot before!), I have tried an oil stat and this really didnt seem to work well at all, so I removed it. Why this was the case I'm not sure, pretty convinced it was plumbed in correctly, although I know that it's easy to get it wrong!
Just add, (because I forgot before!), I have tried an oil stat and this really didnt seem to work well at all, so I removed it. Why this was the case I'm not sure, pretty convinced it was plumbed in correctly, although I know that it's easy to get it wrong!
Edited by iiyama on Tuesday 9th July 16:14
Promised to update so here it is!
Have removed the cooler completely and have gone for a blat this avo. Did around 40 miles of sat in traffic; 30 MPH zones NSL zones and everything in between. Oil temp now gets up to and stays at 88. Much better then the 60-65 I was seeing before but it was rather hot. Ambient temps must be in the high 20's. So it seems to be going in the right direction but not sure its where it should be. Will live with it for a while and see what happens. Plus side is Ive lost around 1-1.5 Kg's from the car!!
Have removed the cooler completely and have gone for a blat this avo. Did around 40 miles of sat in traffic; 30 MPH zones NSL zones and everything in between. Oil temp now gets up to and stays at 88. Much better then the 60-65 I was seeing before but it was rather hot. Ambient temps must be in the high 20's. So it seems to be going in the right direction but not sure its where it should be. Will live with it for a while and see what happens. Plus side is Ive lost around 1-1.5 Kg's from the car!!
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