New Cam, Old Question?
Discussion
Hi guys, having had my Chim 400 for 6 years next month I decided to treat her to having the Lloyd Developments/Canems engine management system fitted.
I casually asked about the funny noise that sounded a bit "cammy". They looked into it and my cam is flapping forwards my about 3mm and hitting the inside of the front timing cover! The worst lobe has 9.2mm lift, rather than 10.8mm of lift at the valve so it makes sense to have a new cam fitted but which one?
Apparently the EMS makes the car quite drivable so could have a slightly wilder cam but this is my everyday car so need an element of economy and drivability. I am not planning on doing anything else to make the car faster like big valve heads or supercharging so will be working with the standard car apart from it is fully decatted thanks to Clive.
What do you guys suggest?
Cheers, Robin
I casually asked about the funny noise that sounded a bit "cammy". They looked into it and my cam is flapping forwards my about 3mm and hitting the inside of the front timing cover! The worst lobe has 9.2mm lift, rather than 10.8mm of lift at the valve so it makes sense to have a new cam fitted but which one?
Apparently the EMS makes the car quite drivable so could have a slightly wilder cam but this is my everyday car so need an element of economy and drivability. I am not planning on doing anything else to make the car faster like big valve heads or supercharging so will be working with the standard car apart from it is fully decatted thanks to Clive.
What do you guys suggest?
Cheers, Robin
All HC cars should have valve reliefs cut in the piston crowns.
This was to accommodate the extra lift provided by the TVR Kent 435 profile cam also used in the 5.0 litre cars.
I say should, because you would still do well to put a camera down a plug hole to check.
Sounds like you need the cam retaining plate too, mine never had one but Rob Robertson sorted that out when he fitted my Stealth cam.
This was to accommodate the extra lift provided by the TVR Kent 435 profile cam also used in the 5.0 litre cars.
I say should, because you would still do well to put a camera down a plug hole to check.
Sounds like you need the cam retaining plate too, mine never had one but Rob Robertson sorted that out when he fitted my Stealth cam.
TVRobin said:
Lloyd developments have recommended the Kent H218. Do you think the Stealth is much better?
Sorry, you need advice from someone who has a clue.....there'll be one along in a minute. I asked for a fast road/track day car that was driveable and revved smoothly, and I was supplied with a stealth cam, ported inlet manifold, lightened flywheel, 5 litre cross bolted and internally balanced engine, and a lighter wallet.
PS, one tip - if you find the throttle pedal heavy, try removing one of the two throttle return springs.....you will be amazed what a difference that makes. Just store the spare one in the door pocket.
carsy said:
I would think the kent 218 would have a bit more low down. Where as the Stealth will be stronger higher up the rev range. Depends how you want your car to drive.
My stealth cam gives over 300 lb ft of torque from a 5 litre between 2000 and 5250 rpm. Peak about 4100. That gives you huge grunt right across the rev range. Peak bhp was at 5600 I think. But it's the long flat torque curve that makes the car so drivable.Edited by QBee on Thursday 11th July 08:07
QBee said:
My stealth can gives over 300 left of torque from a 5 litre between 2000 and 5250 rpm. Peak about 4100. That gives you huge grunt right across the rev range. Peak bhp was at 5600 I think. But it's the long flat torque curve that makes the car so drivable.
I want a Stealth but the Kent Cam has already been ordered. Have sent an email.
Sardonicus said:
GasMunkey said:
Girls cams!
Come on its a 1 ton car, think larger
This man knows what he's talking about Come on its a 1 ton car, think larger
we want power bands not nice linear delivery. GasMunkey's sole goal in life is to get under 10 seconds at the Pod, so he wants all his peak power delivery and peak torque between 5000 and 8000 rpm, so he can rev the nuts off it and get that fast time, if he still has a clutch left.
I drive automatics the rest of the time, so my requirement is for a car that forgives me when I hoof it in totally the wrong gear, and doesn't just embarrass me. So mine has a very wide torque range for pulling power from low revs, with the peak BHP right at the top of that range, so i can use the grunt to get me up the rev range, and use the power when it appears. The additional benefit to me is that on track days I don't have to go all the way down to second or first gear for tight bends (with the additional risk of locking up the rear axle and going arse about face when I make the last change down too late). Instead I can concentrate on braking and cornering lines, knowing that third gear and the massive low down grunt will get me out of the corner with some dignity intact.
I have just compared the Kent cam graph above with the one for my car with the stealth cam, and I would be hard pressed to tell them apart, so stop worrying! If you wanted a torquey, fun driving fast road car, you are getting it.
Edited by QBee on Thursday 11th July 08:27
QBee said:
Nail on head job - YOU need to decide what you want your to do with your car, and then discuss it with someone who has a clue what they are doing cam-wise.
GasMunkey's sole goal in life is to get under 10 seconds at the Pod, so he wants all his peak power delivery and peak torque between 5000 and 8000 rpm, so he can rev the nuts off it and get that fast time, if he still has a clutch left.
I drive automatics the rest of the time, so my requirement is for a car that forgives me when I hoof it in totally the wrong gear, and doesn't just embarrass me. So mine has a very wide torque range for pulling power from low revs, with the peak BHP right at the top of that range, so i can use the grunt to get me up the rev range, and use the power when it appears. The additional benefit to me is that on track days I don't have to go all the way down to second or first gear for tight bends (with the additional risk of locking up the rear axle and going arse about face when I make the last change down too late). Instead I can concentrate on braking and cornering lines, knowing that third gear and the massive low down grunt will get me out of the corner with some dignity intact.
I have just compared the Kent cam graph above with the one for my car with the stealth cam, and I would be hard pressed to tell them apart, so stop worrying! If you wanted a torquey, fun driving fast road car, you are getting it.
QBee, you have summarised this perfectly. You appear to have exactly what I want too. I love driving fast but I would like to hear the radio rather than the rockers pleading for mercy! GasMunkey's sole goal in life is to get under 10 seconds at the Pod, so he wants all his peak power delivery and peak torque between 5000 and 8000 rpm, so he can rev the nuts off it and get that fast time, if he still has a clutch left.
I drive automatics the rest of the time, so my requirement is for a car that forgives me when I hoof it in totally the wrong gear, and doesn't just embarrass me. So mine has a very wide torque range for pulling power from low revs, with the peak BHP right at the top of that range, so i can use the grunt to get me up the rev range, and use the power when it appears. The additional benefit to me is that on track days I don't have to go all the way down to second or first gear for tight bends (with the additional risk of locking up the rear axle and going arse about face when I make the last change down too late). Instead I can concentrate on braking and cornering lines, knowing that third gear and the massive low down grunt will get me out of the corner with some dignity intact.
I have just compared the Kent cam graph above with the one for my car with the stealth cam, and I would be hard pressed to tell them apart, so stop worrying! If you wanted a torquey, fun driving fast road car, you are getting it.
Edited by QBee on Thursday 11th July 08:27
The fair comment I got about the Stealth is: "The Stealth camshaft has a good reputation but the supplier will not give you camshaft specs (e.g.: lift, duration, LCA, etc) so it is a little difficult to comment on the suitability of this camshaft for your engine."
I am sure anything will be better than current and will shut up and go with what has been recommended!
B-Reight said:
TVRobin said:
The fair comment I got about the Stealth is: "The Stealth camshaft has a good reputation but the supplier will not give you camshaft specs (e.g.: lift, duration, LCA, etc) so it is a little difficult to comment on the suitability of this camshaft for your engine."
I've got it down as .486"/.486" lift 218/218 dur @ .050" and 114 LSAGassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff