280i Water Temperature Sender Details
Discussion
I am looking for some help with the water temperature senders on my 1986 US Mk II 280i.
Car is a running project that I seek to improve from time-to-time.
My current focus is to get a reliable water temperature displayed on my VDO dash gauge.
I suspect the issue is the sender as I have tested the gauge out of the car and it seems to be OK, and there are two wires with terminals in the water temperature sender area that have not been connected to anything since I have owned the car.
On the attached picture should there be a sender of some sort in the hole marked “A” (it has simply been plugged with a bolt since I have owned the car), what is the sender marked “B”, and what are part numbers etc. for replacement parts?
Thanks
Joe
Car is a running project that I seek to improve from time-to-time.
My current focus is to get a reliable water temperature displayed on my VDO dash gauge.
I suspect the issue is the sender as I have tested the gauge out of the car and it seems to be OK, and there are two wires with terminals in the water temperature sender area that have not been connected to anything since I have owned the car.
On the attached picture should there be a sender of some sort in the hole marked “A” (it has simply been plugged with a bolt since I have owned the car), what is the sender marked “B”, and what are part numbers etc. for replacement parts?
Thanks
Joe
Hi mate.."A" in your picture is the temperature sender for the gauge and this must be matched with whatever type of gauge you have...i:e..Stewart warner..However i found this to be a bit of a hard to get part and still havent found the correct one for mine.."B" in your picture is the thermotime switch and these are really hard to find, Even second hand..They very rarely come up for sale and they stopped making them about 15 years ago..I will see if i have my old one..It was working as far as i know...Cheers...Ziga
RCK974X said:
I have to argue with Zig (a bit..).
"No you dont"...
...You are right mate..Im just not paying attention lately!..I can see the thermotime switch now you have pointed it out..So yes it must be some sort of secondary sender..I will have a look in the bible to see if anything is mention in there...Cheers...ZigaGuys,
Thanks for the quick feedback.
My gauges are all VDO, just one of those US quirks I guess. Should be easy to get hold of a VDO sender, we'll see.
On closer inspection it seemed like there were remains of something broken in the temperature sensor hole ("A"), so a bit more work than I anticipated. Easiest sure route looked to be pulling the hosing and attacking the problem on my bench. Started this process tonight. The housing is off. Quick clean confirmed sensor remains suck in the hole. The housing is now soaking for a hour or so in a dilute pinesol solution as a further degrease/clean step. Once it is cleaner I will see what I need to do remove the debris, clean up threads etc. I will post an update in due course.
Also, I'll dig out my wiring diagram to see if I can determine what sensor "B" might control, but if anyone knows please share.
Joe
Thanks for the quick feedback.
My gauges are all VDO, just one of those US quirks I guess. Should be easy to get hold of a VDO sender, we'll see.
On closer inspection it seemed like there were remains of something broken in the temperature sensor hole ("A"), so a bit more work than I anticipated. Easiest sure route looked to be pulling the hosing and attacking the problem on my bench. Started this process tonight. The housing is off. Quick clean confirmed sensor remains suck in the hole. The housing is now soaking for a hour or so in a dilute pinesol solution as a further degrease/clean step. Once it is cleaner I will see what I need to do remove the debris, clean up threads etc. I will post an update in due course.
Also, I'll dig out my wiring diagram to see if I can determine what sensor "B" might control, but if anyone knows please share.
Joe
Spec on VDO gauges gives an operating voltage range of 10 to 16v. I have ordered a sender that is spec'd for a 1976 2.8V6 Mercury Capri. WAG at this point, but for $12 delivered via Amazon worth the punt. Can confirm that the stock "Water Outlet Gasket" replacement listed for this car is spot on (in my case Fel-Pro old no. 35148 or new no. 10-1135).
I can see that the sender thread will need chasing. I can check the thread on the new sender to get type/pitch etc. Before I do anything that might be irreversible, I will rig up a test with the new sender wired into the gauge and then plunge it into some hot/boiling water to see what result I get.
I let y'all know the outcome.
Joe
I can see that the sender thread will need chasing. I can check the thread on the new sender to get type/pitch etc. Before I do anything that might be irreversible, I will rig up a test with the new sender wired into the gauge and then plunge it into some hot/boiling water to see what result I get.
I let y'all know the outcome.
Joe
Edited by nearlymoonlit on Saturday 13th July 02:15
Set up test today with the new sender by wiring the gauge to its top connection and a crocodile clip wired to a earth/ground return attached to its body. Turned the ignition key to energize the circuit and the gauged register low/ambient. When I immersed the sender body in a cup of boiling water the gauge registered approx. 100°C/212°F. Perfect. Went ahead and reassembled everything went for a 50 miles round trip - hot 90°F day - with everything working just as it should.
On a related note, the sender is referenced as having a 1/8-27 NPT thread. NPT threads are tapered, and this was clearly the case with the new sender. However a M10.1.0 tap seemed to be an ideal fit for chasing out the parallel thread in the housing water outlet housing. Not sure how the math/engineering theory works out, but the practice did for me.
On a related note, the sender is referenced as having a 1/8-27 NPT thread. NPT threads are tapered, and this was clearly the case with the new sender. However a M10.1.0 tap seemed to be an ideal fit for chasing out the parallel thread in the housing water outlet housing. Not sure how the math/engineering theory works out, but the practice did for me.
Great that you sorted it...Im still trying to find the correct sensor for mine after three years!..I have Stewart warner gauges and have tried various temperature senders but they all read from cold = Normal..Normal = V.Hot and not Cold = 0..Hot = Normal...Normal shows as 210-220 on the gauge..How would i find out the correct one?...Cheers...Ziga
mrzigazaga said:
Great that you sorted it...Im still trying to find the correct sensor for mine after three years!..I have Stewart warner gauges and have tried various temperature senders but they all read from cold = Normal..Normal = V.Hot and not Cold = 0..Hot = Normal...Normal shows as 210-220 on the gauge..How would i find out the correct one?...Cheers...Ziga
Might be stating the obvious, but Stewart Warner part no. 280EA is a water temperature sender kit. Price is between $20 and $30 depending whee you look. As stock it has the "right" thread, so the adapters in the kit are not needed. This would have been my next step if the stock "Mercury Capri" item did not work. I think the Stewart Warner gauges have a "low" regulated voltage. If so, maybe the regulator is faulty? I recall having a regulator problem in a 1970's Triumph Spitfire. I think it made the fuel gauge give odd readings, but this was 30 years ago! All the best. Joe
..(Early days of trying everything)..I will order one and see if it makes a difference...Cheers...ZigaGassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff