TOW HOOK U.S. GROUP BUY
Discussion
Hello Mates,
Mr. Garlick has approved this post.
There has been talk on the US forum about needing different tow hooks that are thicker than the factory ones.
We are getting together a group buy to get some made and lower the cost.
They are $100 + color charge + shipping for a front/back set.
Here's how the colors work:
Color choices are Black, Blue, Bronze, Clear, Gold, Green, Gray, Orange, Pewter, Red, Turquoise, Violet, Yellow.
Each color has a separate $100 set up fee and can be anodized.
So, if you're the only person wanting a certain color, you pay the $100 fee + hook set (front and rear) $100 + shipping.
If there are 2 people wanting the same color, they split the fee, so it will be $50 fee + hook set (front and rear) $100 + shipping.
If 10 people agree on the same color, they all split the fee, so it will be $10 fee + hook set set (front and rear) $100 + shipping.
These tow hooks will be made from 3/8" 6061 T6 aluminum.
Cross section and ring area will be 50% thicker than factory.
![](http://thumbsnap.com/t/P26PuN38.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/qSb4ijGq" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/t/qSb4ijGq.jpg)
Mr. Garlick has approved this post.
There has been talk on the US forum about needing different tow hooks that are thicker than the factory ones.
We are getting together a group buy to get some made and lower the cost.
They are $100 + color charge + shipping for a front/back set.
Here's how the colors work:
Color choices are Black, Blue, Bronze, Clear, Gold, Green, Gray, Orange, Pewter, Red, Turquoise, Violet, Yellow.
Each color has a separate $100 set up fee and can be anodized.
So, if you're the only person wanting a certain color, you pay the $100 fee + hook set (front and rear) $100 + shipping.
If there are 2 people wanting the same color, they split the fee, so it will be $50 fee + hook set (front and rear) $100 + shipping.
If 10 people agree on the same color, they all split the fee, so it will be $10 fee + hook set set (front and rear) $100 + shipping.
These tow hooks will be made from 3/8" 6061 T6 aluminum.
Cross section and ring area will be 50% thicker than factory.
Edited by 280 on Friday 12th July 15:29
This tow hook is fundermentaly floored, It doesn't matter what it is made out of, if it is vertical it will fail if pulled sideways out of the kitty litter, it needs to be horizontal to work effectively,.
If you want a bit of bling fine, if you want something that works don't waste your money.
Anyway, looking at the price their not exactly cheap for what they are,
If you want a bit of bling fine, if you want something that works don't waste your money.
Anyway, looking at the price their not exactly cheap for what they are,
Edited by Adrian W on Friday 12th July 15:53
Adrian W said:
This tow hook is fundermentaly floored, It doesn't matter what it is made out of, if it is vertical it will fail if pulled sideways out of the kitty litter, it needs to be horizontal to work effectively,.
If you want a bit of bling fine, if you want something that works don't waste your money.
Anyway, looking at the price their not exactly cheap for what they are,
Solidworks design software predicts that the bracket will withstand somewhere in the neighborhood of 13,000 lbs of force when made from 6061 T6, which is what the machine shop is using. It may bend if pulled on at a severe angle, but I think hooks should be treated like harnesses – replace them if you crash.If you want a bit of bling fine, if you want something that works don't waste your money.
Anyway, looking at the price their not exactly cheap for what they are,
Edited by Adrian W on Friday 12th July 15:53
My reason for wanting the hooks is not to be towed out of the kitty litter at the track, it’s to be winched onto the flatbed the next time my fuel pump (or whatever) dies. If I was building a dedicated race car, I would design a horizontal ring that is optimized for strength and has no need to look nice. But I have a street car that I want to look nice, so the hooks are not for bling, they are for the flatbed, and I don’t want them to be more noticeable than the factory parts.
Adrian W said:
I'll check I have solidworks 2010 at the office, is that 13000 per foot or per inch?
As I said in my opinion it's a bad idea.
Surely neither - it's a tensile force not a moment? Anyway - if you're going to receive a straight pull up the ramp of a recovery truck, then vertical is the correct orientation. They look OK to me, and hopefully less susceptible to pulling oval.As I said in my opinion it's a bad idea.
anotherdom said:
Surely neither - it's a tensile force not a moment? Anyway - if you're going to receive a straight pull up the ramp of a recovery truck, then vertical is the correct orientation. They look OK to me, and hopefully less susceptible to pulling oval.
How do you work that out, unless it virtically up to the top deck of a car transporter, It's a bad idea, and he is charging a fortune for what they are, go to a sheet metal shop and get a quote, some one on here got some stainless ones made, I can't remember who it was.
Adrian W said:
How do you work that out, unless it virtically up to the top deck of a car transporter,
If the surface of the car transporter is above the road surface there will be an additional component due to gravity - i am assuming the car is on its wheels (or for that matter roof)! Probably reasonable to assume that gravity will act normally to the local surface, and will be roughly equivalent at either deck? We use stressers to do the maths in aircraft design - I only get involved when the careless pilots catch bullets in primary structure.Worty had the stainless ones made, and I've got a set fitted.
OP - Good luck with the group buy!
I re-inforced mine with a bit of B&Q angle iron, agreed it might bend if pulled at a severe angle but that may be no bad thing.
It's not just about strengthening the tow hook, it's how the force transfers into the chassis. If you just make the tow-hook stronger and then get a major load on it, instead of the tow-hook breaking, it could well tear the mount away from the chassis or worse. It could be argued that it is better to have a weaker tow hook and preserve the chassis.
It's not just about strengthening the tow hook, it's how the force transfers into the chassis. If you just make the tow-hook stronger and then get a major load on it, instead of the tow-hook breaking, it could well tear the mount away from the chassis or worse. It could be argued that it is better to have a weaker tow hook and preserve the chassis.
Edited by dave sutton on Saturday 13th July 17:58
AMG Merc said:
If you agree its a "one-use" item then why bother to change the original?
Half again thicker material, and beefier section through the ring. I think they will strong enough in aluminum, and quite light. The last stainless rings I saw on the US forum weighed about a pound each. If I can have sufficient strength, and less weight, for the same money, why would I not choose aluminum?Edited by 280 on Friday 19th July 08:05
anotherdom said:
Adrian W said:
How do you work that out, unless it virtically up to the top deck of a car transporter,
If the surface of the car transporter is above the road surface there will be an additional component due to gravity - i am assuming the car is on its wheels (or for that matter roof)! Probably reasonable to assume that gravity will act normally to the local surface, and will be roughly equivalent at either deck? We use stressers to do the maths in aircraft design - I only get involved when the careless pilots catch bullets in primary structure.Worty had the stainless ones made, and I've got a set fitted.
OP - Good luck with the group buy!
Some of the US Noble owners had some hooks made in stainless steel in the same thickness, and with similar SS fastners. The hook will not bend, but will let go before damaging the chassis.
I've been thinking about another design (slow day!) which takes both lateral and horizontal loads - so won't bend in either plane or put as mich force through the chassis.
What about the same basic blade design but with a swivel ball-joint at the bolt end. So it moves to whichever position the cable is pulling from?
What about the same basic blade design but with a swivel ball-joint at the bolt end. So it moves to whichever position the cable is pulling from?
AMG Merc said:
I've been thinking about another design (slow day!) which takes both lateral and horizontal loads - so won't bend in either plane or put as mich force through the chassis.
What about the same basic blade design but with a swivel ball-joint at the bolt end. So it moves to whichever position the cable is pulling from?
Adding a swivel ball-joint at the bolt end will be the weak point and cause the tow hook to fail.What about the same basic blade design but with a swivel ball-joint at the bolt end. So it moves to whichever position the cable is pulling from?
AMG Merc said:
I've been thinking about another design (slow day!) which takes both lateral and horizontal loads - so won't bend in either plane or put as mich force through the chassis.
What about the same basic blade design but with a swivel ball-joint at the bolt end. So it moves to whichever position the cable is pulling from?
obviosly not quite the same but along these lines? What about the same basic blade design but with a swivel ball-joint at the bolt end. So it moves to whichever position the cable is pulling from?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Car-Trailer-Hook-Eye...
Steve57 said:
obviosly not quite the same but along these lines?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Car-Trailer-Hook-Eye...
£8.00 delivered, I don't know if its made out of chocolate or how they do it, but that's brillianthttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Car-Trailer-Hook-Eye...
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