my M makes the brum..brum sound again
Discussion
Just to share my happiness of driving the first 200 yards in 9 months
1´th oct 2012
and 13'th july 2013... frame modified, new engine/driveline, suspension, brakes, exhaust, manifold, LHD conversion, servo etc.etc
Getting the VEMS ecu config right was a bit of pain, but now it starts. Still a bit of work left, but a major milestone is passed.
br Mads
1´th oct 2012
and 13'th july 2013... frame modified, new engine/driveline, suspension, brakes, exhaust, manifold, LHD conversion, servo etc.etc
Getting the VEMS ecu config right was a bit of pain, but now it starts. Still a bit of work left, but a major milestone is passed.
br Mads
griff 200 said:
It's always good when you put it back together after all the mods and it still fits. Good luck with all the setting up etc. with all the suspenshion changes the brakes will be better but does it Handle better?? Or is it to soon to know. Richard
Hi Richard, Hopefully I'll soon be able to test the handling. Frame is braced a number of places, moden adjustable shocks from protech, rear adjustable Arb, and new front arb as well. Attention to details have been put into the geometry design, rear close to std, but front modified a lot, eliminating bump steer, getting the roll center correct, reducing scrub radius and adding 5 deg kingpin and 3 deg caster..... but real life test will show if it have to be cut open again. One thing is on my mind, either to swap to 7½" rims front or increase the ET with 15-20mm. Currently is track equal front and rear, but body width is aprox 2" more on the rear fenders, so when the rear's match the std body, are the fronts sticking 1" out. But that's to be desided after test driving.
And thanks for the cheering, manifolds just hit the bonnet, so I have ordred some new flanges to make a slight "knee" on then to make the front point 10deg downward, this will allso ease the airfilter construction, to make everything fit under the original bonnet.
And talking of manifold...
/mads
Edited by madsvlund on Sunday 14th July 12:59
Yeah, and i have a rotrex supercharger in stock if that air need a kick in the butt to get in the engine quickly enough :-)
... and selling this conversion, ouch I wont even think of counting the hours spend, but money wize is not that bad. All in all with complete resturation of the frame sandblasted and powder coated, 50.000 miles engine and gearbox, M3 LSD, new brakes, New shocks, new electrics, new instruments (with gps speedo), ecu, servo rack, LHD conversion, radiator, new fan's, new prop and drive shafts, new exhaust, 12 rim's and tyres, and all the small bits and pieces ,minus the sale of the essex engine and the old exhaust....
Money spend 60.000 dkr ~7000£, engine and gearbox was 820£ so watch out for you budgets :-)
Don't tell my wife... but planned for next winter is to mount the supercharger, lightweight flywheel, upgraded clutch, arch the front and rear wheels, making space for 265 tyres rear, and to cover the fronts legally, respray the car and redo the cabin with new seats carpets etc.... but she will see me in 2015 or 16 :-)
... and selling this conversion, ouch I wont even think of counting the hours spend, but money wize is not that bad. All in all with complete resturation of the frame sandblasted and powder coated, 50.000 miles engine and gearbox, M3 LSD, new brakes, New shocks, new electrics, new instruments (with gps speedo), ecu, servo rack, LHD conversion, radiator, new fan's, new prop and drive shafts, new exhaust, 12 rim's and tyres, and all the small bits and pieces ,minus the sale of the essex engine and the old exhaust....
Money spend 60.000 dkr ~7000£, engine and gearbox was 820£ so watch out for you budgets :-)
Don't tell my wife... but planned for next winter is to mount the supercharger, lightweight flywheel, upgraded clutch, arch the front and rear wheels, making space for 265 tyres rear, and to cover the fronts legally, respray the car and redo the cabin with new seats carpets etc.... but she will see me in 2015 or 16 :-)
What sort of power are you hoping for ? 250hp with luck or more with cams. Does the engine have double cam timming ? The 3 l cosworth I put in my s made 240 with a crap exhaust manifold and standerd inlet. But my 3.2 will take some beating as a standerd engine! (Well it is German after all )
In the Jag S setup do the engine produce 240hp, and the few guys that have used them for racing is quoting 270 hp after decat, jenvey bodies and a racing exhaust.
With pipercams are 290-300 possible, and we're probaly at the edge without more serious engine tuning (higher revs)
My route is to get the 250'ish with the 6-2-1-2 exhaust and the new intake (I'll post the flow figures from borth the original plenum and my own after they get measured).
If I'm going higher will it be with a rotrex or lysholm supercharger, lowering the compression a bit, stock cams and 0,7-0,9 bar pressure. That will take the engine into the Noble area of 370-400 hp
And the really wild option is to import a us Duratec 3.6 V6, like Ginetta uses for the G50, it's more or less a direct fint on the gearbox, and blow it to 500 hp..... but probaly not really needed in order to get a small, nimble and drivable oldtimer with a bit of push to nail the sun-tan gouy in their Civic-R's :-)
Btw, got the ignition timing right today, and lesson learned :-/ when you use coil on plugs, and really cant get to the ignition wire (as there are no ignition wire´s) and the clever enginner figures out that the high current pulse flow back throu the +12V wire, and actually will the timing ligt trigger when you put the claw around the 12V wire...... but it will trigger on the coil charge, not the discharge, and thereby be 3ms (the dwell time) to early. Don't sound like much, but enough to alter the timing mark by 20 deg from 800-2000 rpm.... lesson learned, with COP you need to remove one coil, put a piece of wire from the coil tip to the spark plug and trigger on that wire. It did only take 2 clever engineers 4 hours to figure that out :-)
With pipercams are 290-300 possible, and we're probaly at the edge without more serious engine tuning (higher revs)
My route is to get the 250'ish with the 6-2-1-2 exhaust and the new intake (I'll post the flow figures from borth the original plenum and my own after they get measured).
If I'm going higher will it be with a rotrex or lysholm supercharger, lowering the compression a bit, stock cams and 0,7-0,9 bar pressure. That will take the engine into the Noble area of 370-400 hp
And the really wild option is to import a us Duratec 3.6 V6, like Ginetta uses for the G50, it's more or less a direct fint on the gearbox, and blow it to 500 hp..... but probaly not really needed in order to get a small, nimble and drivable oldtimer with a bit of push to nail the sun-tan gouy in their Civic-R's :-)
Btw, got the ignition timing right today, and lesson learned :-/ when you use coil on plugs, and really cant get to the ignition wire (as there are no ignition wire´s) and the clever enginner figures out that the high current pulse flow back throu the +12V wire, and actually will the timing ligt trigger when you put the claw around the 12V wire...... but it will trigger on the coil charge, not the discharge, and thereby be 3ms (the dwell time) to early. Don't sound like much, but enough to alter the timing mark by 20 deg from 800-2000 rpm.... lesson learned, with COP you need to remove one coil, put a piece of wire from the coil tip to the spark plug and trigger on that wire. It did only take 2 clever engineers 4 hours to figure that out :-)
Edited by madsvlund on Monday 15th July 22:30
I've only used emerald ecus and the timming just comes up out of the software? No timming lights! But it's always easy and simple once you have sorted the problem. Makes life interesting ??? With around 300hp of na power going up to over 7000 rpm I think morepower is really not needed with road tyres anyway ?!! I'm not looking for more yet (must be getting old).
Yes the timing get out of the VEMS ecu as well... thing is that you need to get the crank degrees from the missing tooth to TDC correct, to you know that 0deg advance in the ECU will actually hit at TDC. So you need a timing light for verification of crank sensor position.
And I agree with the power considerations, Better to have it "pretty fast" and drivable, than uncontrollable fast. Rain and poor road surface do still exist, and with a short wheelbase RWD car, can that be a handfull of it's own (specially with no power steering and lowratio rack)
And I agree with the power considerations, Better to have it "pretty fast" and drivable, than uncontrollable fast. Rain and poor road surface do still exist, and with a short wheelbase RWD car, can that be a handfull of it's own (specially with no power steering and lowratio rack)
That's the reason I'm not fitting a v8 Rain and v8 torque do not mix ( I'm glad I'm not just getting old) we have a 300hp plus frount wheel drive Williams Clio on the fleet and with the low weight etc and 888 tyres it will match most things but with a turbo engine the tyres have to be warm!!!!
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