more problems :)
more problems :)
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Lemonhead

Original Poster:

36 posts

194 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
Ahhh the joys of tvr ownership ... mind you its a lot less complicated than running a saab tid! The S1 has developed another problem. Bought it a few weeks ago. Wasnt running smooth etc. Timing was out which we adjusted on Sunday - much improvement of course. Went like a bullet around the block and cut out just before the entrance to driveway. Opened bonnet - the air intake hose was collapsed - made of 'foil' so I m guessing the pervious owner put it on to 'get by' before sale (new silicone on order)?! The petrol gauge is nt accurate so suspected no fuel. got it back to driveway and put some petrol in it & did a very temp. fix on hose. Fires for a split second and dies. Suspected fuel pump problem. Ran direct connection to pump - it was ok. ran positive direct (with negative from car) and it was ok. Looked at wiring diagram and traced back to pink relay (looking at posts Im led to believe that this is a petrol pump relay?). On wiring diag. this is marked as 'pink engine run sensor' - is this correct or have I completley got it wrong!? Anyway supply to relay ok via 25A fuse coming in on red wire. cable WB - which I assume is white/black is control signal and is dead when I put ignition on? Theres a lot of assumptions here of course. This cable goes to ignition module.
In the cars file there s a document on a toad alarm. Since the wiring is in an awful state (chock blocks everywhere) could it be that I ve disturbed something (had been looking for source of bad earth pervious to timing. Another avenue of investigation is the hose - would air leak cause this prob. since repair is poor (insulation tape wrapped around it! Anyone have some input please?

This is my 3rd S but there was a 10 year gap in ownership (why? why?!). I dont seem to get in behind steering as quickly as I did - should I a. buy an S3 (bigger door I think) or b. cod liver oil tablets? smile

Le TVR

3,097 posts

280 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
The pink "engine run sensor" is the fuel pump relay. It only activates when it sees ignition pulses via the WB cable. You would need an oscilloscope to see the signal.
Does it fire up on the key every time? If so does it die as soon as you let the key go back to the run position?

SteveOS3

503 posts

220 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
My air intake hose is patched with duct tape, awaiting silicone hoese as well, and it works fine so I think you can eliminate that from the equation.

Steve

Lemonhead

Original Poster:

36 posts

194 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
Le TVR said:
The pink "engine run sensor" is the fuel pump relay. It only activates when it sees ignition pulses via the WB cable. You would need an oscilloscope to see the signal.
Does it fire up on the key every time? If so does it die as soon as you let the key go back to the run position?
It fires up if its been standing. Once it fires it fails. If you attempt immediate restart then it will just turn over BUT prior to this problem I noticed it would not restart if I stalled. Had to wait about 30 seconds before restarting - thought this may be something to do with the 7th cold start injector? Im therefore not sure if this immediate restart problem is an entirely different problem. If i wait 30 seconds it will fire for a brief moment!

I do have oscilloscope so thats no problem. I ll set it up tonight and see whats happening.


Thank you both for your very useful comments.

Le TVR

3,097 posts

280 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
Sounds like it will only fire when the cold start injector runs. Hence the cooling time before the thermotime switch is active again.

Are you quite sure there is absolutely no air leak between the airflow meter and the throttle now?

Top Gear TVR

2,251 posts

183 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
is there a security system playing games?

S2Mike

3,065 posts

179 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
It wouldn't just be a sticking contact inside the relay, swift tap and try again.??

Lemonhead

Original Poster:

36 posts

194 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
Thanks for all the comments. I would say there is possiblity that the hose is leaking since its a bit of a bodge (until new hose arrives). Perhaps its better to fit first before fault finding any further incase symptoms change! Does anyone happen to have an ancient 'toad' alarm/demobiliser installed? Whether they could shed light on its operation. It may have been removed since I cant see a unit!

Le TVR

3,097 posts

280 months

Thursday 18th July 2013
quotequote all
Lemonhead said:
I would say there is possiblity that the hose is leaking since its a bit of a bodge
That is exactly what the symtoms are pointing towards. It's too lean to run without the temporary assistance of the cold start injector. Swap that first and then see what happens.

Lemonhead

Original Poster:

36 posts

194 months

Thursday 18th July 2013
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Thanks. Hose on order! I am away until Tuesday - watch this space!!!!

Lemonhead

Original Poster:

36 posts

194 months

Saturday 27th July 2013
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Nice blue silicon hose fitted and the S1 is now firing up as normal. Marvelous! Thankyou everyone for the help.

S2Mike

3,065 posts

179 months

Monday 29th July 2013
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Went for a blast at weekend to check the respray was ok, about 20 miles out, my S developed a bit of lumpy running/ hesitation, and when stopping for traffic, cut out, but restarted easily. Got to a suitable place to stop and let it cool before meddling under the bonnet.
Tried the wiggle connections on the AFM as a first guess, (thanks to advice from various threads on here) tried a restart and it ran without fault over the next 50 miles, either cured itself or the AFM connections were at fault. Will get them cleaned up and sealed from the weather before going for another test run.
I have also bought some cheeky blue silicone AFM hoses, just for show but may help the airseal.