New Cerbera Project - The start ........
Discussion
Hi all
Just introducing my new project. I'm new to Cerbera land but this is my second TVR having had a short spell in a Griff 500. I bought the car from a PHer/business contact at a price I am more than happy with.
The project car a few years back ....
Girls were not part of the sale!
And the car now .....
Plans for the car are a full restoration including:
Body off - Chassis strip, grit blast, repair, hot zinc & powder coat (Orange!)
New Wishbones and Bushes
New fuel and brake lines etc
Gearbox & Diff re-condition
Engine Rebuild (Spec TBC but reliability over BHP)
New/refurb Brakes
Everything mechanical inspected/refurbed/renewed as required
Full respray including a colour change (Colour TBC but Gunmetal grey is the plan)
Full retrimm including colour change (Colour TBC but 2-tone grey with orange stitching is the plan!)
Later Tuscan seats
Later style twin headlights and afterburner rear lights
Maybe Spider wheels?
Decent In Car System that must included DAB
Projects I currently have on the go include a VX220 Turbo Track Car and a Tiger Kit car. The Cerbera will not be started until the Tiger is finished and sold to both free up space and funds.
The Cerbera has tax and some MOT so I am able to use the car to get a feel of it before the strip down starts. There are a couple of urgent items that need looking at straight away! How to stop hot air coming through the vents and more important is to cure a bad vibration when braking. I don't think it is a warped disk as it is too high a frequency.
Other projects I have done:
Owned x2 Ultima GTR's
Built/helped build several other Ultima's
BMW 540 Supercharged Track Car
Tiger SuperCat
Tiger R6 Race car
Setup and run Southways Automotive ( www.southwaysautomotive.co.uk ) along with Steve_D about 3 1/2 years ago. (No longer involved)
I intend to set up a website and maintain a blog of the project. I'll also spend far too much time in hear annoying you lot with silly questions! This project will be a slow starter whilst the Tiger is finished but will hopefully start in earnest come the autumn.
Just introducing my new project. I'm new to Cerbera land but this is my second TVR having had a short spell in a Griff 500. I bought the car from a PHer/business contact at a price I am more than happy with.
The project car a few years back ....
Girls were not part of the sale!
And the car now .....
Plans for the car are a full restoration including:
Body off - Chassis strip, grit blast, repair, hot zinc & powder coat (Orange!)
New Wishbones and Bushes
New fuel and brake lines etc
Gearbox & Diff re-condition
Engine Rebuild (Spec TBC but reliability over BHP)
New/refurb Brakes
Everything mechanical inspected/refurbed/renewed as required
Full respray including a colour change (Colour TBC but Gunmetal grey is the plan)
Full retrimm including colour change (Colour TBC but 2-tone grey with orange stitching is the plan!)
Later Tuscan seats
Later style twin headlights and afterburner rear lights
Maybe Spider wheels?
Decent In Car System that must included DAB
Projects I currently have on the go include a VX220 Turbo Track Car and a Tiger Kit car. The Cerbera will not be started until the Tiger is finished and sold to both free up space and funds.
The Cerbera has tax and some MOT so I am able to use the car to get a feel of it before the strip down starts. There are a couple of urgent items that need looking at straight away! How to stop hot air coming through the vents and more important is to cure a bad vibration when braking. I don't think it is a warped disk as it is too high a frequency.
Other projects I have done:
Owned x2 Ultima GTR's
Built/helped build several other Ultima's
BMW 540 Supercharged Track Car
Tiger SuperCat
Tiger R6 Race car
Setup and run Southways Automotive ( www.southwaysautomotive.co.uk ) along with Steve_D about 3 1/2 years ago. (No longer involved)
I intend to set up a website and maintain a blog of the project. I'll also spend far too much time in hear annoying you lot with silly questions! This project will be a slow starter whilst the Tiger is finished but will hopefully start in earnest come the autumn.
Good Luck, sounds like a long climb ahead!
As for brake vibration, I'm sure there will be others who will have their opinion but so far I've come across 3 possible causes:
1) Warped disc (which you've already mentioned)
2) Worn drag link bushes on the front lower wishbone assembly
3) Early cerbs have brake callipers that can seize the inboard pad - mine did and allowed the inboard face of the disc to corrode causing a nasty vibration. This might explain the higher frequency that you allude to as you it would/could occur more than once per wheel revolution.
Mine was picked up during my first service and was explained thusly:
"The calliper body is aluminium with a steel shim that the brake pad back plate bears onto. If left un-serviced (remember it's racing derived kit) you can get galvanic corrosion between the aluminium and steel parts. The resulting 'powdering' of the aluminium pushes up under the steel shim and binds it against the brake pad backing plate, causing the inboard pad to be ineffective."
How accurate all of that is I can't be sure, but mechanically/psychically it makes sense, and the work done to mine solved the issue. If you are experiencing less than expected braking effort, I'd definitely look at this!
Regards,
Olly
As for brake vibration, I'm sure there will be others who will have their opinion but so far I've come across 3 possible causes:
1) Warped disc (which you've already mentioned)
2) Worn drag link bushes on the front lower wishbone assembly
3) Early cerbs have brake callipers that can seize the inboard pad - mine did and allowed the inboard face of the disc to corrode causing a nasty vibration. This might explain the higher frequency that you allude to as you it would/could occur more than once per wheel revolution.
Mine was picked up during my first service and was explained thusly:
"The calliper body is aluminium with a steel shim that the brake pad back plate bears onto. If left un-serviced (remember it's racing derived kit) you can get galvanic corrosion between the aluminium and steel parts. The resulting 'powdering' of the aluminium pushes up under the steel shim and binds it against the brake pad backing plate, causing the inboard pad to be ineffective."
How accurate all of that is I can't be sure, but mechanically/psychically it makes sense, and the work done to mine solved the issue. If you are experiencing less than expected braking effort, I'd definitely look at this!
Regards,
Olly
Storer said:
Steve D is going to be busy.....
Paul
I have a special direct line in which will be 'glowing!' Paul
This is a home project. As said above, one or two other builds & rebuilds to get out of the way before this one can start properly. Because it has Tax & MOT I can use it in the meantime. Nothing better than getting to know a car and any issues before pulling it apart.
Paul.B said:
I have a special direct line in which will be 'glowing!'
This is a home project. As said above, one or two other builds & rebuilds to get out of the way before this one can start properly. Because it has Tax & MOT I can use it in the meantime. Nothing better than getting to know a car and any issues before pulling it apart.
Very true but the trouble is it will probably lead to a full rebuild. I don't think these cars were designed to last too long!!!This is a home project. As said above, one or two other builds & rebuilds to get out of the way before this one can start properly. Because it has Tax & MOT I can use it in the meantime. Nothing better than getting to know a car and any issues before pulling it apart.
My optimistic estimate of what my car will need to get it to pristine condition is £20K
It may have to wait until it is worth the cost.
Paul
Storer said:
Very true but the trouble is it will probably lead to a full rebuild. I don't think these cars were designed to last too long!!!
My optimistic estimate of what my car will need to get it to pristine condition is £20K
It may have to wait until it is worth the cost.
Paul
Morning Paul. A full rebuild has always been the intention with this project. I want to end up with MY perfect Cerbera at the end. Some may not like all I have planed but hey ho! I was very lucky to find a usable car for the price I paid. Although I was prepared to buy a non-runner, this way I will get to know the car before hand.My optimistic estimate of what my car will need to get it to pristine condition is £20K
It may have to wait until it is worth the cost.
Paul
How is The Beastie' project looking? Are you going to run a thread somewhere? Ultima forum or Readers Cars?
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