Clutch problem ??
Clutch problem ??
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hot metal

Original Poster:

2,019 posts

223 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
I have had some problems selecting some gears, this first occurred a couple of weeks ago but went away quite quickly, I hoped for the best & thought no more of it. Traveled to Goodwood & back, 400 miles, no problem except reverse was difficult sometimes. Then last Friday as I went to leave work I could not find a gear, faffed about for a bit, found 1st & set off, no problem, all the gears coming easily. No problem the next day either apart from changing down into second was a bit hard work, only did 5 or 6 miles though. I didn`t use it Sunday or Monday then this morning what a pig , I didn`t think I would get it out of the garage, I was late so made an extra effort, bit of a crunch into reverse & then fine. Got to work & reverse was not too bad, not easy but then it never was.
When the car is moving & warmed up it is ok , but from cold or setting off, difficult is the only way to describe it. Thinking clutch obviously but I`m not sure why it just doesn`t get worse instead of coming & going like it does. Any ideas??
This is the older Rover box by the way.

carsy

3,019 posts

195 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
Assuming clutch, master and slave cylinders are in full working order, try an oil change. Go for Mobil 1 0w40 engine oil and Molyslip gearbox treatment. This concoction has been recommended for troublesome LT77 boxes. If you do reasearch you will find loads of people have gone this route with good results, many of the Wedge lads have done this myself included with my Griff with great results.

Have a read here of what honestjohntoo says. He`s the chap that came up with it.

http://www.track-days.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

WOO5IE

966 posts

227 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
Check the clutch fluid level first. Its cheapest and the easiest and probably the most likely

hot metal

Original Poster:

2,019 posts

223 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
carsy said:
Assuming clutch, master and slave cylinders are in full working order, try an oil change. Go for Mobil 1 0w40 engine oil and Molyslip gearbox treatment. This concoction has been recommended for troublesome LT77 boxes. If you do reasearch you will find loads of people have gone this route with good results, many of the Wedge lads have done this myself included with my Griff with great results.

Have a read here of what honestjohntoo says. He`s the chap that came up with it.

http://www.track-days.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Interesting read, I changed the gearbox oil when I changed the engine oil just over 2 weeks ago. I didn`t use any thing special though. This was straight after the first signs of a problem & it went away, back with a vengence now so may try this idea, thanks for the post.

hot metal

Original Poster:

2,019 posts

223 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
WOO5IE said:
Check the clutch fluid level first. Its cheapest and the easiest and probably the most likely
Will do this too..

pb450

1,305 posts

190 months

Wednesday 24th July 2013
quotequote all
WOO5IE said:
Check the clutch fluid level first. Its cheapest and the easiest and probably the most likely
+1. I had exactly the same problem 2 weeks ago. Leaking slave & master cylinders, reservoir was nearly empty! Fluid level doesn't get checked as regularly as it should due to faff with cover seal under bonnet. Fluid quietly drips down pedal and disappears into the carpet, never to be seen again.

I bet this is the cause of your problem.

PB

Tyre Tread

10,688 posts

246 months

Wednesday 24th July 2013
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If you are really luck, this=> http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

250+ miles later and still OK

(I've just jinxed myself hacevn't I?)

hot metal

Original Poster:

2,019 posts

223 months

Wednesday 24th July 2013
quotequote all
G
Tyre Tread said:
If you are really luck, this=> http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

250+ miles later and still OK

(I've just jinxed myself hacevn't I?)
Er ,yes, we'll,,Er. bugger, it was empty, don,t know why I didn't check it before, no sign of the fluid either, Can the engine heat boil it off?

Tyre Tread

10,688 posts

246 months

Wednesday 24th July 2013
quotequote all
hot metal said:
Er ,yes, we'll,,Er. bugger, it was empty, don,t know why I didn't check it before, no sign of the fluid either, Can the engine heat boil it off?
Nope. It should be a sealed system but the fluid must go somewhere. Perhaps a VERY slow leak somewhere but I can't find it on mine if there is one so fill the reservoir, bleed system and see what happens.

hot metal

Original Poster:

2,019 posts

223 months

Thursday 25th July 2013
quotequote all
Seems fine now, I`m going to keep a really close eye on it, maybe as job for the winter if it allows wink, thanks for the posts, been a big help seeing as my brain was stuck in neutral.

Major Fallout

5,278 posts

261 months

Friday 26th July 2013
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How strange I have just had to top up and beed mine this morning.

It was starting to get notchy getting into first.

QBee

22,493 posts

174 months

Friday 26th July 2013
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Major Fallout said:
How strange I have just had to top up and beed mine this morning.

It was starting to get notchy getting into first.
Mine's always been notchy, in any gear it feels like. Perhaps I need to be a little bleeder too?
It's the problem with having nothing to compare with - you end up thinking "they all do that, Sir".

Rugbyfester

180 posts

165 months

Monday 29th July 2013
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I am glad I read this - I thought I need a new clutch after problems this weekend and was looking to get it all priced up, but reading this I am sure my problem is the same and must be a Master/Slave cylinder issue.... It just went wierd since friday evening peddle not feeling right and only bitting 1 or 2 inches from the bottom. Will have to investigate now if its the Slave or the Master cylinder gone, I didnt notice anything in the drivers foot well.

Tyre Tread

10,688 posts

246 months

Monday 29th July 2013
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I bet the master cylinder reservoir is just empty like mine was - see above.

I checked a friend's Chimaera for this at the weekend. He wasn't having problems but he had never checked the fluid - Guess what - almost empty!

Fill and bleed out old fuid. Please report back on your findings.

I wonder if TVR 'specilaists' have been charging for new cluches for years when all they did was fill up the clutch master cylinder reservoir and bleed the system? smile

QBee

22,493 posts

174 months

Monday 29th July 2013
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My clutch was only changed in April - no, not an expensive job, as the engine was already out for an engine change. Asked if it needed changing, TVR guy whipped it off the engine, glanced at it and frisbee'd it into the oil drum that serves as a bin. It had done 73,000 miles. Since then the clutch point has been near the floor, and no, he cannot adjust it, it will come higher in time.

I would guess my notchy gear change is a linkage in need of some greasing. The bad ones are fifth to fourth when i have been in fifth at speed for some time and cannot find fourth, and getting reverse when the engine is cold (yes, I know they all do that, but mine is particularly bad at the moment).

Tyre Tread

10,688 posts

246 months

Monday 29th July 2013
quotequote all
Qbee, just check that there is sufficient fluid. The symptons you are describing of a dragging clutch are exactly whet I was experiencing.

Although, thinking about it, if the bite point is at the top then it shouldn't be a fluid issue.
scratchchin

QBee

22,493 posts

174 months

Monday 29th July 2013
quotequote all
Tyre Tread said:
Qbee, just check that there is sufficient fluid. The symptons you are describing of a dragging clutch are exactly whet I was experiencing.

Although, thinking about it, if the bite point is at the top then it shouldn't be a fluid issue.
scratchchin
Top? Bottom? My bite point is with the clutch pedal almost fully depressed to the floor, not nice and near the top like it used to be. Sometimes I don't quite press it far enough and the car complains. I will check the fluid level.

Tyre Tread

10,688 posts

246 months

Monday 29th July 2013
quotequote all
If the bite point is low as you say then it will be either:
1. lack of fluid
2. Air in system

If 2 bleed system.
If 1 fill and bleed system

If you know that the system was refilled recently (and last April is recently) then ask yourself where all the fuid went. Possibly all over the drivers side carpet = will need new seal in or a new master cylinder or if nothing in the carpets then probably slave cylinder needs new seals/ replacing.

If in doubt, after cheking the carpets and finidng nothing then refill, bleed and monitor/hope.

occasionaluse

78 posts

238 months

Monday 29th July 2013
quotequote all
mine was doing this - fluid going low - then the pivot pushed through the release arm (fork) - common problem - fitted new one now perfect again. Must have been slowly pushing through until it finally went.

Tyre Tread

10,688 posts

246 months

Monday 29th July 2013
quotequote all
That would make sense due to the increased travel required to move the fork.

I checked the fork on mine and looks OK so whne you get under to bleed it, pop the big rubber bung out of the beel housing (if yours has one) and check the fork.

Good point though!