Have I experienced the hot starter motor problem ?
Discussion
Although the weather has been rubbish I had a brill drive this morning. A bit on the A14 and then the B roads - taking care feeding in the power on the wet roads it was still fantastic to listen to the V8 and a touch a wheelspin 
On the way back had to stop at the supermarket for her in doors. Whilst daughter was in the shop I started fiddling around with the steering wheel adjuster.
When I went to start her up there was absolutely nothing from the starter motor....ignition on ok, fuel pump primed but nothing...not even the flat battery noise !
Tried fiddling around with fuses / relays / steering adjustment but still nothing. In the end bump started it as the car park was on a downhill slop.
When I got home same thing happened...nothing... but I held the key round for a split second longer and hey presto it burst into life
Having searched other threads it looks like to hot starter motor problem or dodgy ignition switch
Any other suggestions gratefully received
cheers
Chris
On the way back had to stop at the supermarket for her in doors. Whilst daughter was in the shop I started fiddling around with the steering wheel adjuster.
When I went to start her up there was absolutely nothing from the starter motor....ignition on ok, fuel pump primed but nothing...not even the flat battery noise !
Tried fiddling around with fuses / relays / steering adjustment but still nothing. In the end bump started it as the car park was on a downhill slop.
When I got home same thing happened...nothing... but I held the key round for a split second longer and hey presto it burst into life
Having searched other threads it looks like to hot starter motor problem or dodgy ignition switch
Any other suggestions gratefully received
cheers
Chris
sounds very much like a typical hot start problem. 
Had the same problem myself about 18 months ago, removed starter motor, stripped it down and gave it a thorough degreasing and also degreased the solonoid.
Cleaned all the connetions and purchased a small sheet of heat shield wrap, and taped around the starter and solonoid before refitting, and the problem has not happened since. When you see how close the starter is to the manifold,its hardly supprising, the electrics get cooked.
It may be worth a try before spending out on a new starter, you have nothing to lose.
Cleaned all the connetions and purchased a small sheet of heat shield wrap, and taped around the starter and solonoid before refitting, and the problem has not happened since. When you see how close the starter is to the manifold,its hardly supprising, the electrics get cooked.
It may be worth a try before spending out on a new starter, you have nothing to lose.
Just yesterday I fitted David (mod-wise) beer’s Solenoid Relay Kit to solve this very problem. The kit is very reasonably priced, only took a few minutes to fit and is well made up, it comes with a built in tester. This kit isn’t actually on his website yet so drop him a line and he’ll tell you how much etc.
I haven’t had cause to try it in anger yet, but I need petrol tomorrow so I’ll soon find out. If it works and I’ve no reason to doubt it will, then I just cant believe that some so called experts still recommend replacing the starter motor (or am I being unfair in that they don’t know about it).
Cheers,
Simon.
I haven’t had cause to try it in anger yet, but I need petrol tomorrow so I’ll soon find out. If it works and I’ve no reason to doubt it will, then I just cant believe that some so called experts still recommend replacing the starter motor (or am I being unfair in that they don’t know about it).
Cheers,
Simon.
peter miller said:
Had the same problem myself about 18 months ago, removed starter motor, stripped it down and gave it a thorough degreasing and also degreased the solonoid.
Cleaned all the connetions and purchased a small sheet of heat shield wrap, and taped around the starter and solonoid before refitting, and the problem has not happened since. When you see how close the starter is to the manifold,its hardly supprising, the electrics get cooked.
It may be worth a try before spending out on a new starter, you have nothing to lose.
Spot on Peter.
One of the Surrey contigent is a fairly practical type and when faced with the same problem, he felt he should look at the old unit before replacing it. He said the starter motor looked virtually new in its condition, so he disassembled the solenoid to find that the rod that moves within the solenoid is a virtually air tight fit. He extracted it and lightly sanded it before reassembly. He's not had a problem since and this is the path I'll be following should I have this problem at some point.
Cheers,
Steve.
Chaps
I had this problem and it got progressively worse to the point where I was afraid to switch the engine off. It could take from 10mins to an hour to start again. I bought the starter moter mod from mod-wise.com (David Beer) and it fixed the problem completely took 10 mins to fit! Well worth going down this route and a lot cheaper.
Dave
I had this problem and it got progressively worse to the point where I was afraid to switch the engine off. It could take from 10mins to an hour to start again. I bought the starter moter mod from mod-wise.com (David Beer) and it fixed the problem completely took 10 mins to fit! Well worth going down this route and a lot cheaper.
Dave
simon.b said:
Just yesterday I fitted David (mod-wise) beer’s Solenoid Relay Kit to solve this very problem. The kit is very reasonably priced, only took a few minutes to fit and is well made up, it comes with a built in tester. This kit isn’t actually on his website yet so drop him a line and he’ll tell you how much etc.
I haven’t had cause to try it in anger yet, but I need petrol tomorrow so I’ll soon find out. If it works and I’ve no reason to doubt it will, then I just cant believe that some so called experts still recommend replacing the starter motor (or am I being unfair in that they don’t know about it).
Cheers,
Simon.
I always advise fitting a new motor (or recon if funds are tight) at this point, primarily because new motors have a warranty, if you do a mod on the existing motor and it subsequently exhibits the same fault then you're gonna be fixing it again for free and possibly fitting anew motor anyway .. if you fit one from the start (!) then at laest you're covered on the motor warrantty. on the new one I always wrap the solonoid and also the adjacent manifold branches if the cars is used in hot weather (ie one from the continent).. so by fitting anew motor the garage may actually have your best interests at heart ..
>> Edited by joospeed on Monday 18th October 10:29
I fitted the Mod-Wise relay kit two weeks ago, having had exactly the problems you describe... Now, no problems at all!
It seems to make a lot of sense given that when you turn the key there's no load on the battery at all if it's doing the hot-start thang (as evidenced by no dimming of alternator light etc etc). So the current doesn't seem to reach the motor at all, hence sticky solenoid ideal explanation. As I understand it, Range Rovers with the V8 have this second relay factory fitted - the voltage drop across the ignition barrel and immobiliser circuits seems to be enough that there's not enough juice left to move a reluctant (cooked) heavy-duty solenoid.
The kit's only about £15, which is a lot less than a new starter motor every two years...
Andrew
It seems to make a lot of sense given that when you turn the key there's no load on the battery at all if it's doing the hot-start thang (as evidenced by no dimming of alternator light etc etc). So the current doesn't seem to reach the motor at all, hence sticky solenoid ideal explanation. As I understand it, Range Rovers with the V8 have this second relay factory fitted - the voltage drop across the ignition barrel and immobiliser circuits seems to be enough that there's not enough juice left to move a reluctant (cooked) heavy-duty solenoid.
The kit's only about £15, which is a lot less than a new starter motor every two years...
Andrew
joospeed said:
I always advise fitting a new motor (or recon if funds are tight) at this point, primarily because new motors have a warranty, if you do a mod on the existing motor and it subsequently exhibits the same fault then you're gonna be fixing it again for free and possibly fitting anew motor anyway .. if you fit one from the start (!) then at laest you're covered on the motor warrantty. on the new one I always wrap the solonoid and also the adjacent manifold branches if the cars is used in hot weather (ie one from the continent).. so by fitting anew motor the garage may actually have your best interests at heart ..
>> Edited by joospeed on Monday 18th October 10:29
In my case that would be over £200 a year in starter motors. My Rangies have covered over 120k without any starter issues, and the CAT is directly by the side of the solenoid. The solenoid will draw 11-12 amps, giving it 6-7 is not enough. The lights get a relay and even the horn, so why did TVR decide to remove it ? So even if you decide to get a new starter, still get the relay put back in( and there is only 1 needed). But thats like buying new tyres when all they need is pumping up. There is no question of dealers not having you best interest at heart, of course they do.
I would like to apologise for my comments on the previous posts, It was not my intention to malign anyone, in particular Joolz for whom I have the greatest respect.
We all need the specialists and without them I know I for one would not be able to afford to keep my Griff. I often find myself getting carried away with the chatty sort of style used on here and it doesn’t always come out in print the way it was intended.
For anyone still interested (and if you’ll still talk to me) the problem wasn’t that simple, I’ve started a new thread on the Griff Forum.
Cheers,
Simon.
We all need the specialists and without them I know I for one would not be able to afford to keep my Griff. I often find myself getting carried away with the chatty sort of style used on here and it doesn’t always come out in print the way it was intended.
For anyone still interested (and if you’ll still talk to me) the problem wasn’t that simple, I’ve started a new thread on the Griff Forum.
Cheers,
Simon.
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