MOT fail 1998 TD5 110 CSW chassis corrosion

[lost in espace]

Just failed the MOT for this corrosion. Far worse on one side than the other. The worse side is pictured. My crossmember is not too bad, but a bit rusty in parts and the little reinforcing crossmembers have become detached at one end. The MOT station have not asked for any crossmember repairs.

I can get it repaired by a local welding company for £120.

Is this the right route to go down, or am I better off getting a crossmember and extensions fitted? Blacksheep on ebay sells a great looking xmember for £160 and can weld it up too, have asked him for a price.

Caught me out, I had no idea!

[anonymous-user]

I suspect if you patch that you'll be patching it somewhere else in the near future, then somewhere else.......then somewhere else.....
I'd be worried about the condition of the rest of the chassis based on the state of that bit.
Depends if it's a keeper, or if you simply want a ticket so you can get shot.

[paintman]

You might find this link of interest. Best to ignore some of the twoddle.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/hd-rear-cross-mem...

[anonymous-user]

Rear crossmember is an easy fix. Further in to the chassis makes life a little more interesting........

[lost in espace]

Interestingly just pulled the naff bumperettes off and one end of the crossmember has holes and has lost the inside vertical plate. And I found another big hole underneath the rear of the chassis rail. All sortable I suppose.

If I don't go down the route of a full chassis change I will be sorting a new crossmember from Pressbrake/Clive/Blacksheep for sure.

Edited by lost in espace on Wednesday 31st July 20:31

[anonymous-user]

Looks like you need a new 1/4 chassis which replaces everything from the rear spring hangers aft.

[camel_landy]

Yeah, tough call that one. The existing chassis is 'sortable' but you need to be certain the rest of the current chassis is worth saving.

TBH - I would seriously look into costing up a chassis swap as the extra cost may well be outweighed by the additional benefits, especially if it is going to be a 'keeper'.

M

[lost in espace]

camel_landy said:

Yeah, tough call that one. The existing chassis is 'sortable' but you need to be certain the rest of the current chassis is worth saving.

TBH - I would seriously look into costing up a chassis swap as the extra cost may well be outweighed by the additional benefits, especially if it is going to be a 'keeper'.

M

Thanks. The corrosion in the main chassis rail was inside to outside, and the steel has de-laminated and lost all strength. How am I going to tell if the chassis is any good towards the front, the MOT tester used a hammer and presumably the rest is ok. I keep seeing descriptions of how people are painting and wax oiling the outside of the chassis but this is not where they seem to rust from.

I suspect as parts this may now have a value greater than a complete vehicle. I paid £9k 3 years ago, I am seriously considering breaking it when/if it fails its next mot. As it stands I doubt its worth more than £5k, and maybe £6-7k as parts. I really can't believe I have just typed that! Without a galvy chassis I doubt I would buy another Disco or Defender. I might just cash in my chips, get the holes sorted and buy a D3 with the extra I would have to pay for a galvy chassis.

[cpas]

There are places that will do a full chassis swap 'from' just over £2k, which might be worth a punt.

http://www.tonks4x4.com/customisation-from-tonks4x...

Or Marslands do a chassis for a 110 for £1235 + VAT

http://www.marslands.com/prices.html

Probably worth it in the long run if it's a keeper. Generally Disco chassis do not rust the same as Defender ones.

[camel_landy]

lost in espace said:

Thanks. The corrosion in the main chassis rail was inside to outside, and the steel has de-laminated and lost all strength. How am I going to tell if the chassis is any good towards the front, the MOT tester used a hammer and presumably the rest is ok.

You sort of need to do the same...

...the hammer technique works nicely, you just need to listen out for the change in tone between solid metal and 'rust'.

M