Temp sender for v6 with VDO dials

[RichChef]

Does anyone know what the correct sender part number is for the 2.8 v6 with the VDO instruments?

I've tried a number of them and they all have resistance values which are too low resulting in my running temp showing as about 140-150 degrees C. I'm confident the temp is fine but this does not give scope for checking the temp... The gauge starts of reading 45 before I start the engine

Now I have just finished replacing all the fuel lines and the fuel pump I would just like to have a little confidence in the water temp

Rich

[wild rover]

Check out jg [e-mail]. They are auto marine specialists. Oil pressure sender unit cost £20 plus £3 postage.
Best of luck.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate...Thats whats happening with mine after i changed to just a standard capri sender...I have Stewart Warner gauges and have i think finally found one that matches the gauge...Which is what is needed...Mine seems to go on the gauge face readings..i:e 280..try to locate one that matches your gauge..Demon tweeks sell them but i couldnt find a huge range..I found these though..Hope it helps...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=v...
Unfortunately they are not in england but i had to order mine from the states..Sometimes its a better option.

[RichChef]

Hi zig, that company had come up in an ebay search but I was hoping there might be a uk based option. Still good to know that international orders work.

The last one unfortunately snapped in the block so I need to have one to hand before I take (or I pay someone to take, I have bad luck when it comes to extracting things) the remains out

[mrzigazaga]

I might have a spare top water inlet..The pipe was a little corroded but was ok..It could be sleeved...Does yours only have the thermotime and water temperature sender in it?...Mine has a thermotime switch in it that was working when i removed it..I will dig it out a bit later from the garage and have a look...I wont charge for it but would like an exchange...Cheers...Ziga

[RichChef]

That's the type I have, I'll give it a go at replacing in-situ first tho. Figure I have a better chance of getting the sender out than the whole bit off. If that fails the an exchange unit is a great second option, Cheer zig

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate..On my way home i popped into my garage and found the inlet housing..One of the ears is missing on the housing but could be held down with a large washer..I do remember repairing it but the ford garage has obviously knocked it off and lost it....I would suggest getting yourself some deblock oil..It really is great stuff..Its not cheap but worth it...If you get stuck you are more than welcome to try the spare inlet housing..Or spray yourself with the oil.....Cheers...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&ai=CIU_y13P-...

[mrzigazaga]

Well received the Temperature sender from Summit racing but the length is too long and the thread is too wide...Bit of a disapointment...is there a way of putting some sort of resistor between the sender and the gauge so that it reads correctly?...Cheers...Ziga

[adam quantrill]

Yes in fact that's what TVR did on the 350i (depending on the gauge) a small resistor in series to set it to read correct on 90C.

[mrzigazaga]

Thanks Adam..I have Stewart Warner gauges..How do you determine what is needed...Cheers...Ziga

[adam quantrill]

You could either get a 1k pot (say from Maplin) and then run it up to temperature and maybe use an infrared thermometer to check the temperature near the sensor. Put the pot in series and adjust unto the gauge reads correct. Then take the pot off and measure the pot resistance with your DVM. Then buy a resistor nearest what you measure and put that in series. Tiv used to put the resistor on a blade end and socket so you can stick it into the loom easy right near the sender.

The alternative is to buy a selection of resistors and use trial and error instead of adjusting the pot. I would buy 47 ohm, 68, 82, 100, 120, 150, 220, 270, 330. They are quite cheap.

[mrzigazaga]

Thanks for that mate..Dont forget my electrical capabilities are poo!..I understand what you are saying as regards to the pot but i wouldnt know how to wire it in?..I might pop to maplins tomorrow and grab a selection of resistors though..I have a good friend who knows electrickery better than me..Although i will have to wait until delilah comes back from her last..(Hopefully) bit of engine work...Cheers...Ziga

[RCK974X]

Calibrations -

The SW gauges on mine seem to be calibrated around the same as the Smiths guages, but not quite the same. Using a Smiths sender gives a reading which is a bit too high.

To make the gauge read lower, put a resistor in series with the sender (i.e. splice the wire) to make the sender seem like a higher resistance. Given that the Smiths senders are 50 ohms (or so) when hot, you probably only need 10-15 ohms to make a noticeable difference. You will need something like a 3 watt version as it handles a bit of current.

To make the gauge read higher, put a resistor ACROSS the sender (i.e. from Earth to sender connector) to make sender appear to have lower resistance. You need a higher resistance as it's in parallel , I'd guess at around 100 or 200 ohms to start with..... this will affect the COLD reading quite a lot though.

Smiths gauges are voltage dependent (hot wire), so you can also fiddle with supply voltage with a little regulator (LM317 are good), but my SW gauges don't seem to change much with different supply voltages, so they probably aren't hot wire types.

Edited by RCK974X on Friday 9th August 00:15